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Learning Trad in Lockdown

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 JackR 01 Oct 2020

Hi everyone! I was doing a fair bit of indoor bouldering before Lockdown Round 1, and then some outdoor shortly after lockdown until I got quite a severe injury that put me out of action for a few months, and put me off bouldering for quite a while. Now that I cant meet up with anyone to climb indoors as Im in the North East, and because my climbing buddies are as inexperienced as me, whats the best way to go about learning trad if local groups arent meeting because of Covid? Just buying a simple rack and having a go? Or do we need to shell out for a coach?

 jezb1 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Can't remember if this was one of my better videos but it kind of touches on how to learn....
youtube.com/watch?v=KGmTDKeR6q8&

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 springfall2008 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Find a friend who knows some Trad and offer to second!

 tallsteve 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Buy some gear and have a go.  That's how the whole thing started anyway.  Hiring a guide is a European thing really.  The Brits just bought some hemp rope, learned to tie a bowline, stuffed their pipe with "old shag" and got on with it.

Start real easy.  There are some great Diffs out there e.g. Brown slab Arete and Brown Slabs in Borrowdale are fabulous climbs at the grade and a great intro for a beginner.  Trees at the top for a belay (use a tape to protect the bark) and just along the A clickety click from you.  Up near H's wall  Crag Lough and Peel Crag are calling your name. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/peel_crag_northumberland-842#maps (Crag Lough is next door!)

I know you were doing 7a inside, but outside is a bit different. Don't shun a 3c, you're learning to stay safe; you'll soon learn to place gear.  Generally well placed gear won't fall out as you climb - though occasionally you will place gear knowing it will pop out after the next move - its just there for this move cos your a wimp!  Just think angle of force; outwards and downwards really, occasionally upwards if you're on a stance.  I look for my next placement as my feet are at the last - about every 1.5m to 2m.  If the rock is sparse for good placements then shove it in where and when you can :-D

There are loads of online videos about the safe setting up of belays (probably the trickiest bit where knowledge helps). Placing a wedge in a crack safely is pretty damned obvious, cams have their little problems - again online vids will fill you in.  "Threads" and spikes are worth looking for and finding vids on.

Just do it.  Learning to lead is a whole new experience and the grade you climb is of no big issue outside.  Its the area, the view, the craic with those around you that matters.

Post edited at 16:57
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 C Witter 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Read, watch videos, make a new friend who does know how to trad climb, practice placing (and even weighting) gear at the bottom of the crag, climb some low-stakes routes that are as easy as possible and build up slowly. If necessary, rig a top rope and simulate leading with the safety of a top rope above you. Rockfax Trad+ and Libby Peter's Rock Climbing Essentials are good books to start you off. Trad is all about mileage, so don't rush things. Or, if you've the dough... a good guide/instructor might help you shortcut the process and to learn to climb safely more quickly.

Post edited at 17:10
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 raussmf 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Over the last few months I taught myself trad and managed to get a few mates involved. Between us we bought a decent rack and learned off each other / youtube videos.

Ive only lead up to S 4a so far and Ive not fallen on any gear yet but have tested a few anchors and the best advice I read was dont over think it too much.

A lump of metal in some rock is a simple system.

Practice on Mods or diffs that you could easily solo in reality.

I built some dummy anchors by attachin quickdraws to radiator pipes etc to simular bits of gear.

I think most of climbing mysterys made sense once I learnt a clove hitch!

 timparkin 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

> Hi everyone! I was doing a fair bit of indoor bouldering before Lockdown Round 1, and then some outdoor shortly after lockdown until I got quite a severe injury that put me out of action for a few months, and put me off bouldering for quite a while. Now that I cant meet up with anyone to climb indoors as Im in the North East, and because my climbing buddies are as inexperienced as me, whats the best way to go about learning trad if local groups arent meeting because of Covid? Just buying a simple rack and having a go? Or do we need to shell out for a coach?

If you can find someone to lead for you, just follow them and pay them in beer/cake

Otherwise, buy some gear and try as follows

Go with a friend. Set up a top rope anchor and then climb the route on top rope, looking at places you might place gear. Then do it again on top rope, placing your gear as you go. 

On the way back down on top rope still, clip into each bit of gear and hang on it with body weight and see how it holds. Try a small bounce (like an inch or two higher and then a slump). 

You'll learn loads about gear and how placing gear makes it more sketchy etc. 

If you have two friends, someone can then belay you from the top whilst another belays you as a proper lead. You can then test how far you'd fall by at any point asking the lead belayer to lock off and the top rope belayer lowering you until your tight on the top bit of gear. 

At that point, when you're confident and climbing things well below your grade, give it a go. 

 slab_happy 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Shelling out for a coach for an afternoon is not a bad idea, if you and some of your climbing friends can split the cost between you, just to jam some of the basics into your brains.

Then, if you can be a reliable belayer and second, find people with more trad experience to climb with and (as timparkin says) offer to pay in beer and/or cake!

You can do worse than ask on UKC; it worked for me.

Local clubs might be meeting, dependent on the exact state of local restrictions -- climbing's on the list of sports where officially-organized outdoor gatherings are permitted (subject to following risk assessment procedures).

Even if meets are on hold,  clubs might still be able to put you in touch with members who'd be on for getting out with you on an individual basis.

I also highly highly recommend getting a copy of Libby Peter's book "Rock Climbing: Essential Skills and Techniques". It has more info than you'll ever need and is THE reference guide for ropework and anchor-building and all of the other stuff you're trying to learn.

OP JackR 01 Oct 2020

Thanks everyone! I think I'll start figuring out who's going to buy what gear amongst my mates then and just give it a shot.

Post edited at 20:25
 YourNameHere 01 Oct 2020
In reply to JackR:

Dave MacLeod has started a new series "How to Climb Trad" on YouTube. It's more about the "journey" than technique (so far at least), but worth a watch:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeRoDKlIX_tcSel75eO-v-s0Q4rkGrIOy

Post edited at 20:49
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 YourNameHere 02 Oct 2020
In reply to YourNameHere:

Apparently someone doesn't like Dave MacLeod? 🤷🏻‍♂️

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