UKC

PD or F mixed routes

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 Kieran68 06 Feb 2025

Hi, I've just discovered this site after a long break from alpine mountaineering.

I'm looking for suggestions for 3000m + peaks, preferably France (Ecrins) or Italy, F or PD to start with. I never climbed higher than HVS so I'd prefer mixed or snow routes.

TIA

 Phil Murray 06 Feb 2025
In reply to Kieran68:

Castor PD+ from Italy. Best day we ever had! 

 Hovercraft 06 Feb 2025
In reply to Kieran68:

“Classic Routes in the Ecrins” by Seb Constant is available in English and contains lots. Published in 2018 so relatively up to date with the changes caused by glacial retreat.

My suggestion (although I’m not an especially experienced Alpinist) would be to go out there at the right time of year then take local advice as to current  conditions.  Snow cover seems to be very variable year to year, especially early season.

And welcome to the site!

Post edited at 21:00
 hokkyokusei 06 Feb 2025
In reply to Phil Murray:

I remember doing Pollux ( Also PD+), from Zermatt, then went into Italy and stayed at the Refugio Val d'Ayas hut. Next day we did Castor and then the Breithorn (F) on the way back to Zermatt. Great fun.

Post edited at 21:26
 FLT 07 Feb 2025
In reply to Kieran68:

+1 for the Constant topos.

Nevertheless from my experience, a "F" grade in Ecrins often has much more and more difficult rock than the snow plods in Valle d'Aosta!

E.g. Pic Coolidge is rated F containing an UIAA III- crux and quite a lot of scrambling and route finding. 

Same for Rateau, F/F+ but rock III.

 MG 07 Feb 2025
In reply to Kieran68:

La Tresenta(3600m) from the Vittorio Emmanuel hut and Gran Paradise the next day

 LastBoyScout 07 Feb 2025
In reply to Kieran68:

You'd have to be an acrobat to do those routes.


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