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First of all, I know the book doesn't exist (as far as I'm aware anyway).
But I'm currently bored, and I was wondering about this - a list of routes which are excellent routes, but which nobody really goes and does, for whatever reason, inaccessibility, 'unpopular' crags, things like that (things like "its very vegetated" or "its very loose" are allowable, although it'd be nice if the climbing on the route more than makes up for the bushes/loose blocks)
As an example of what kind of thing I'm looking for, Fantan B, on the Lleyn - it isn't that far comparatively from the bustling crags in the Pass, lots of people who have done it (I haven't, and on current form won't ever be good enough to) rate it as "like Dream, but in a better position, and without the crowds", but as far as I understand it its deserted a lot of the time (certainly compared with Dream at least - how busy is it in reality - 1 party a weekend, 10 parties a weekend, what?). Routes like that - the "its as good as XXX, but without the queues" routes, or the "I can't understand why no-one does this route" type of thing. [if I've completely mis-read Fantan B in this paragraph, my apologies, that's the impression I've got of it, hopefully even if the example is crap you can see what I'm trying to get at]
Any grade you like, anywhere in the UK, any suggestions for routes that you would recommend for including in this entirely fictional book. Go on, inspire me to find somewhere quiet to climb, on excellent routes, rather than going somewhere off the beaten track only to find out exactly why it is off the beaten track...................
AJM
But I'm currently bored, and I was wondering about this - a list of routes which are excellent routes, but which nobody really goes and does, for whatever reason, inaccessibility, 'unpopular' crags, things like that (things like "its very vegetated" or "its very loose" are allowable, although it'd be nice if the climbing on the route more than makes up for the bushes/loose blocks)
As an example of what kind of thing I'm looking for, Fantan B, on the Lleyn - it isn't that far comparatively from the bustling crags in the Pass, lots of people who have done it (I haven't, and on current form won't ever be good enough to) rate it as "like Dream, but in a better position, and without the crowds", but as far as I understand it its deserted a lot of the time (certainly compared with Dream at least - how busy is it in reality - 1 party a weekend, 10 parties a weekend, what?). Routes like that - the "its as good as XXX, but without the queues" routes, or the "I can't understand why no-one does this route" type of thing. [if I've completely mis-read Fantan B in this paragraph, my apologies, that's the impression I've got of it, hopefully even if the example is crap you can see what I'm trying to get at]
Any grade you like, anywhere in the UK, any suggestions for routes that you would recommend for including in this entirely fictional book. Go on, inspire me to find somewhere quiet to climb, on excellent routes, rather than going somewhere off the beaten track only to find out exactly why it is off the beaten track...................
AJM
In reply to AJM:
Isthis what esoteric means then? Id always wondered...
Probably my list is crap since the vas tmajority of my climbing has been single-pitch. However...
Nasal Buttress (HS), Noddys Wall (VS) and Maggie (HVS), all under-rated except Nasal, all at Dovestones (Chew valley) and therefore see little attention (reason equals walk-in i guess). The crag is brilliant and these 3 were the best i did there, the place is well worth the walk-in.
Also, Windy-corner Nose Finish (HS) at Helsby, great position, but snadstone, and lucks crap from below, hence probably not too popular.
And Mo (HS) at Wilton 3, which has a dirty top-out and is unheralded in the guide but involves several very nice moves, although being in a quarry the setting could be better.
> First of all, I know the book doesn't exist (as far as I'm aware anyway).
>
> But I'm currently bored, and I was wondering about this - a list of routes which are excellent routes, but which nobody really goes and does, for whatever reason, inaccessibility, 'unpopular' crags, things like that (things like "its very vegetated" or "its very loose" are allowable, although it'd be nice if the climbing on the route more than makes up for the bushes/loose blocks)
>
> But I'm currently bored, and I was wondering about this - a list of routes which are excellent routes, but which nobody really goes and does, for whatever reason, inaccessibility, 'unpopular' crags, things like that (things like "its very vegetated" or "its very loose" are allowable, although it'd be nice if the climbing on the route more than makes up for the bushes/loose blocks)
Isthis what esoteric means then? Id always wondered...
Probably my list is crap since the vas tmajority of my climbing has been single-pitch. However...
Nasal Buttress (HS), Noddys Wall (VS) and Maggie (HVS), all under-rated except Nasal, all at Dovestones (Chew valley) and therefore see little attention (reason equals walk-in i guess). The crag is brilliant and these 3 were the best i did there, the place is well worth the walk-in.
