/ First Rope

GuyGotGuns 30 Jul 2019

Hey all - first time posting on here.

I used to do a fair bit of climbing as a kid (only outdoor sport and top roping) & after shattering my kneecap and not being able to walk for a year, a mate got me into (indoor and outdoor) bouldering after a hiatus of 20 odd years.  I've been doing a bit of top roping & am starting back into sport climbing. 

I want to get a rope, but seeing as it's just a first one am not bothered about spending a lot on it.  I'm happy to fork out for good quick-draws however and am looking at the DMM Alpha Sports.  

I'm thinking of getting the Symond 10mm or 9.5mm from Decathlon.  I've heard fairly good things about them considering the price (£70 roughly) but wanted to ask two separate things (I've done my homework, and of course opinions are subjective, but help would be appreciated).

Firstly, I'd like to go for the 9.5mm as it's considerably lighter.  I also like lime green, but don't judge me for that.  Opinions seem to be split on whether this is good for a first rope or not.  Thoughts appreciated.

Secondly, I'm torn between 60 and 70m.  I'm veering towards the 60m as I'd prefer to keep the weight down for hiking and travelling.  

All help appreciated.

Cheers,

G

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tom_in_edinburgh 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

Depends what belay device you use and whether you are going to use it intensively inside or every now and then outside.

If you are using a Gri-Gri it can be a pain in the arse with a thicker, less flexible rope because it will keep locking and you need to hold the cam to pay out.

If you do fall practice or laps inside you'll trash a thin rope fast.

I like 60m 9.8mm Edelrid ropes, there's usually a deal and they pair well with a GriGri.

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GuyGotGuns 30 Jul 2019
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Thanks Tom.  So I belay with a Black Diamond ATC Guide (as do my friends).  I have no current intention of getting a Grigri.  I'm going to be predominantly lead climbing indoors (I live in London) but am heading to Granada in a few weeks, and will have occasional trips to Wales, Dorset and maybe Southern Sandstone.

As it's a first rope, I'd rather save money so am happy getting the Decathlon versions, so you think the 10mm would be a better option than the 9.5mm then?

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tom_in_edinburgh 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

I don't know the Black Diamond rope, but if it was me I'd get a 10mm because the 9.5 will get trashed faster indoors.

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Hooo 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

If you're predominantly climbing indoors, I would recommend buying a short wall rope now and then the long one when you need it. I got a 25m 10mm from Rock and run for £20. Saves wear on your more expensive long rope and saves all that coiling of a 60m rope for a 10m route.

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GuyGotGuns 30 Jul 2019
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

The Black Diamond ATC Guide is my belay device ( relating to your belay device comment https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/climbing-belay-rappel/atc-guide-BD620079_cfg.html )

The rope I was looking to get was from Decathlon, Symond Brand.  This 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/rock-10mm-x-60m-blue-id_8388180.html

or this

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/95-mm-x-60-m-cliff-green-id_8495199.html

Fair point on the 9.5mm.  Maybe getting something a little tougher is a good idea.  I was trying to save on weight, but perhaps you can't have everything.

Post edited at 12:31
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Iamgregp 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

I know you want to save on weight and cost, but if, sometime in the future, you go to some of the popular sport climbing destinations abroad they often have routes in the 30 to 35 meter range so I'd get the 70 to stop you having to buy a whole new rope in the future (which i did).  The extra cost and weight between a 60 and a 70 is nowt compared to a whole new rope.

I'd echo what others have said and buy another short rope (25-30ish) for use exclusively indoor - stops the rope you use indoor getting dirty, nicked by sharp rocks and saves loads of extra flaking at the wall.  If you use a rope exclusively indoor it'll last for a good amount of time.

Actually, come to think of it how long have I been using my indoor rope for?!?!? 

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brianjcooper 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

I bought a 30m Beal Karma rope, 9.8mm weighing 61g per metre, from Go Outdoors to use indoors, but have replaced it with a 50m, same weight, so I can use it outdoors too. They sell it in various lengths and it handles like a half rope and works well with my BD ATC guide device. The Beal website shows their ropes and user information.

Hope this helps.  

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evilscoop 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

Current fave...

BD 9.9 60m is my general day to day

Its pretty cheap and usable for most things..

