UKC

It's a bit like psychological profiling. If you can get in to their heads, you can suss the route out before you even climb it.

In reply to JoHNY:

You've clearly never tried anything set by Percy, have you?!

In reply to JoHNY:

Anyone that sets a problem harder than 5a so you can't climb it eh JoHNy

In reply to TN:

That was the first thing that sprang into my mind as well.

In reply to Theclimbinglab:

Is that the guy who sets stuff at the Edge?

In reply to Wilbur:

Thats Percy - sets some fantastic routes but his grading at the lower end can tend to be a bit erratic at times.

In reply to JoHNY: Can you blame guys like that? The difference between a 5 and a 6a is probably very little to them, but to everyone else...

In reply to bluebrad:

i thought his problems were fab

In reply to Wilbur:

They are! You get so see some proper contortions and gymnastics watching people try to do them. Then Percy comes in and makes it look about 4a.... LOL!

In reply to TN: percy.... not a very nice man... he's very arrogant... but that's my opinion.

In reply to Iggy_B:

Totally agree with you - as someone else pointed out Percy makes just about anything look like a 4+. However it would be nice to have a climber with a lower top end grade to provide an input with regard to the grade as well though to try and balance this out.

My reasoning behind this is that there is new route on lead at the Edge graded at 5 (maybe 5+) and suitable for beginner leads. No problem except for the fact that it is IMO a lot closer to a very balancy 6a+.

In reply to bluebrad: Name that route.

In my experience percy will get someone who is in at the time he sets the route to have a go and cast their opinion.

I'm fairly sure that the green over the door has been corrected too 4+ to 6a (or is it a different route?)

In reply to Muz: Not that it matters what the grades are as they differ in every wall and they're nothing like outdoor sports grades!

In reply to bluebrad:

You may be referring to that bright purple one by the right moving wall? If so, it IS balancy but probably fair at 5+ because there are good holds by all the clips. In my opinion anyway.
Unless of course you're referring to another route - in which case which one?

In reply to Iggy_B:

Of course, but you still need some kind of relative grading - you don't want to send a beginner up something that ends up being very sparse/balancy/fingery half way up - the grades are a guideline, a starting point. Everyone KNOWS it's nothing like playing outside....

In reply to Muz:

Should have given a few clues... Doh

Its the new green one on panel 7 - with respect to the green one over the door that's a different route.

In reply to bluebrad:
If it's on the main hydraulic wall, you need you check the angle. If its the purple one and the angle is 10 degrees (as it was last night), then it does become 6a+. Can't think of any others than can be led at that sort of grade that aren't about right, but then I climb there a lot and so get used to Percy's style of route. Generally speaking they are excellant, but the grades go all over the place below 5.

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I think panel 7 is the rightmost of the featured stuff by the tower isn't it? Not lead anything round that corner for a while so that'll be one to try next time we're in!
There are a few really twisty routes up at the moment and they're really my 'thing' - great fun!

In reply to JoHNY:

I love setting routes - have been setting the occasional thing down Lancs Uni Wall, and i love it. Know what you mean about grades now though - if it's less than Enlgish 5c i haven't really got a clue any more. But i prefer Font grades/Hueco grades to something like Kendal (basic number out of 5) or no grade at all. Just gives ou an idea what you're trying!!!

In reply to TN:

That sounds correct - the wasp 6a6a+ on top rope is the next one to the right of it - be interested to see what other people make of it.

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I know the route that you are referring to on the hydraulic wall and it is a good lead - bit of commitment required over the cave IIRC but haven't done it lately.

In reply to bluebrad:
Do you mean the panel that goes vertical/30 degs/vertical with a single lower off?
Is the route the one that has side pulls on the right, and a balancy move just above the lip ?

If so then I'd agree - more like 6a+ than 5+

In reply to Chris the Tall:

No stand in the doorway facing the tower. Look at the panelled walls behind the tower (to the left side) - he means the rightmost route on that section. Usually has top ropes in situ but there have been lead routes up there for a while now. Not a bad piece of wall to play on, but sometimes a few tricky bits on it.

I fell off the bit you're on about though last week - doing the blue route. At about the 4th clip a hold I was standing on spun - bashed my elbow but I didn't squeal like a little girl. OR hit the floor - always a bonus!

In reply to TN:
Ah, didn't realise there were lead routes round there, must go and try it.

In reply to JoHNY:
Percy's routes are the best..

In reply to TN:
Why am I reminded of the bit in Red Dwarf where Rimmer is telling about a game of Risk he once played...

And then I threw a six and a five...

In reply to cidersoak:

Are you taking the piss or are you Percy in disguise? He's never come across as arrogant when I've talked to him or told him one of the lower grades might be wrong.

In reply to bluebrad:
Just done the green 5+ this lunchtime - seemed about right, maybe one or two hard moves but not sustained. Certainly easier than the 6a (purple swirly) or 6a+ (red) that go up the overhanging wall opposite the tower (ie to the left of the door & window).

In reply to Chris the Tall:

must be me being a wuss then - will have another look at it next week.

In reply to Chris the Tall:
How come you get down the edge at lunchtimes?

It's just not fair.

In reply to Muz:
I use my colleagues as belay bunnies and call it a team-building exercise