In reply to Ivos: We hired a 4*4 and drove a cross country route which is mentioned in a couple of the guidebooks. It worked out pretty reasonable for 5 days (about 50 quid each between 4 of us) and gave us a lot more freedom. Organise it in marrackech, we also arranged drop off at the airport. Haggle over price as we got it down from the equivalent of about 500 quid.