Also, Windy-corner Nose Finish (HS) at Helsby, great position, but snadstone, and lucks crap from below, hence probably not too popular.
And Mo (HS) at Wilton 3, which has a dirty top-out and is unheralded in the guide but involves several very nice moves, although being in a quarry the setting could be better.
In reply to Fiend:
I see you picked the title before me, but surely yours could be better titled "Chossy Rock" or "Loose Rock" - I was hoping for a bit less of the choss angle (most of your thread's routes are "well, its so chossy that its a classic of the genre", rather than it being a classic which happens to be chossy)................
I guess we just have different ideas. Since you got "Esoteric Rock" first, I might re-title as "Strangely Unpopular Rock" or possibly "Unknown Rock", or something along those lines.
AJM
I see you picked the title before me, but surely yours could be better titled "Chossy Rock" or "Loose Rock" - I was hoping for a bit less of the choss angle (most of your thread's routes are "well, its so chossy that its a classic of the genre", rather than it being a classic which happens to be chossy)................
I guess we just have different ideas. Since you got "Esoteric Rock" first, I might re-title as "Strangely Unpopular Rock" or possibly "Unknown Rock", or something along those lines.
AJM
In reply to AJM:
Errrr, no, it's not about choss.
Your example of Fantam B fits perfectly with the ethos we were speculating on.
Errrr, no, it's not about choss.
Your example of Fantam B fits perfectly with the ethos we were speculating on.
In reply to AJM:
are you intneding to take th eclub to any "unknown" destinations this year? Id be well up for it...
are you intneding to take th eclub to any "unknown" destinations this year? Id be well up for it...
In reply to SidH:
According to a dictionary quotation from someone on the thread Fiend mentions:
esoteric:obscure and mysterious, not known to many
Which is what I was going for, rather than the climbing definition of "esoteric", which has over the years come to include a large measure of choss in the mental translation. I'm all for adventure climbing, it makes for a far more memorable route, but I was hoping for a few which weren't chossy.
Maybe I'll pick "Obscure Rock" as the title, rather than the ones I gave in the reply to Fiend, it has a better ring to it than "Strangely Unpopular Rock", which frankly sucks.
AJM
According to a dictionary quotation from someone on the thread Fiend mentions:
esoteric:obscure and mysterious, not known to many
Which is what I was going for, rather than the climbing definition of "esoteric", which has over the years come to include a large measure of choss in the mental translation. I'm all for adventure climbing, it makes for a far more memorable route, but I was hoping for a few which weren't chossy.
Maybe I'll pick "Obscure Rock" as the title, rather than the ones I gave in the reply to Fiend, it has a better ring to it than "Strangely Unpopular Rock", which frankly sucks.
AJM
In reply to Fiend:
Yes, my apologies, I read your post about half way down about the "book of 600 foot HXS rubble horrors" or whatever the exact words were, you do seem to have the same idea.
I mainly looked at the first suggestions posted, which included some stuff on the chalk cliffs, plus High Tor Gully (don't know anything about it, but I assumed its along the same lines as the shale horror on Mam Tor?), plus Labrinyth, which mentions caving skills, and the routes in the 'Coe (Crypt Route and the Chasm), the "guano filled ledges" route, a route with a sand cornice, and assumed you were going for a "crumbly, chossy or a caver's route" sort of thing - either loose, very loose, a cave, or a slimy thrutch.
Having read to the end, some of the other respondents seem to have felt the same, although I suppose if its good climbing then it could count.......... but apologies again for not bothering to read all the way down.
AJM
Yes, my apologies, I read your post about half way down about the "book of 600 foot HXS rubble horrors" or whatever the exact words were, you do seem to have the same idea.
I mainly looked at the first suggestions posted, which included some stuff on the chalk cliffs, plus High Tor Gully (don't know anything about it, but I assumed its along the same lines as the shale horror on Mam Tor?), plus Labrinyth, which mentions caving skills, and the routes in the 'Coe (Crypt Route and the Chasm), the "guano filled ledges" route, a route with a sand cornice, and assumed you were going for a "crumbly, chossy or a caver's route" sort of thing - either loose, very loose, a cave, or a slimy thrutch.
