UKC

My adult son and I are off to the Alps for 8 days at the end of June / beginning of July.  Where shall we go?  What routes would you recommend?

As background, we are both pretty fit, lead climb up to about Severe and happy on grade 3 scrambles or winter gully bashing.  Last time we did the stupid thing and went to Chamonix, did a couple of easy acclimatisation routes and went up Mt Blanc.  I have also done a couple of other easier Alpine routes in my youth.  Last year we went to the Cuillin and got our backsides kicked by the ridge.

A guide is not really a realistic prospect, due to the price.  (Sorry guides - I know you are actually good value but family finances preclude it)

So, we are seeking recommendations for an area that will have plenty to entertain us at about PD grade.  Famous routes or mountains are not really required.  If the area could be not toooo expensive then even better.

We were thinking of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland.  Yes I know I said I wanted to try and not spend too much but I was thinking of doing a weekly shop at a Carrefour before crossing over the border.

So, any recommendations for particular valleys in Switzerland or some other recommendations that we really ought to consider would be great.

Thank you!

Saas grund or Arolla would get my vote.

Bruce Goodlad’s Alpine Mountaineering book is a good reference point. 
 

The Weissmesis from the Almagellar Hutte is my

favourite easy 4000er. 

I would second Tom's recommendations here.  

Aiguille de la Tsa is a spectacular summit but easier to attain than it looks.  Snow plod followed by a few pitches up to V diff and a few abs back down. 

I've stayed in Brigg, Switzerland, a normal town with nothing in walking distance but loads a short drive away in all directions. Camp site, hotels, guest house, etc at normal prices. 

Get the Plasir guide for the area (or vertical life for your mobile). Or one of the local guides (will be in French or German) 

Take Swiss sport grades with a pinch of salt. We've had a few entertaining days out as result.

And yes, get your big shop on the other side of the border. Bizarrely beer prices are roughly the same in the supermarket.

If you do this I did a lovely cruisey low grade bolted route up the Jegihorn on a course a few years ago, after being guided up the Allalinhorn the day before. Couldn't tell you the name I'm afraid or the exact grade (I thought about 4 something, might have been lower) - it's definitely not listed on UKC as is and seems to be a variation of something else. But very fun! 

If you do this I did a lovely cruisey low grade bolted route up the Jegihorn on a course a few years ago, after going up the Allalinhorn the day before. Couldn't tell you the name I'm afraid or the exact grade (I thought about 4a, might have been lower) - it's definitely not listed on UKC as is and seems to be a variation of something else (possibly Sudgrat; was told it's easier than Alpendurst). But very fun! 

(May not be your thing, but was such a beautiful route and views, I'd love to find the actual topo one day.) 

I think you mean Alpendurst - a bolted severe. Really fun. 

Another vote for Saas Valley - a good base. The Allalinhorn from the Britanniahutte via the Holaubgrat is a great thing to do. Also traverse of Weissmies which allows a descent via a cable car is to be recommended, though I think the glacier descent on the north side may these days be dangerous with serac collapse, making a descent via south ridge a better choice. There are also other options for easy summits from the valley.

No it was a lower grade variation on something else, I think the south ridge. Alpendurst sounds fun too though. 

Sound like the top 2/3rds of the Sudgrat. It is easy to bypass the harder pitches on the initial gendarme, by walking up the main path for a bit, and starting after it. Agree it's an excellent warm up/introduction.

That sounds like it. Thank you - couldn't find it mentioned anywhere.

Thank you very much indeed everyone for your thoughtful and helpful replies.  Having made it clear that I would not be able to employ a guide I feel especially grateful to Tom Ripley for his immediate advice!

And Pecs, there is no chance of me doing that bridge crossing on the Jegihorn!

Time to buy a map for Saas Grund I think.

You get Swiss maps for free on the Swiss topo app. 

I have the fondest memories of both Arolla and Saas Fee - the co-op in Evolene is the place to provision yourselves - but also think about a switcheroo via the Mont Blanc tunnel, into Italy to avoid Swiss costs. Had a great end-of-season week based in Staffal a few years ago with great access to loads of F/PD glacier bimbles. 

I have quite a collection of 1:25,000 maps of Swiss Alps. If you’re interested you can have them for a few quid each. I won’t be needing them again. They are quite expensive to buy these days. But I’ve been told most guides don’t use paper maps anymore…..

That sounds tempting!  I'll drop you a line.

Guides might not use maps but I'm not a guide and I really rather like them.  I expect I'm not alone.