UKC

Ive been looking at belay devices but am fairly baffled, I like the look of the Metolius BRD but am not sure if it's what I'm looking for. I just need a simple Belay device which doesnt lock too much

In reply to Wallay: And also decent price

In reply to Wallay:

Just now all you need is something like a Black Diamond ATC type device or any tube device

In reply to Wallay: I have a Wild Country Belay device that will be fine to start you off. Get in touch if you'd be interested in the below for £7 incl p&p

http://www.chasingair.com/repository/documents/productimagery/wild-country-...

Its been used once by my missus then we found out we were having a critter, so she no longer needs it. PM me if interested

Thanks

In reply to Wallay:

The Black Diamond ATC XP is the one you'll probably see used more than any other.
I've used one for years & no complaints from me or those whose plummets I've fielded.

In reply to Wallay:

The BRD might be seen as a bit of a left-field choice, but I have used one for years and think it is brill.


Chris

In reply to Wallay:

As others have said, something ATC would work. If there's a big difference in weight between you and partner an ATC XP is helpful.

In reply to Wallay:

I had a Wild Country VC Pro 2 and found it really sticky. Replaced it with a Petzl Reverso 3 a few months later and haven't looked back - way smoother (especially for abseiled which were downright painful with the VC!).

Get the Reverso from day 1 and save yourself the hassle. Autoblock mode will be useful once you get into multipitch or winter stuff, too.

has the same ATC for 5 years now. its great. (just lacking paint now!)

In reply to jadias:

Second vote for avoiding the WC VC, never could get on with them.

Would recomend either the DMM bug (was my first belay plate) or now use the black diamond atc pro, same as the petzl reverso 3 but IMO looks better and has a better feel to it.

In reply to duck tape fixes everything!!:

Ditto

In reply to all: Cheers guys...I used a caribiner behind it to smoothen it out if I had any issues...but on its own they're right it isn't the smoothest but a good one to start with

In reply to Wallay: i used the BRD for a good year and it was poor. I kept thinking it was just wearing in and it never improved.... and sometimes it just locks right wen yur leader wants rope ... and for a beginer i deffo wouldnt reccomend it!

In reply to Wallay:

It might seem a little bit old school, but sprung stitch plates with the slots the same size (so you have more rope size options) are safe and easy to use, i've never had problems with them locking up, as a beginner I felt confident belaying people quite a bit heavier than me when I was a nine and a half stone teenager.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Wallay: ATC, bug or Reverso and you are sorted

In reply to Wallay: My first belay device was an ATC XP, and its the one I still use. I find it really easy to use and simple in design, but offers some flexibility in the amount of friction it creates and the diameter of ropes that can be used with it.

In reply to Wallay:
Black diamond ATC XP they work brilliantly and they're really simple to use. And another vote against the wild country one it sticks really badly and it gets really annoying when it sticks about 5 times on every lower off!!

In reply to Wallay: DMM Bug, its just so...simple...

In reply to Wallay:

http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/bdbd/

The Black Diamond ATC XP got Editor's Choice in a belay device review in 2003, they didn't find anything wrong with it.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Wainers44:

I'd go for a BD ATC Guide, it has a loop on the top for use as an auto locking belay plate. I am on my second reverso 3, which is the petzl version and like it but it is wearing out, while the BD ones seem to keep going. Make sure you get the newest bd one as there are two versions (new has cut out sides.)

In reply to Wainers44:

Seconded

In reply to Wallay: I got a dmm bug but if I know what I do now I would have got a reverso 3...

In reply to jonnie3430:

Interesting. What's wearing out? My Reverso 3 scratched up really quickly but it's seen plenty of use (including lots of abbing) with no functional wear that I can see.

In reply to Wallay:

I've got the ATC Sport, the Petzl Reverso 3 and a Grigri in the climbing bag, when 4 of us go to the wall it is always the ATC Sport that gets grabbed first, then the Reverso 3 and the GriGri stays in the bag.

For indoor the ATC Sport: since there's only one rope having two slots doesn't add anything and gives you one extra detail to think about.

