UKC

Hi all, 

I'm new to climbing, but hoping for a spot of advice. 

I'm 40, i've had a total hip replacement but hoping to get into climbing more regularly - this being more than my "every so often take the 6 year old bouldering or clip and climb!" 

Now gone are the days when they say you can't do things after a hip replacement (according to the surgeon they've had too many people say "look what I can do and you said I couldn't") so no one is telling me "absolutely don't do it" so, i'm doing it! 

With that in mind, I wondered if anyone could recommend a supportive harness? I know if I fall from a massive height and crunch the hip it'll likely end badly no matter what harness I choose but just wondered if there would be some things better than others to look at? 

Now, I'm not looking at going nuts with climbing, I just want something active, exciting and a bit sociable so it seems perfect - and it's far better for the hip than my previous Judo hobby so hey, it's a lesser evil surely. 

anyway, any advice would be awesome. I'll also be doing a spot of bouldering here and there and obviously aim to climb down, it's more the times I fail and fall that are the concerns - i'm hoping that I can be better supported sport climbing over bouldering. 

I’d obviously keep away from super lightweight mountaineering harnesses but I’d say any of the sport harnesses will do. Most important thing is fit, try them all on. different models could cause different pressure points. Different models could cause different pressure points so depending on where your scar is there could be big differences in comfort. 

Like Dai says I reckon most sport harnesses will be ok once your scar is fully healed, however if you want a bit of extra padding and comfort you could opt for a Big Wall harness like this https://bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-big-gun?gad_source=1&gad_camp...

They've got a much wider waistband and more padding as they're designed to be hung in for many hours.

Bearing in mind that everyone's recovery is different here's my experience...

I'm 67, had a THR last November and was sport climbing in Spain early April at about the same level as as before the op. I probably started climbing indoors late Feb using my normal harness (Petzl Adjama) with no obvious scar soreness, although I was careful not to take any big falls at that point. I was rigorous about prehab and rehab and not doing anything (too) silly for the first 12 weeks after the op (as per instructions). Bottom line for me is that the harness type is really a non-issue. A wider/softer one might be better (spread the load) or it might be worse (move some load from non-scarred tissue to scarred tissue). Just get one that fits well.

Thanks all that’s really useful. 
 

I had my op a couple of years ago, so no real pain from scar these days, more a case of being safe and keeping things supported etc my rehab was all but nothing, couldn’t get a physio as it was all very close to Covid so physios were flat out and I ended up being seen once and sent on my way. 
 

main issue really is the other side needs doing and I’m doing all I can to hang on as long as possible before doing it. So things like this are great as keeping active helps no end. Fell into a big ol slump quitting martial arts and I’m desperate for some adrenaline!