Having read to the end, some of the other respondents seem to have felt the same, although I suppose if its good climbing then it could count.......... but apologies again for not bothering to read all the way down.
AJM
In reply to SidH:
Depends, I have my doubts that many of the routes in Fiend's list I could actually do, and even if I could, I'm doubtful I could convince anyone to actually drive there to do them with me, so we shall see.
AJM
Depends, I have my doubts that many of the routes in Fiend's list I could actually do, and even if I could, I'm doubtful I could convince anyone to actually drive there to do them with me, so we shall see.
AJM
In reply to AJM: Hmmm, obscure rock, most recent obscure place visit would probably be:
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/irishmans-wall.shtml
Haven't visited enough obscure crags to know if it's worthy of comparison on a national scale.
Carnforth area of Lancs rock has loads of obscure crags to keep one occupied for a while.
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/irishmans-wall.shtml
Haven't visited enough obscure crags to know if it's worthy of comparison on a national scale.
Carnforth area of Lancs rock has loads of obscure crags to keep one occupied for a while.
In reply to AJM:Cwm Cywarch :- 'Kaisepakte' on Craig Llywelyn &'The Overlap' on Tap Mawr, pretty esoteric & really wortwhile.
In reply to AJM: Anything in Iceland...my route wasn´t called ´Loose in Places´ for nothing - every other hold fell off!!
In reply to Ali:
You didn't see the "anywhere in the UK" bit then?
Glad to see you seem to be having fun. If youre really that fussed about I've been up to (club email you sent out), let me know, and I'll have a go at it (although if you wait until the end of the month it might get more exciting - Lundy soon!).
AJM
You didn't see the "anywhere in the UK" bit then?
Glad to see you seem to be having fun. If youre really that fussed about I've been up to (club email you sent out), let me know, and I'll have a go at it (although if you wait until the end of the month it might get more exciting - Lundy soon!).
AJM
In reply to AJM:
A great route that I think does meet your criterion (and I've done Fantan B so I think I know what I'm comparing things with) is Barad on Trywn Llywd, North Pembroke. It's got perfect rock, a brilliant position, a relatively easy approach which gets you into a really exciting and exposed position before you even start. It's fairly graded at HVS; the first pitch is mild VS but in a very exposed position, the second pitch feels like someone has taken one of the stiffer gritstone "traditional" VS jamming cracks (Broken Crack at Froggatt, say) and suspended it 150 feet above a foaming sea. And then the final pitch is even more exposed, but easy enough to enjoy to the full.
A great route that I think does meet your criterion (and I've done Fantan B so I think I know what I'm comparing things with) is Barad on Trywn Llywd, North Pembroke. It's got perfect rock, a brilliant position, a relatively easy approach which gets you into a really exciting and exposed position before you even start. It's fairly graded at HVS; the first pitch is mild VS but in a very exposed position, the second pitch feels like someone has taken one of the stiffer gritstone "traditional" VS jamming cracks (Broken Crack at Froggatt, say) and suspended it 150 feet above a foaming sea. And then the final pitch is even more exposed, but easy enough to enjoy to the full.
In reply to AJM:
How about Shy Ann Arete (err HVS?).
So esoteric I can't remember the name of the crag.
But I think it's on the other side of the valley from Laddow if that helps.
How about Shy Ann Arete (err HVS?).
So esoteric I can't remember the name of the crag.
But I think it's on the other side of the valley from Laddow if that helps.
In reply to TimB:
Bareholmes, I think. Superb climb but very esoteric grade. Seemed like full weight 5c at the top, and there was almost no pro on the whole route IIRC (I seconded it). Well, it's not very long, but it packs a hell of a lot of hard moves into its modest height.
Bareholmes, I think. Superb climb but very esoteric grade. Seemed like full weight 5c at the top, and there was almost no pro on the whole route IIRC (I seconded it). Well, it's not very long, but it packs a hell of a lot of hard moves into its modest height.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I dont think Decameron Rib gets many ascents since the Ron James selected guide to Wales went out of print. Same goes for Chalkren Stairs on Gallt yr Ogof
I dont think Decameron Rib gets many ascents since the Ron James selected guide to Wales went out of print. Same goes for Chalkren Stairs on Gallt yr Ogof
In reply to kevin stephens:
Not that I've ever done them, but what about things like Eastern Arete on Nantlle y Garn, and Angel's Pavement on Craig y Bera - in the Ron James book? I'm sure they'd be prime contenders.
