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I have set myself the goal of climbing my first E1 by the end of the year, what are your recommendations for a good first E1?
In reply to dougair: Wait for the TPS debate to start!
In reply to dougair:
Needle Route, Shelter Stone Crag.
Not that I've done anything on Shelter Stone Crag or lead E1...
Needle Route, Shelter Stone Crag.
Not that I've done anything on Shelter Stone Crag or lead E1...
In reply to JonC: Doh, that might help, anywhere in the Peak. Thanks
In reply to steve barnbrook:
The debate will not materialise as it is not E1, therefore it is outside of the remit of the question.
The debate will not materialise as it is not E1, therefore it is outside of the remit of the question.
In reply to dougair:
three pebble slab on frogget. fairly easy, its a test of nerve and your rubber. Or supra direct on millstone, that was my 1st E1, if ya like finger cracks.
miles
three pebble slab on frogget. fairly easy, its a test of nerve and your rubber. Or supra direct on millstone, that was my 1st E1, if ya like finger cracks.
miles
In reply to Jules King:
LTS is quite a handful for a first E1. Protection less than 100 per cent when it matters, if you are finding it technically tricky (which it is).
Millsom's Minion a better bet. Bold start to break but then perfect pro at crux.
Namenlos can also be quite well protected now where it matters and is miles a lot easier than either of the aforementioned.
LTS is quite a handful for a first E1. Protection less than 100 per cent when it matters, if you are finding it technically tricky (which it is).
Millsom's Minion a better bet. Bold start to break but then perfect pro at crux.
Namenlos can also be quite well protected now where it matters and is miles a lot easier than either of the aforementioned.
In reply to miles: I think I saw that one when I was at Mill Stone last time, does it have a larger crack to the left of it? If so thats the one I have my sights on at the moment.
In reply to dougair:
Depends on what kind of climbing you like.
How about Steamin' at Stanage End?
It's not a classic but it's a gentle introduction to E1.
Depends on what kind of climbing you like.
How about Steamin' at Stanage End?
It's not a classic but it's a gentle introduction to E1.
In reply to alj:
I'd suggest Namenlos too, easy and well-protected. Or you could go for my own first E1, Tighe's arete at Hobson Moor.
Andy
I'd suggest Namenlos too, easy and well-protected. Or you could go for my own first E1, Tighe's arete at Hobson Moor.
Andy
In reply to dougair: On Peak Limestone I recommend Bicycle Repair man at Staden Quarry. On grit.. how about Embankment 4 at Millstone.. it's safe and not too strenny and not so dependent on jamming as the other embankment routes?
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Protection has imoproved in the last couple of years. The blind corner crack has expanded and now takes a Nr1 nut with reasonable security. I agree it was a bit of a handful but I like the fact that it gives a good 'out there' feeling but with good beta is reasonable. Some other low grade E1 lack that need for a bit of thought and planning.
Protection has imoproved in the last couple of years. The blind corner crack has expanded and now takes a Nr1 nut with reasonable security. I agree it was a bit of a handful but I like the fact that it gives a good 'out there' feeling but with good beta is reasonable. Some other low grade E1 lack that need for a bit of thought and planning.
In reply to dougair:
Cemetery Gates? Something to get your teeth into rather than these grit non-entities.
Cemetery Gates? Something to get your teeth into rather than these grit non-entities.
In reply to dougair:
Namenlos is soft at the grade (place cams around to left before the final ramp) and may help persuade you that E1 is OK.
Long Tall Sally is way harder and pro is iffy. I wouldn't as a 1st E1. Though it was in the first few I did it I found it quite scary. Top route mind.
If you are strong and can hang around placing pro, Strapiombate at Froggatt is well protected and OK.
Namenlos is soft at the grade (place cams around to left before the final ramp) and may help persuade you that E1 is OK.
Long Tall Sally is way harder and pro is iffy. I wouldn't as a 1st E1. Though it was in the first few I did it I found it quite scary. Top route mind.
If you are strong and can hang around placing pro, Strapiombate at Froggatt is well protected and OK.
In reply to James Jackson: I'm going to have a crack at Sirplum this year. Some people say the climbings HVS, it's just the exposure that gives it E1, so if the OP has a super cool head.....
Disclaimer: the above is rumour!
Disclaimer: the above is rumour!
In reply to mtr: ...hmmm a cool head, I guess I should have, depends just how exposed it is! Its not the height that worries me, its hitting the ground!
In reply to dougair: I don't think you'll hit the ground as long as your belayer is awake.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=2131
I think it's quite pumpy aswell.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=2131
I think it's quite pumpy aswell.
In reply to Yorkspud:
I can't admit to having done it (would love to though), but it does look fantastic.
I can't admit to having done it (would love to though), but it does look fantastic.