There's nothing wrong with the Reverso 3 but the extra options for outside are just a nuisance at a climbing wall.

The Grigri sticks a bit when used with the thick ropes in a climbing centre and a light climber.

it depends on what ropes you use ?

It is best to try and use a few diff belays some are slicker than others and some are grabby..

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh: Out of interest, how are you using your Grigri? I find it very rarely sticks, especially the new one which should be good up to diameters of 11mm!

OP: I use either a BD ATC Guide or a Grigri 2. I pretty much always use a Grigri indoors, unless I'm doing lots of laps because it can get quite hot! ATC is always used outdoors, unless I'm sport climbing when I will normally use the Grigri.

For a new climber, I'd always recommend something like the Reverso 3 (Or you could wait for the Reverso 4 which will be out in Spring) or ATC Guide, they will teach you how to belay 'properly' and not rely on auto breaking. Also, they're more versatile, for example, they will allow you to belay in 'guide mode', which is fantastic when climbing multi-pitches and a useful skill to have. Buying something like the ATC or Reverso will mean you don't need to buy twice (ie. Upgrade in the future)

Mike

In reply to Mike Nolan:

Is there more than one way to use a Grigri? I think the GriGri issue I have is that I'm often belaying kids and they are very light compared with an adult. With a thick rope with a bit of wear it can take a good tug to get the rope moving when they want to descend.

In reply to Wallay:
I've only been climbing for a little over a year.
When I did my intro training @ UCR in Bristol we got the chance to try three different belay devices.
There was a Wild Country one I'd been planning to get and decided not to after trying it out.
My favourite one was the Black Diamond ATC and that's the one I got.
Try some out and choose the one you get on best with
--R

In reply to Wallay:
I'd agree with the others who say to try a few different ones out at a climbing wall- they will ususally have some to lend to you.

When I first started, I used a Sticht plate, and it was great because it was grabby and gave me lots of confidence; as my technique improved re belaying a lead climber and on a top rope situation, I graduated to an ATC becuase it was a bit slicker for lead belaying. It's still my belay device of choice. In my opinion, avoid using a gri gri until at least you have consolidated your belay experience, because its operatin is intuitively opposite that of a manual device, and in any case it's a bit of a one trick pony.

Sx

Sx

In reply to Darkskys:

I found the wild country can be a bit tight- particularly on worn and woolly indoor climbing centre ropes. If you look at it in comparison to the black diamond (I now have both) it is very slightly narrower which can make a big difference.

In reply to Wallay:

Download this BMC article


http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=347_349&products_id=574...

and this

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=1436

The belay device needs to fit the type of climbing you do and the ropes that you are using.

Mick

In reply to Wallay: BD ATC will be fine-relax-you can use a reverso too,you just don't need the other features a reverso offers-just yet

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:
The only time I have trouble with lowering kids using a Grigri is when we have mini kids (5-7 year olds), during the kids clubs the first device that they are given to use is a Grigri (old school, as we don't have lots of money to replace to Grigri 2's)
Even during birthday parties we use Grigri's

In reply to ashley1_scott:

If you do come into some money and it's for the Kid's Club - don't waste it on replacing the Grigri 1's with Grigri 2's.

E

In reply to Wallay: another vote for the atc xp

In reply to jadias:


It amuses me that you see this as an inevitable progression. 70% of indoor climbers never go outside.

In reply to Wallay: If you anticipate climbing trad which usually involves half ropes go for the Reverso 3 or ATC XP. For single ropes I have found the Mammut Smart to be very good. With the Smart you hold the rope in a very instinctive and natural way with the added bonus that it locks like a Grigri but is a 1/3 of the price and less weight.

Al

In reply to Wallay:

Stick to an ATC or Bug. It doesn't matter what way around you use it, it just works.

Avoid the WC VC Pro it is a piece of junk! Avoid a GriGri also for your first belay plate.

In reply to JoshOvki:

I see where you're coming from there...I've used a VC Pro and it seems to jam up with amazing ease.

Neil

In reply to Wallay: reverso 3. Does it all.

In reply to Wallay:

Petzl Reverso.