Plus that route by Mallory on Y Garn??
And Adam's Rib? somewhere in S Snowdon. I remember setting out to do/look at that years ago but the weather turned bad.
Not that I've ever done them, but what about things like Eastern Arete on Nantlle y Garn, and Angel's Pavement on Craig y Bera - in the Ron James book? I'm sure they'd be prime contenders.
Plus that route by Mallory on Y Garn??
And Adam's Rib? somewhere in S Snowdon. I remember setting out to do/look at that years ago but the weather turned bad.
In reply to AJM:
Glad you've seen what our idea was all about =).
And thus in the spirit of what you're asking (no 600 foot HXS rubble horrors in this lot), a personal selection of less popular routes I've really rated:
South East Climb, The Devils Jump, Cornwall
Some VS I've forgotten the name of, Roche Rocks, Cornwall
Labyrinth, Berry Head Quarries, Devon
Solitude Standing, Ham Hill Quarry, Somerset
Red Square, Nesscliff, Shropshire
Mango, The Brand, Leicestershire
Moonshot, Beacon Hill, Leicestershire
Troy Quarry, Summit Quarry, Deeply Vale, Lancashire
Everything at Windmore End, Cumbria
Everything at The Hoff, Cumbria
The Flashing Blade, Redmire Quarry, Yorkshire??
Some arete that was stupidly mis-graded and grossly underrated in the North East England guide, Park Nab, Yorkshire
Left Arete, The Thirlstane, Galloway
Glad you've seen what our idea was all about =).
And thus in the spirit of what you're asking (no 600 foot HXS rubble horrors in this lot), a personal selection of less popular routes I've really rated:
South East Climb, The Devils Jump, Cornwall
Some VS I've forgotten the name of, Roche Rocks, Cornwall
Labyrinth, Berry Head Quarries, Devon
Solitude Standing, Ham Hill Quarry, Somerset
Red Square, Nesscliff, Shropshire
Mango, The Brand, Leicestershire
Moonshot, Beacon Hill, Leicestershire
Troy Quarry, Summit Quarry, Deeply Vale, Lancashire
Everything at Windmore End, Cumbria
Everything at The Hoff, Cumbria
The Flashing Blade, Redmire Quarry, Yorkshire??
Some arete that was stupidly mis-graded and grossly underrated in the North East England guide, Park Nab, Yorkshire
Left Arete, The Thirlstane, Galloway
In reply to Fiend:
Yes, Red Square is certaibly a bit of a gem at an obscure crag. As are many of the other routes there but they're all E6 or above!
Mohammed the Mad Monk (VS) isn't bad for a dingey Lancashire quarry.
And the obscure Eavestone near Brimham has some good routes (until you get near the top out....).
Yes, Red Square is certaibly a bit of a gem at an obscure crag. As are many of the other routes there but they're all E6 or above!
Mohammed the Mad Monk (VS) isn't bad for a dingey Lancashire quarry.
And the obscure Eavestone near Brimham has some good routes (until you get near the top out....).
In reply to Fiend:
For the peak you can add the following excellent climbs at mid-grade: Private Targets; Great Crack; Bramble Crack.
Offwidth@home
For the peak you can add the following excellent climbs at mid-grade: Private Targets; Great Crack; Bramble Crack.
Offwidth@home
In reply to Anonymous:
Ah yes....I still have a date with the former two of those, thanks for reminding me, forgotten all about them.
Ah yes....I still have a date with the former two of those, thanks for reminding me, forgotten all about them.
In reply to AJM:
Well, I'll agree that FantanB is an excellent outing and you will certainly not see many parties on it (especially in November when I did it). Absolutely nothing like DOWH though, except that its HVS, fairly long and at the seaside.
Well, I'll agree that FantanB is an excellent outing and you will certainly not see many parties on it (especially in November when I did it). Absolutely nothing like DOWH though, except that its HVS, fairly long and at the seaside.
In reply to Fiend: Have you done 'The Creation' @ Guisecliffe?
Not sure if that is esoteric enough. It is a 3 star quarried crack that stays perfectly clean though. I'm sure it's not as popular as all the other 3 star E2's in Yorkshire.
Not sure if that is esoteric enough. It is a 3 star quarried crack that stays perfectly clean though. I'm sure it's not as popular as all the other 3 star E2's in Yorkshire.