In reply to Joe G:
Dear Joe
It is a nice line, and well worth doing. Go for it.
Norrie
> (In reply to dougair)
> Needle Route, Shelter Stone Crag.
> Not that I've done anything on Shelter Stone Crag or lead E1...
> Needle Route, Shelter Stone Crag.
> Not that I've done anything on Shelter Stone Crag or lead E1...
Dear Joe
It is a nice line, and well worth doing. Go for it.
Norrie
In reply to JonC: Long tall sally was my first E1 but I think I cherry picked it as I had a good idea my height (6'2) would help. I found it easier than some HVS's I've done, but a gain I thing it's a body dimension thing.
In reply to dougair: Strapiombante is solid at E1, and safe to fall off. Possibly not the best first e1 though.
Mississippi Variant Direct (I think) is good. That was my first grit E1 and it only really has one hard, balancy move.
Mississippi Variant Direct (I think) is good. That was my first grit E1 and it only really has one hard, balancy move.
In reply to Norrie Muir: I've just had a look at this Needle Route at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/the_needle.htm
and it's now on my long term tick list.
Are the midges as bad over that side as they are on the west coast?
and it's now on my long term tick list.
Are the midges as bad over that side as they are on the west coast?
In reply to dougair: Can you lock off? If so the crux on either Nuke the Midges or Kirkus's Corner (both at stanage) will feel easy.
If you like slabs, the inevitable and notorious 3PS is a good bet.....
Look at what a good route Kirkus' is though, and how well protected it is:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=36027
If you like slabs, the inevitable and notorious 3PS is a good bet.....
Look at what a good route Kirkus' is though, and how well protected it is:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=36027
In reply to dougair:
Do you mean GOOD first E1, or good FIRST E1? Cos I suspect the 2 may be mutually exclusive!
3PS is neither.
Down at Chee Tor you'll find both, but I can't remember the names, so you'll have to find out for yourself.
Do you mean GOOD first E1, or good FIRST E1? Cos I suspect the 2 may be mutually exclusive!
3PS is neither.
Down at Chee Tor you'll find both, but I can't remember the names, so you'll have to find out for yourself.
In reply to Steve Ramsden: Kirkus does look good and plenty of pro, will check that out next time i'm at Stanage.
In reply to dougair:
At Stanage
Namenlos is soft touch - as mentioned above, you won't deck if you place cams around the corner before launching up the top section. No more than 4c, I would have said.
Anniversary Arete is good value - and at least no-one will see you failing.
And then there's Cent over at High Neb. A nice 4c solo with a good landing.
At Stanage
Namenlos is soft touch - as mentioned above, you won't deck if you place cams around the corner before launching up the top section. No more than 4c, I would have said.
Anniversary Arete is good value - and at least no-one will see you failing.
And then there's Cent over at High Neb. A nice 4c solo with a good landing.
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
What this photo doesn't show is that when you get your feet to the break
at the climber's waist you still have a move to make (though only 4b/4c?)
and if you come off that you will smack into the slab below.
Hence E1 not HVS.
> Look at what a good route Kirkus' is though, and how well protected it is:
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=36027
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=36027
What this photo doesn't show is that when you get your feet to the break
at the climber's waist you still have a move to make (though only 4b/4c?)
and if you come off that you will smack into the slab below.
Hence E1 not HVS.
In reply to Coel Hellier: Also makes it a much better route though. You'd have to be pretty crap at climbing to make it up there and fall off though. Even if you did don't think you'd 'smack' into the slab, just get your feet out
In reply to dougair:
Namenlos (as others have mentioned) is not good for a first E1, mostly because it actually only easy HVS - especially if you cheat and use the hidden cams.
Namenlos (as others have mentioned) is not good for a first E1, mostly because it actually only easy HVS - especially if you cheat and use the hidden cams.
In reply to dougair:
I would go for Long Tall Sally which was my first E1. It may not be the easiest E1 but at least you know you have done a proper one. Strapiombante would also be a good choice, I attempted it as my second E1 but fell off!
Stu
I would go for Long Tall Sally which was my first E1. It may not be the easiest E1 but at least you know you have done a proper one. Strapiombante would also be a good choice, I attempted it as my second E1 but fell off!
Stu
In reply to stu: just putting in a negative vote for long tall sally. I think it's hard. I think i climbed it wrong both times i did it though......
As for strapiombante, I don't think it's a good choice. Made easier if you make efficient work of placing the gear on horizontal jams. also easier if you have good stamina. It never relents though and the last reach is 5b. Setting yourself up for failure if you try and do this as an early E1.
As for strapiombante, I don't think it's a good choice. Made easier if you make efficient work of placing the gear on horizontal jams. also easier if you have good stamina. It never relents though and the last reach is 5b. Setting yourself up for failure if you try and do this as an early E1.
