UKC

I'm keen to do this Grade3(s) scramble and whilst I know only too well all scrambles are potentially very serious. I'd like those who have done the route for their opinions on this route. I've done various Grade2-3 routes and just would like to know of the eiffy bits whilst Soloing? ( yeah I know its defeating the exploration aspect etc etc,,,,, )

Your helpful advice appreciated. Thnx.

In reply to johndevlin:

The first bit is steep, though with good holds - I've always roped it as a couple of pitches if I've had less experienced people with me. After that - i.e. once you're on the ridge - it seems much less intimidating. I think there are a couple more tricky moves, but not nearly so exposed. Great route!

In reply to johndevlin:

What Carolyn said.

The only potentially serious bit comes first; it looks exposed but when you're on it there are lots of blocks & juggy holds.

The top bit is quite entertaining if it's windy, but you can find less exposed lines to the left of the ridge.

In reply to johndevlin:

after the initial steep climb, the step round into the chimney can be a bit daunting with a bit of exposure...after that it's plain sailing...

In reply to johndevlin: Thanks for the reply's I'll give it a go then

In reply to johndevlin:
In addition to what everyone else has said - the upper part can be made more exciting by keeping as close to the arete as possible

In reply to johndevlin:

As always, take care with loose rock, I scared myself on it when a handhold pulled off. It's a great route tho.

In reply to johndevlin:

In the guide it gets Moderate. As said above only the first 20m is Moderate. If you're comfortable soloing that, go for it. The rest is a 1/2 scramble best taken on the crest for maximum fun.

In reply to Wibble Wibble: Can you remember if there is good gear placement on that M section ? If there is I could self protect that bet by pulling out gear as I move above it, if the section feels doggy.

In reply to johndevlin:

There is some reasonable gear on the first wall, IIRC.

But, to be honest, having looked at your profile, I wouldn't expect you to have any difficulty - most people I know who lead at VDiff/Severe are quite comfortable soloing this section in dry conditions. It's only really intimidating if you're not a climber at all.

In reply to johndevlin:

Good gear, but if you lead VS you'll have no problem soloing it. God knows if I can, then pretty much anyone can.

In reply to johndevlin:

John, if that's really you in your excellent profile pic, then Cneifon Arete is not going to feel at all dodgy!

In reply to johndevlin: Again thanks all. I was thinking of self-protection if its wet really. But good to hear that its not too diff( usual rock respect aside ). I'm using it and all the other Classic VD/S climbing routes to get my Big Boot skills up! Hope to get to Alps in June as I've zero Alps mountaineering experience (a bit of Ice climbing/Scotland Winter). So if an experienced PD+ AD person reads this and wants to share expenses then get in touch. Cheers again!

In reply to johndevlin:

John - if you want to make a good day of it, and get as much scrambling in as you can, then turn right at the top of the arete and go up the Gribin (keeping on the crest, otherwise you spoil it). Walk round the Castle of Winds, then scramble down (much more fun than going up) Bristly Ridge, up on to Tryfan and then down the North Ridge. It's a long day but great for fitting in lots of scrambling.

(also, if you can climb V.Dif, why not start up the Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs, then traverse across to the bottom of the arete - that way you'll hardly step off rock all day!)

In reply to RichardBennett:

instead of doing Ordinary Route, do Idwal Staircase, a very pleasant grade 2 to will take you up to seniors ridge, then you can pop across to Cneifon Arete.

In reply to Paul at work:

Seconded - Idwal staircase is lovely And like the cneifon the hardest bit is at the bottom.

In reply to johndevlin:

What about the sub-Cneifon Arete? It's about VDiff and would make a good prelude to the Arete iteslf.

In reply to Wibble Wibble:

its a lot harder than Cneifion Arete, but i do agree it would make a good start.

In reply to johndevlin:

Just out of interest, can anyone tell me how to pronounce "Cneifion"?

In reply to Kev Wynne: hello , you pronounce it like this (cneifion) k-n-a-e-v-e-o-n , and the translation of (cwm cneifion ) to the name less cwm is totally rubbish! i think it means (cwm cneifion) means valley of the shearing/shearers

In reply to IOAN D:

obliged.

kev.

In reply to IOAN D: So what would Valley of the Sheepsh****rs be?

PS Of course I meant 'sheepshearers'.

In reply to Wibble Wibble:

The Sun Cneifon Rib is given VD and is a great route but its tough at the grade and feels desperate when wet. Ordinary Route is an easish Diff and a much more suitable partner.

In reply to John Devlin

Watch out for loose rock on the steep start and be aware there are steeper false lines below the easiest staret (a leftwards diagonal traverse up and right from the base of the arete). Simon Caldwell is right: further up the exposed bits staying right on the ridge line are really fantastic. Some sections look unlikely but holds always arrive although a short steep step at about 2/3 height will then probably be the technical crux. This section is great prcatice ground for moving together on a short rope.

Offwidth @home

In reply to johndevlin: Thanks for all the helpful advice. I'll use it next chance I get as it all went a bit pear this Sat..... Sat: Left Norwich at 4am to head to Sunny Wales for a crack at Cneifion Arete ( based on 3 weather forcasts that said, clear skys by 8am, light winds, 12C........ Arrived to 6" snow as we drove to the Ogwen Cottages and observed the -2C and Snowing hard!!!! Change of plan. Partner didn't like the idea of walking/scrambling over 2foot of snow. So we split up. I decided to go the same route but not actually do the grade 3 Scramble so I assended in white out conditions up a steep snow filled gully and onto the Glyder pins. great if a little hairy at times and needed to really trust my compass as you couldn't tell up or down when you go onto the ridge... but got down safely much to the relief of my friend as I had the car keys Oh, and as we drove home at 3pm it was, Sunny and 10C ???? But a grand day out as usual.

In reply to johndevlin:

It was certainly an unusual weekend - full on winter conditions high up (2 of our club went without axes & crampons, and had to abseil down the PATH at one point!) Yet it was 10 C in Tremadog (although rainy & quite slippy).

In reply to johndevlin:

On Snowdon it was still snowy and very cold