UKC

REVIEW: Fontainebleau Magique - Reviewed

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 Graham T 19 Apr 2005
Anyone know when this is in the shops?
I know it was meant to be released last saturday, but haven't seen a hint of it.
I want to get it before i go to font a week on thursday
Stephen Reid 20 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T:

It's in.
 Chris Fryer 20 Apr 2005
In reply to Stephen Reid: It's not on the Needlesports website. Can you let us know when we can order it online?
Stephen Reid 20 Apr 2005
In reply to Chris Fryer:
> (In reply to Stephen Reid) It's not on the Needlesports website. Can you let us know when we can order it online?

Oh yes it is! Try the page of French guides - fairly near the top. Sorry can't paste the URL here as it would be advertising - it's probably advertising anyway!

In reply to Stephen Reid: Not in their manchester outlet yet.
In reply to Richard Bradley: That's Jingo's not Needlesport!
Jingo Wobbly 20 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T: The guide should be fully on sale in France too, as it is bilingual. It shipped to France week ending 15th April (UK 14th April).
Adrian Paisey 20 Apr 2005
In reply to Jingo Wobbly: Saw a copy in Peglers, very nice it looks to!
 Chris Fryer 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Stephen Reid: Spotted it, being ordered as we speak. Thanks.
 Rowie B 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Chris Fryer:

Only a week to go - woo hoo
OP Graham T 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Stephen Reid:
Cheers, ordered it yesterday afternoon
OP Graham T 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Rowie B:
Where are you staying?
 Alun 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T:
Could anyone that has it/ordered it let me know if it's worth getting (when it comes)? I'm also going next week, and want to know whether it's worth forking out the 20 quid.
 Rowie B 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T:

Um... a campsite but not sure which one? Arrive Fri am and leave Mon pm.
OP Graham T 21 Apr 2005
In reply to Rowie B:
Just wondering as we are staying at a furmule un in Nemours
In reply to Graham T: Picking up my copy after work. Will let people know what I think of it over the weekend.
In reply to Graham T: I've checked out the book over the weekend. Agree with much in the official review in the main.

Folk should note that it is a guide to 50 mainly orange and blue circuits. It marks other circuits but does not give much more info on them. It will be of much use to fair to middling boulderers who operate up to Font 6b ish.

The major pluses are that the topos of the circuits are much clearer than in Fontainebleau Climbs and the pictures (there are LOTS) more obviously relate to the section you are looking at.

The down side is 1) that because of the way the book is organised, in order of difficulty, relevant info can be scattered throughout and 2) The sybols, there are TOO many. I'm sure i've found a couple that aren't in the index! The good news is that they are there to be ignored.

Overall, I like the quality and look of the guide. The better topos will be very useful and the photos will inspire. Between the two books any low to moderate grade climber will be well served. Those who are ready to push their grade may be better of with the 7's and 8's book.
Billy De Kid 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T:
It seems stupid to me when you get people climbing well outside a guides grade range doing a review. This guide should be reviewed by a punter to Font (as it was intended) not by people who have spent many years climbing there and operate way and above the grade range the guide is aimed at.
You may find that the gripes that the majority of people seem to be making would not be a negative to someone who was new to the Forest.
Billy De Kid 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T:
There is a book available called 'Bleau de Gres six' which covers many of the grade six climbs in the Forest. If only it was a little easier to get hold of and there was an English version available....
OP Graham T 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Billy De Kid:
Having had a look at it over the weekend i agree with the review and others comments, will no doubt keep using the pink one, but i'm sure some others in the group will use it
In reply to Billy De Kid:
> It seems stupid to me when you get people climbing well outside a guides grade range doing a review. This guide should be reviewed by a punter to Font (as it was intended) not by people who have spent many years climbing there and operate way and above the grade range the guide is aimed at.
> You may find that the gripes that the majority of people seem to be making would not be a negative to someone who was new to the Forest.

I haven't noticed that many gripes in either the review, or in this thread. I think Percy does a fine job of putting the guide into perspective. His point about the missing harder problems is that the guide may lack inspiration for some. The only other negative points mentioned are the symbol useage which is irrelevant to the ability of the person writing the review.

I'm not sure how someone who was new to the forest would be in a position to do a better review. How could they tell if it did justice to the place?

sloper 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Billy De Kid: It's available in the tabac in Milly (the one at the botom of the 'square'.
OP Graham T 25 Apr 2005
In reply to sloper:
Does anywhere in Nemour have it?
sloper 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T: Nemours, how the feck should I know?

The bloke who runs the van at Trois Pignons South car park at the weekends will have it.

PS what's the score with petit bois?
OP Graham T 25 Apr 2005
In reply to sloper:
Petit Bois? no idea
 Chris Fryer 25 Apr 2005
In reply to sloper: When are you off tom? I have sent you an email.
In reply to Billy De Kid: It's right in my grade. I spent my week there last summer doing mostly blue problems with the odd easy curcuit but I did try the odd red and black problem. No idea what actual grade most of the problems I did were. They were bloody fantastic though.

The book is very good and informative but is limited to 50 circuits...

The new book will work very well alongside the old purple one for the vast majority of climbers.
phil 25 Apr 2005
In reply to Graham T: I thought Percy's review was pretty fair - it could have been much more critical. First off, I'm a great fan of the Jingo Wobbly guides; once you crack the code the amount of information contained is easily intelligible, but you need to use the books, they don't make much sense in the armchair. Second, the quality of the production is fantastic; most of the pictures are really stimulating and send you rattling through your diary to book yet another trip. Third, the maps of the area as a whole and the topos of the circuits are far better than anything else that's available. I'm looking forward to the next one in the series - a Jingo Wobbly version of the Degree 6 book would be brilliant.

But .... three disappointments. First, the organisation of the sections is a bit idiosyncratic so the maps for an area i.e. trois pignons are in one place, yet the areas within are scattered around. But, all the Jingo Wobbly guides are a bit idiosyncratic and that's why I like them. Second, the maps of the circuits look brilliant but as with all Font guides the directions on how to find the start of a circuit are not as clear as they could be. This is not a problem when you find the circuits, but it is while you are looking. Finally, and much more serious, there's no guide to the good eating places, good drinking places and all that kind of stuff. The Burgundy guide is brilliant in that respect and I was hoping this guide would be similar. So, I'm still stuck with the Michelin guides ...

Ii think Percy's review was pretty fair. This will be really good for first time users, it's not as good for me as the Degree 6 book, but I do hope that they'll produce a Degree 6 along with some of the 7's, and that they'll include some tips on good food.
Billy De Kid 27 Apr 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:
By new to the Forest I essentially meant someone climbing at these grades. I didn't say the review was bad but it was short and lacked some detail for those who may wish to purchase it. E.g. Is it more or less child friendly, is it inspiring, is it well laid out and easy to use etc. The comments in the review were on the whole quite negative, albeit in a humorous way.

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