UKC

/ Transitioning from Plastic to Rock

L Madajo - on 12 May 2018

Hi guys,

I've been climbing indoors on and off for years, but I started climbing indoors once or twice weekly 7 months ago. I think I've improved and I want to start heading outdoors more now the weather is good, but it feels like the transition to rock is a massive slap in the face. I'm having issues with reading the route and foot placement mainly, does anyone have any tips that could help me?

Post edited at 13:03
yesbutnobutyesbut - on 12 May 2018
In reply to Madajo:

Climb really easy stuff to start with and work up the grades as you get used to placing gear, making belays and moving on natural rock. 

zmv - on 12 May 2018
In reply to Madajo:

Totally normal, outdoor grades only start to feel similar to some indoor grades if you have spent an equal amount of time on both.

What type of outdoor climbing are you interested in? Trad, sport, bouldering? The advice would be different for each discipline. Whatever you prefer if you enjoy pushing yourself and try hard while staying safe, it's hard not to improve.

L Madajo - on 12 May 2018
In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:

That's been my aim. I went out bouldering on tuesday before I got rained off, but I couldn't even seem to start a V0! I assume the standard, "the best way to improve at climbing is to climb", is most likely true.

L Madajo - on 12 May 2018
In reply to zmv:

Ok, I thought this might be the case, I guess I was hoping for some miraculous advice I didn't think of.

springfall2008 - on 13 May 2018
In reply to Madajo:

Bouldering is usually hard, and feels even more so because of the chance of hurting yourself. If you want to start climbing outdoors I'd advise starting with climbing top rope/seconds with a friend until you can read the rock a bit better. It's much nicer for learning when you can just take a rest/dangle around at any time. The hard bit is finding a crag which has easy lines, starting on F5 is usually a good balance between availability of routes and difficult.

 

steveriley - on 11:21 Wed
In reply to Madajo:

Just seen your other post on brushing sandstone and wanted to add some encouragement. Lots of people find moving from indoors to out a shock and I'd advise just getting lots of movement in. Certainly don't get bogged down by the grades. Indoors is just different to outdoors and I think sandstone more so than others. That and you'll probably find some of the indoor grades you've been on generous and they often suffer from compression at low grades, ie V0s that aren't.