Stick with the thicker more durable ropes for day to day..

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GridNorth 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

Just to add a little more confusion to the mix and to reinforce the argument that one rope cannot do it all, many routes in Europe require 80 metre ropes.  A tough, hard wearing, heavy weight 80 metre rope is very impractical and really does need a much lighter rope for carrying, coiling and air transport.

Al

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Paul Hy 30 Jul 2019
In reply to GridNorth:

the op is fairly new to it so unlikely to need 80m rope although 70 is the norm now for Costa Blanca etc. Some indoor walls do need 50m rope (e.g. Stockport/Sheffeild) but generally a 30m is good for most which is what i have and 70m for outside though i dont do much sport in uk.

  

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In reply to GuyGotGuns:

Those quick draws are expensive! i'd get quickdraws that are half the price and get twice as many... or some other kit.

but its your cash

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GuyGotGuns 31 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns: Great advice everyone.  Thanks. 

With regards to the rope, I opted to get a cheaper 35m, 10mm rope from Decathlon, so that I have a dedicated indoor climbing rope (or something that wouldn't be too weighty to take to shorter outdoor routes). 

I'll get a second 70m rope that's lighter for travelling as it won't see as much use I can probably afford to go a bit thinner.  

What I am finding difficult is getting any info on the rough lengths of routes to work out rope length requirements.  I've got the main climbing guide for Andalucia, and several for the UK.  Only one of them gives an estimated height.  Anyway, that's a separate issue.

Thanks for the help everyone.

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FlyingHigh 31 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

You missed out on a load of brand new Alpha Sport quickdraws I was selling. I only have 8 single Alpha Sport bent gate crabs left, as well as an assortment on new krabs.

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SamR 31 Jul 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns: 

> What I am finding difficult is getting any info on the rough lengths of routes to work out rope length requirements..

I live in Granada so can give you a rough idea of route length. Not sure where exactly you are planning to climb but I'll assume Los Cahorros / Alfacar / Los Vados.

70m will get you up (and, more importantly, back down) most single pitch stuff here. A few 35m+ in Los Cahorros but the guide book has lengths for most of the routes there. The main reason you'd want an 80 would be if you're planning on doing any of the multipitch routes in Los Vados (and you should - it's the best time of year right now!).

If you're struggling with finding local guide books / topos PM me. 

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GuyGotGuns 01 Aug 2019
In reply to FlyingHigh:

Aaah man!  Bad timing.

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GuyGotGuns 01 Aug 2019
In reply to SamR:

Amazing - cheers Sam!  As my friends will have a baby and I'll have two kids with us, we might be pushed to climb anyway (the heat also being a big factor), but that's a very kind offer.  Just out of interest, for the sake of reducing pack weight/space, are there many short routes in los cahorros that would be doable with a 35m rope?  My eldest daughter is 7, so I was also wondering if there were some easy short routes for that reason.

Post edited at 10:38
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SamR 01 Aug 2019
In reply to GuyGotGuns:

No worries. In Cahorros I can't think of anything that short (and nothing too easy either!)

But Sector Dablam in Alfacar (20 minutes from Granada) has a bunch of short, easy routes (IV and V) which I think are probably doable on a 35m (though check / tie a knot etc.)

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Shaunhaynes99 02 Aug 2019
In reply to brianjcooper:

I got one of these. But in 40m lenght.   No issues  from me 

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GuyGotGuns 05 Aug 2019
In reply to SamR:

Thanks Sam - I saw some easier routes on the guide in Alfacar, so that looks promising.  To be fair, it's mainly for my 7 year old and my friend's 9 year old so that would be ideal.

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Shaunhaynes99 16 Aug 2019

 Sorry but off topic but it there much  bouldering put there, the inlaws live about  an hour from almeria. Seem I can find load of sport routes but  as I wouldn't have anyone to belay me. I need to find some. Boulders to play on..

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SamR 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Shaunhaynes99:

Nope not much. 

There's 2 places in Granada (one pretty much in the centre) with low quality bouldering: la cueva del moro and caballitos del rey. But they aren't great. 

There's some good DWS in Quentar (but not reccomendable alone).

There's really good bouldering in Villanueva del Rosario, but that's a bit of a drive. 

It's easy to find partners here though for roped stuff. 

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