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V12 Outdoor05 Apr 2005
In the race between James and Adam Hocking for the 3rd ascent of The very big and very small, we have a winner. Mr Machaffie bagged it last night with Adam and his split tips coming close too. Interstingly, no one taller than 5 foot 6 has done it yet - is it a reach problem.....
Simon Panton05 Apr 2005
In reply to Rob at V12 Outdoor: Well done to the young fella. Nothing like a bit of old school marra rivalry to up the ante.
Tell Hockstack to pull his (split) finger out, the Gallt yr Ogof Skyline Buttress beckons.
Dan Jones05 Apr 2005
In reply to Rob at V12 Outdoor: Excellent effort Mr Caff, well done. No fourth from Mr Hock though? (perhaps he's waiting to do the first one fingerd ascent!)
Good to see you again at the NEC Caff, have a good time on your travels.
Dan
banned profile 7405 Apr 2005
In reply to Rob at V12 Outdoor:
Interstingly, no one taller than 5 foot 6 has done it yet - is it a reach problem.....
or lack of reach problem!!!!at 5'7" i may try and make the first over 5'6" ascent-all i need
now is more power,technique,stamina,footwork...................
Johnny gave it 8c but he was short of a reference point having only climbed up to 8b previously, in a totally different style at Buoux. Ste McClure said it was too odd to compare to a normal sport route but judging by the amount of time it took him to climb it (at the time) it was about 8b+. Be interesting for Caff to give it a grade. No doubt he'd say it's more technical than all the E8s he's done, but safer. It really doesn't matter. It's hard, and unique. Good effort Caff.
In reply to Dave C: Naaaa.. Big JD did 2nd ascent if I remember rightly from info from, (the then), High. Oh no got it wrong, of course it was Chris Bon.....ton!!!
Things going well family wise although not much climbing. We've decided to move to sunnier climes/climbs so heading off to the Pyrennees to live at some point in the next year. Whole gorges to develop, loads of established routes, good ice climbing, surfing....Man, I should be in sales.
When you in Wales next? Pop in for a brew, I'll fill you in on the details.
I remember seeing him at Kendal two years ago on film (mostly bouldering) and he seemed to be in a class of his own for sheer brilliance of style as well as awesome technical ability.
In reply to gambit:
If I remember rightly this guy had a major epic on Cloggy a couple of years ago...After doing The Bells, The Bells at Gogarth he decided to have a go at Masters Wall on Cloggy....Sort of went tits up and involved antics such as untying from both ropes when half way up the route and then standing on tiny slopers for a couple of hours.....When an ab rope was finally lowered to him he cocked up the knot and 'descended' rather faster than expected...
Didn't Big Si from Skye do the second ascent? It was on his 8a.nu scorecard for a while. Si's a big lad, more than five and a half feet anyway, and a bit of a slab monster. You should see him on his 'slippy slab'.
Great effort Caff. Good to hear that you're still getting out. Just one point though: yours will be the fourth ascent. I soloed it last March...in the rain. And it was dark, from what I can remember. Me headtorch kept falling over me eyes.
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