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Alpine rock -lesser known gems

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 NickJH 30 Apr 2005
With the potential for a four week European Alps trip in the offing (July),looking for some new areas to visit. What would be your number one lesser known location.
Have climbed in the
Italy-Val di Mello, Dolomites (Sella,Cortina)
Switzerland-Salbitchijen, Eldorado,Leysin
France- Ecrins, Cham area

Looking for long rock routes (trad or sport)Mountain or valley F5 -6b, Alpine D - ED-

Wondering about places like; Switzerland - Engelberg (Kingspitze), Handegg, Furka Pass/Sustenpass
Italy - Val della Orco, Brenta Dolomites, Lecco

Any recommendations?
 daveclarke5 30 Apr 2005
In reply to NickJH:
Central Switzerland has some super routes:
You could spend a good week around the Salbitschijen - the South Ridge is excellent (about 16 pitches with crux of 5/5+?). Other good routes from same hut are SE Face of Zwillingsturm and Incredibile - and there are lots more.
From the same valley you can also get up to the Bergseeschijen area, which also has some shorter routes.

The Engelberg area around the Kingspitz always seems a lot more adventurous to me. I've got the Kingwand on my ticklist for this Summer - looks awesome, but I believe its not so steep as it looks. Quite a few other good routes in the area - Rosenlauistock, Klein - Gross Simelistock (traverse) and Vorderspitz W Ridge (but don't try descending from this in a lightning storm).

The Schweiz Plaisir guides are good for this area plus Handegg, Furka and Susten passes. All well worth a trip.

Dave

 BenTiffin 01 May 2005
In reply to NickJH: Try the Bregaglia Vallet in Switzerland - loads of stuff from Valley Cragging via multi-pitch mountain crags to big (up to 1000m) routes on the Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo. Loads to do.

Ben
drd 02 May 2005

In July, you should probably avoid Lecco, unless temperatures go well below the season's average you will fry, if you attempt a long route. The only place you might want to visit is Sasso Cavallo (400 meters of perfect limestone, with a few bolted routes and some great classics)

Valle dell'Orco is perfect in July and at your grade you have tens of superb climbs both bolted and trad; the best bolted routes are on Becco di Val Soera, Ancesieu, Monte Destrera. The place is one of the most beautiful in the western alps and never crowded. On the other side of the Gran Paradiso National Park, you also have some superb rock climbs (Punta Marco, Ciarforin, Moncorvè) and never a soul around.

Handegg is probably ok for half a day, as far as I remember, but good for company (close to the road and lots of people). If you want Switzerland, in Ratikon you have a lot routes also at your level on what is probably the best limestone in the entire Alps.

Further East, Brenta is superb, but if you are looking for LONG routes and a bit of adventure consider Marmolada

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