In reply to Fiend: > Solitude Standing, Ham Hill Quarry, Somerset
Seeing as I live 10 minutes from there I guess it's time I went and checked the place out. Any ideas on climbing information about the place?
Seeing as I live 10 minutes from there I guess it's time I went and checked the place out. Any ideas on climbing information about the place?
In reply to Matt_b:
Errrrr ummmmm well. This is something I don't understand. It was in the previous Avon and Cheddar guide with normal crag and routes description. But in the new guide, there's just a mention about some local climbing club asking them not to put it in and for people to use their guide instead, and something about it being most appropriate as a top-roping venue or some shit like that.....well, f*ck that! The routes are normal routes even if the venue is a bit esoteric, they're there to be led and I dunno what the hell that climbing club are talking about.
This is Solitude Standing, BTW:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=2696
Right hand side of that arete is E4 5c. There's some decent looking low extreme wall climbs to the left too. You need a pre-placed rope to belay off about SS. Fairly good bouldering traversing plus possible eliminates.
Errrrr ummmmm well. This is something I don't understand. It was in the previous Avon and Cheddar guide with normal crag and routes description. But in the new guide, there's just a mention about some local climbing club asking them not to put it in and for people to use their guide instead, and something about it being most appropriate as a top-roping venue or some shit like that.....well, f*ck that! The routes are normal routes even if the venue is a bit esoteric, they're there to be led and I dunno what the hell that climbing club are talking about.
This is Solitude Standing, BTW:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=2696
Right hand side of that arete is E4 5c. There's some decent looking low extreme wall climbs to the left too. You need a pre-placed rope to belay off about SS. Fairly good bouldering traversing plus possible eliminates.
> (In reply to AJM)
>
> Glad you've seen what our idea was all about =).
[snip]
>
> Glad you've seen what our idea was all about =).
> Some VS I've forgotten the name of, Roche Rocks, Cornwall
In reply to Fiend:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad_det.asp?crag_id=317
Roche has been banned, this is completely unmentioned in the SE cornwall guide book. This is a real shame since it is simply some of the best climbing in the area, but it's probably best not to annoy Lord Falmouth as he seems to own most of what isn't owned by the National Trust in Cornwall.
In reply to AJM: Deer Gallows in Yorkshire may qualify as Esoteric. In spite of glowing recommendations in the guide, has anyone else ever visited (other than me)? Collection of good routes in the lower/mid grades.
In reply to AJM:
Bianco (VS 4b), Filth (VDiff) and Derision (VDiff), all at Agden Rocher. None of them gets any stars in the guidebook, which appears to be designed to put people off going there completely. Bianco in particular would me a 3* classic if transplanted to Wharncliff just up the road.
Jam With Sam (VS 4b) at Peak Scar. Unstarred for years, it still only gets 1 star (I think) in the new guide but is one of the best routes there.
Inevitably, The Night Watch (VS 4b) at Whitestone Cliffe. One of the best routes of its grade in the county or even country. People are put off by the reputation of the crag, which is only partly deserved.
Gehenna (HVS) and Mongol (E2) at Beacon Scar (NY Moors) both come highly recommended but I'm not good enough to have done them. The lower grade routes there are almost all sandy and/or vegetated and not recommended.
I'm not sure if Standing Stones is obscure enough, but if it is then several routes there could be nominated, of those I've done Womanless Wall VS 4c is probably the best.
Dovestone Tor and Dovestone Edge are currently too popular to be counted as esoteric, for which I blame Rockfax. But Rob's Rocks doesn't seem to have increased in popularity yet - though there's no particular routes that I'd single out, the crag as a whole is one of the best low grade venues in the Peak (ther majority of the routes being VS or below)
Bianco (VS 4b), Filth (VDiff) and Derision (VDiff), all at Agden Rocher. None of them gets any stars in the guidebook, which appears to be designed to put people off going there completely. Bianco in particular would me a 3* classic if transplanted to Wharncliff just up the road.
Jam With Sam (VS 4b) at Peak Scar. Unstarred for years, it still only gets 1 star (I think) in the new guide but is one of the best routes there.
Inevitably, The Night Watch (VS 4b) at Whitestone Cliffe. One of the best routes of its grade in the county or even country. People are put off by the reputation of the crag, which is only partly deserved.
