UKC

french grades for some trad routes

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 abarro81 17 Jan 2007
would be interested to know if anyone has done these routes and fancies gussing at what sort of difficulty climbing they are (or knows what the consensus is):
-the cad
-the bells! the bells!
-boat to naxos
-ghost train
-coronary country
-monk's satanic verses
-lord of the flies
-nightmayer
-wall of the worlds

(yes, i know its hard to give sport grades to trad routes, i know its hard to take into account placing gear, overgripping cos of fear, etc etc so dont post anything about that on here)
just out of interest cos they're all on my short on long term list...
 shortyx 17 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

i was reading about the bells,the bells the other day in extreme rock and f*ck me it sounded scary!
 AJM 18 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

Pembroke Rockfax suggests 7a+ for Ghost Train. Obviously my personal experience on the matter is nil, but hey-ho

Wall of the Worlds at Swanage? If you go down that way at all give me a shout, I'll try and come down and say hi and muck about taking some photos of you on it

The degree any better?

AJM
 tobyfk 18 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

I once seconded Coronary Country. I'd guess somewhere around F7a+ as a 'worked' grade. It has a very specific crux that seemed hard to get right first time M0my mate fell once). The rest is pumpy as f*ck.

Ditto have been up Cad on the blunt end. This is easier though much more dangerous than CC. Maybe only F6c, though I found one move hard and fluffable.
 tobyfk 18 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

I once seconded Coronary Country. I'd guess somewhere around F7a+ as a 'worked' grade. It has a very sequencey crux (my mate fell once). The rest is pumpy as f*ck. Ditto have been up Cad on the blunt end. This is easier though much more dangerous than CC. Maybe only F6c, though I found one move hard and fluffable.
 tobyfk 18 Jan 2007
In reply to tobyfk:

*rse, forgot to delete typo'd post ...
OP abarro81 18 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81: bump... comr on ali/paz/anyone else who seems to know everything!
Removed User 18 Jan 2007
Based on them being properly bolted;

Cad 6c
Lord 6c+
The bells probably 7a
Ghost train 6c+
 Paz 18 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

Sorry Dude, he was hogging his own computer.

> -the cad 6c+, plus or minus
> -the bells! the bells! 7a+, plus or minus
> -boat to naxos Dunno, 7b? G (I could be thinking of Souls)
> -ghost train " runout 7a+ on threads = E5" according to Tom Briggs. He could well be sandbagging you, but the threads are reasonably new at the mo'.
> -coronary country what the man says above. G
> -monk's satanic verses 7c+ (ask Ally what Dave said). cruxy bit into E5 5c.
> -lord of the flies again as above G
> -nightmayer probably 7c+ comparing it to M's SV and assuming the gear's no better than on LotF. G
> -wall of the worlds Dunno if I've 2nd'd that one or the one next to it, but it feels about 7a. Sounds tough for E4 (well, it is) but this is The Ruckle - Finale Groove at a `paltry' HVS 4c would probably still get about F6a+ or even F6b in some places, done in one pitch.

G=Guess. Anything else (apart from WotW) is hearsay from Rocktalk.
 Chris Snell 18 Jan 2007
The Cad 6c+/7a
Coronary 7b (On the basis that I keep falling of it)
WoTW 6c (utter pump fest mind - thought I was going to chunder at the top I was so exhausted)

Would love to rate the rest but....
 Tyler 19 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

The Cad - 6c but a lot more "falloffable" than this grade would suggest, the holds really are quite small so notionally it may be harder.

Lord - Again difficult because of a big rest, solid 7a+ I'd say but if you wander along the ledge and have a sit down it may feel easier

 Andy Donson 25 Jan 2007
In reply to abarro81:

Cant think in french, but heres a ranked list in order of difficulty minus gear/fear issues, for those i can give an opinion on. Ive thrown in a couple of avon routes for scale.
-the cad
-wall of the worlds
-lord of the flies
-coronary country
-top pitch of Tour de France
-ghost train
-boat to naxos
-bold as love




>
 ExBristolian 26 Jan 2007
In reply to Andy Donson: Good to see you rate Bold as Love, i thought it a sequency 7b+, especially awkward at the top if at all greasy.

Alex, from what i've heard, Lord is 7a+, ghost train the same (ripe for a downgrade in new guide?) coronary 7b, Monks satanic a safe(ish) boulder problem into an E5 5c top out (take a Friend 3 for the top bit i understand) = f7c and nightmayer 7c+ and not as dangerous as that suggests, a coupleof good, but small nuts a long way below the crux, but should keep you off the ledge.
 Andy Donson 26 Jan 2007
In reply to ally smith:

I dont think Coronary's 7b - its less sustained than Ghost train having just one hard move and nowhere near as steep. I believe Crocker gave it E5....
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