In reply to Dodgy Dave:
Absolutely no gear means yr in a potentially desperate situation, if u don't wanna fall that is.
A chain on the top bolts will give some relief, depending on desparateness of last moves / steepness / available foot holds.
No chain, but rings on the bolts / staple bolts, gives you some marginal good finger holds, you can use, if you choose to. So if its not too balency, u can pull enough rope, thread a bite through a ring, pull couple metres slack, + if yr dextrous enough, + calm, tie 2 or 3 half hitchs, or a clove hitch to your belay loop, or overhand knot, + stoppers, u can then get a hand above the knot too if u r scared, + shout take. U could just lower on this then, after reinforcing yr knot for confidence!
But u might just be too knackered.
U could at least pull a bight through a ring for a hand loop and ask them to very gently take, whilst u recover a little strength to then do the full knots.
Or give in + take yr scary whipper!
Getting a friend to tie gear on to a loop u lower ( after tieing yr self to a bite pulled through a ring) is only an option if the route is no more than 1/3 the length of yr rope.
Post edited at 10:23