Gehenna (HVS) and Mongol (E2) at Beacon Scar (NY Moors) both come highly recommended but I'm not good enough to have done them. The lower grade routes there are almost all sandy and/or vegetated and not recommended.
I'm not sure if Standing Stones is obscure enough, but if it is then several routes there could be nominated, of those I've done Womanless Wall VS 4c is probably the best.
Dovestone Tor and Dovestone Edge are currently too popular to be counted as esoteric, for which I blame Rockfax. But Rob's Rocks doesn't seem to have increased in popularity yet - though there's no particular routes that I'd single out, the crag as a whole is one of the best low grade venues in the Peak (ther majority of the routes being VS or below)
In reply to Fiend: Cool, I'll check it out later. Ham hill is a bit of a wierd old place, always tend to stay away from it, but if there is some half decent stuff there to train on then and it's only 10mins away will check it out.
Cheers,
Cheers,
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
How about Turning Stone Edge - is that obscure enough ? is Overton Arete the *** HVS ?
How about Turning Stone Edge - is that obscure enough ? is Overton Arete the *** HVS ?
In reply to Bob: Ok then, how about Scoop buttress at Crookrise. Any of the 3 starred routes on it are worth the 10 min walk, the arete of Mindless being particularly fine; Kaluza Klein for the HVS leader. The E3 looks really good, but scary.
In reply to AJM:
Anything on Earnsheugh, on the south Aberdeen seacliffs. Lots of three star routes, up to three pitches long, in a wildly exposed setting, but I'd be surprised if there are more than a handful of climbers from outwith the area who've done any of them...
Anything on Earnsheugh, on the south Aberdeen seacliffs. Lots of three star routes, up to three pitches long, in a wildly exposed setting, but I'd be surprised if there are more than a handful of climbers from outwith the area who've done any of them...
In reply to AJM:
Cool, many thanks to all who have replied, I've never heard of most of these routes before (which is kinda the point), which means when I'm bored I can have a look at the names, find out where they are, and then work out either when to go and climb them, or how to get good enough to be able to consider the previous step.
Keep 'em coming,
AJM
Cool, many thanks to all who have replied, I've never heard of most of these routes before (which is kinda the point), which means when I'm bored I can have a look at the names, find out where they are, and then work out either when to go and climb them, or how to get good enough to be able to consider the previous step.
Keep 'em coming,
AJM
In reply to AJM:
Monolith Crack (S), Clogwyn Y Tarw, Ogwen Valley.
Climbed it the other week, definately esoteric. Can't say to much about it - that would spoil the surprise - but it was fun.
Monolith Crack (S), Clogwyn Y Tarw, Ogwen Valley.
Climbed it the other week, definately esoteric. Can't say to much about it - that would spoil the surprise - but it was fun.
In reply to Chris Fryer:
Poetry in Motion (E2 6a) on the far group at Rylstone. Or, on a personal note, one of the routes Al Phizacklea and myself put up on Haskett Buttress in Ennerdale.
Bob
Poetry in Motion (E2 6a) on the far group at Rylstone. Or, on a personal note, one of the routes Al Phizacklea and myself put up on Haskett Buttress in Ennerdale.
Bob
In reply to Li'l Zé:
The original route names came from some professor of English - I don't even think that they were his initials so no real idea as to why he chose D & S (perhaps Dextra & Sinstra from Latin for right and left). We just carried the idea on - "The Dipso Somnambulist" was named after a mate who liked a tipple but always looked as if he was asleep. Cannot remember the reasons for the other names, I think we just raided the dictionary and found something silly sounding.
Bob
The original route names came from some professor of English - I don't even think that they were his initials so no real idea as to why he chose D & S (perhaps Dextra & Sinstra from Latin for right and left). We just carried the idea on - "The Dipso Somnambulist" was named after a mate who liked a tipple but always looked as if he was asleep. Cannot remember the reasons for the other names, I think we just raided the dictionary and found something silly sounding.
Bob
In reply to AJM:
I've resisted replying to this so far as I'm even begun to bore myself going on about what a good route Hyndsight is. There are some good suggestions on this thread as well
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=14359
I've resisted replying to this so far as I'm even begun to bore myself going on about what a good route Hyndsight is. There are some good suggestions on this thread as well
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=14359
In reply to Bob: Been there, done that. Some of the finest rock on the Moor. I think its a fairly well known spot though.