In reply to dougair:
do milsoms minion. it'll be downgraded to hvs soon
do milsoms minion. it'll be downgraded to hvs soon
In reply to dougair: go to the dinorwic slate quarries an go on foolsgold E1 5c very well protected, my first E1.
ioan
ioan
In reply to dougair:
I've done a few soft E1s at Stanage.
Easter Rib
Kirkus's Corner
Mississippi Variant Direct
Namenlos
Millsom's Minion
Pegasus Rib
Will do you for a start. Just work your way along. My favorite of those was MVD or KC (which was my first E1). Nam is the easiest and KC or MM probably the hardest - but they're all soft-touch for the grade.
I've done a few soft E1s at Stanage.
Easter Rib
Kirkus's Corner
Mississippi Variant Direct
Namenlos
Millsom's Minion
Pegasus Rib
Will do you for a start. Just work your way along. My favorite of those was MVD or KC (which was my first E1). Nam is the easiest and KC or MM probably the hardest - but they're all soft-touch for the grade.
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
For a first E1, I agree. I found it pretty straightforward when I was just getting comfortable at E1, but I've seen E2/3 leaders come off that last move.
> As for strapiombante, I don't think it's a good choice
For a first E1, I agree. I found it pretty straightforward when I was just getting comfortable at E1, but I've seen E2/3 leaders come off that last move.
In reply to dougair:
If you're fit/confident then LTS will be OK. But I struggled up it...all the way (it represented the top of my grade at the time). You need both qualities to get secure gear in.
If you're fit/confident then LTS will be OK. But I struggled up it...all the way (it represented the top of my grade at the time). You need both qualities to get secure gear in.
In reply to Si dH:
Must say the Kirkus's Corner gave me the biggest scare I've had in a long time, but I'd agree they're the best ones to start with. I'd add Strampiombo, if you like that sort of thing...
Must say the Kirkus's Corner gave me the biggest scare I've had in a long time, but I'd agree they're the best ones to start with. I'd add Strampiombo, if you like that sort of thing...
In reply to Pythonist: Yes, Stapiombo is nice and pleasant (cue much sniggering).
(I actually found it horrible, and that was just seconding)
(I actually found it horrible, and that was just seconding)
In reply to Pythonist:
Stapiombo is one on my to-do list
Stapiombo is one on my to-do list
In reply to dougair: I wouldnt recomend Long tall sally as 1st E1 i found it quite hard with iffy gear...duno if being 5'9 made a difference. If your thinking of going to froggatt then ignore 3 pebble and go to motor cade. its far more rewarding duno why it only gets one star. Rock fax says large low friends barely protect but i got 3 good mirco wires in the pocket above this. Strapiombante is good, the top looks horrible but when you get there its a gripper. Not done Strapiombo is on my list for next time we go. Two sided triange next to 3 pebble is a bit weird, its sort of all over before its started. Hope this helps
In reply to Si dH:
It's brilliant, as I said, if you like that sort of thing. What amused me was getting to the top without using a single jam! Thuggiest way of doing it ever, but it worked...
> (In reply to Pythonist)
> Stapiombo is one on my to-do list
> Stapiombo is one on my to-do list
It's brilliant, as I said, if you like that sort of thing. What amused me was getting to the top without using a single jam! Thuggiest way of doing it ever, but it worked...
In reply to Pythonist: Good good thugy is the way to go!
In reply to dougair: easter rib is really bold on the 5b climbing wouldnt recommend this as first E1,
try ratline at birchens 1 move wonder but the rest of the climbing is very nice, protected where it matters 3*, this is definately the best one i can think of or missisippi variant direct if your over 5'9" if not the move is a lot harder and gets E2.
try ratline at birchens 1 move wonder but the rest of the climbing is very nice, protected where it matters 3*, this is definately the best one i can think of or missisippi variant direct if your over 5'9" if not the move is a lot harder and gets E2.
In reply to dougair:Well there is certainly lots of ideas here, time to put together a routes wishlist me thinks. Thanks.
In reply to Cragdog al:
Thanks for brightening my afternoon! (says 5.7ins two times failure on MV)
> or missisippi variant direct if your over 5'9" if not the move is a lot harder and gets E2.
Thanks for brightening my afternoon! (says 5.7ins two times failure on MV)
In reply to hutchm:
I was 5.8" when I did it, probably FA as well. Learn to stretch, you reach up now as far as you can then imagine there is a £20 note for you four inches higher if you can touch it. Bet you can.
I was 5.8" when I did it, probably FA as well. Learn to stretch, you reach up now as far as you can then imagine there is a £20 note for you four inches higher if you can touch it. Bet you can.
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