In reply to GrahamD:
OA only gets 1 star but sail buttress gets 3. Anoyingly too many Turning Stone Edge routes finish in Rhodedendrens which I suppose adds esoteric points.
OA only gets 1 star but sail buttress gets 3. Anoyingly too many Turning Stone Edge routes finish in Rhodedendrens which I suppose adds esoteric points.
In reply to GrahamD:
If you like belaying half wedged in a bush
Yep one star and its loads better and a bit harder than Hugo De Vreis next door which gets E1**.
If you like belaying half wedged in a bush
Yep one star and its loads better and a bit harder than Hugo De Vreis next door which gets E1**.
In reply to AJM:
Mummy's Church VDiff on (in) Carn Liath on Skye is my suggestion.
1st you squeeze thro' a rift, then cave down a hole in the floor into an accommodating chamber. Climb towards the light (possible without headtorch). The climb finishes atop an exposed pinnacle (the Blade(?) goes up this). Mint.
Mummy's Church VDiff on (in) Carn Liath on Skye is my suggestion.
1st you squeeze thro' a rift, then cave down a hole in the floor into an accommodating chamber. Climb towards the light (possible without headtorch). The climb finishes atop an exposed pinnacle (the Blade(?) goes up this). Mint.
In reply to Fiend: The obvious one we missed off that list was lockwoods chimney.
In reply to Swirly:
jakes jungle route in glen clova (hard very vegetated)
guide says
" An arboreal expeince, climbing on vegitation all the whole way....."
sounds fun :S
jakes jungle route in glen clova (hard very vegetated)
guide says
" An arboreal expeince, climbing on vegitation all the whole way....."
sounds fun :S
In reply to clams:
Sounds superb. Definitely one for my tick list, just have to make sure my partner doesn't see the route description first.
> Mummy's Church VDiff on (in) Carn Liath on Skye is my suggestion
Sounds superb. Definitely one for my tick list, just have to make sure my partner doesn't see the route description first.
In reply to Swirly: Lockwoods Chimney is brilliant! Bangor University Mountaineering Club (BUMS to you) used to go en masse up this as a tradition after the christmas AGM at midnight with head torches. Alchol gave the neccessary motivation!!!
In reply to Mart the old fart:
Bangor University Mountaineering Club (BUMS to you)
Dear Mart
Have you heard of the Strathclyde University Mountaineering Club - the SCUM Club.
Norrie
Bangor University Mountaineering Club (BUMS to you)
Dear Mart
Have you heard of the Strathclyde University Mountaineering Club - the SCUM Club.
Norrie
In reply to Norrie Muir: Sheffield University used to call themselves SCUM.
In reply to Mart the old fart:
Dear Mart
So, where do the C's come into it?
Norrie
> (In reply to Norrie Muir) Sheffield University used to call themselves SCUM.
Dear Mart
So, where do the C's come into it?
Norrie
In reply to Norrie Muir: You'd have to ask them - I was a BUM!!!!
In reply to Norrie Muir: Leeds Metropolitan University, Sheffield Cosmopolitan university?
In reply to Chris Fryer: When Newcastle Polytechnic became a university some years ago, those in charge were seriously considering naming it the City University of Newcastle upon Tyne until somebody noticed the acronym.
In reply to John2:
Dear John
But appropriate nevertheless.
Norrie
> (In reply to Chris Fryer) When Newcastle Polytechnic became a university some years ago, those in charge were seriously considering naming it the City University of Newcastle upon Tyne until somebody noticed the acronym.
Dear John
But appropriate nevertheless.
Norrie
In reply to AJM:
Anything at Lawrencefield in the Peak!
Setting is wonderful, routes are quality, and I was there all day on Sunday and only saw 4 other parties all day!!!
It was my first time there and was fantastic to get away from the Madding crowd!
Luv Barra! xx
Anything at Lawrencefield in the Peak!
Setting is wonderful, routes are quality, and I was there all day on Sunday and only saw 4 other parties all day!!!
It was my first time there and was fantastic to get away from the Madding crowd!
Luv Barra! xx
In reply to Barra:
You were lucky. It's usually full of top-ropers.
You were lucky. It's usually full of top-ropers.
In reply to Fiend:
But Moonshot is complete pants compared to Starship Trooper!!!
Luv Barra! xx
> Moonshot, Beacon Hill, Leicestershire
But Moonshot is complete pants compared to Starship Trooper!!!
Luv Barra! xx
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