UKC

Just to be really boring is it not logical to extend the b grades ie up to say b16 as they can only relate to font and v grades if done this way.Otherwise you get the
ongoing anomalies that plague the guide the grades don't
seem to make much sense!
eg jerrys trav-c/cliffe v5 should be b8
panzer trav-burbage v2 should be b4
theace-stanage v13 should be b15
etc etc etc
grading is not important really....I know.......

In reply to djs: As far as I was aware Jerry's at Cratcliffe got something like Fb 7b+

In reply to Graeme:

Maybe if you campus the moves on the crux........

In reply to djs:

Jerrys Traverse is V8/8+, dont know where you got V5 from!

In reply to djs:

To be honest, the Peak Bouldering grade is dead as far as I'm concerned. We won't be using it again in any books.

Alan

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Well said Alan. The rest of the world has long realised that the B grade is about as useful as David Beckham's left foot (which is to say f**king useless).

Andy F

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Hi Al, as it appears that I have lost my peak bouldering guide, is worth buying another one or is the new edition (featuring the revolutionary V grade! ) immenant ??

In reply to andy farnell: yeah its really useless - in fact its terrible the way that generally the B4s are harder than the B3s, but easier than B5s etc etc. Totally confusing.

In reply to Hugh Jars: from other sources...but apparently there's no new edition coming up in the very near future...

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:


Thank god for that! I hate the B grade.

Its just there to annoy!

What shall you be using alan?

Hope font as this seems the ultimate way to grade?

Cheers justin. . .

In reply to justin critchlow:

V grades backed up with English tech grades for the lower grades. Sorry I can't stand the Font system.

Alan

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:

Cool, so plans for a new guide then Alan?


Would think a Peak Bouldering guide now would be the best selling guide book rockfax ever produce!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Well I was possibly being a bit understated but I still
cannot equate it in all honesty to say midnight lightning,
Mushrooom roof(hueco),Bens Groove(caley) to me these are
benchmark v8s (7b/7b+) probs none of which I have got up!
(And would be real breakthru's for me).

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: And the new Peak bouldering guide will be hitting the shops for Christmas ??? ... he said in a moment of optomism

In reply to david swaine:

Not my grade, just general concencus...

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

No, hold yer horses. We still have a great wodge of the old one to sell. Sorry to disappoint.


A doubt it. The current book doesn't sell anything like as well as Peak Gritstone East or Costa Blanca, Mallorca, El Chorro. Guidebooks rarely change their selling pattern. New editions can give them a boost but overall the yearly demand stays roughly the same during the useful life of a guidebook.

In reply to Guideless:

The old one is a) not that old and b) still available. You don't need to be guideless.

http://www.rockrun.com/shop/prod.html?d=17&t=256&p=1858&sid=ea7...

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:

I dunno Alan, bouldering has got a hell of a lot more trendy and popular since the PBG came out (BTW, I like you doing bouldering guides). Then again by the time you get a new version ready, maybe sport climbing will be cool again.

Good to hear you will be using tech grades too, at least I will be able to understand the difficulty of the problems (unlike the current PBG where I have to constantly refer to the chart....and then get confused because B grades, like V grades, don't tell me the exact difficulty of the hardest move).

In reply to Fiend:
what about if there are 2 hard moves?

In reply to Matt:

*looks bemused

Then there will be two hard moves. And the tech grade will tell me how hard the hardest one is, and the other move will be equal to or easier than that. Which I will probably find out by looking or indeed when I climb the problem.

In reply to Fiend:

I'd be the first to admit that V grades aren't very useful for grading easy problems (below 5c), so it's nice to know that future Rockfax guides will be catering for people like you.

In reply to jp:

Oh my, an almost subtly hidden insult. From jp. What a surprise.

I try to avoid problems below 5c.

In reply to Fiend:

Not an insult at all - or do you think that people who climb below 5c are a lower class of people, and so by suggesting you climb below that grade you think I'm insulting you?

In reply to jp:

I don't think that there is anything wrong with lower grades no of course not.

But having seen most of your posts recently I don't trust you one little bit. No offense or anything.

In reply to Fiend:

Moi? What have I done?

In reply to Fiend:
are you stupid, or just a stick in the mud english tech cannot be used for bouldering effiently.

Say you have one problem with one english 6a move then the rest is easy, would that be easy or harder than a problem with one 6a move after 5 5c moves and a couple of 5b moves think not

enough said.

In reply to Anonymous:

It's no good arguing with Fiend.

In reply to Anonymous:

Woooo hoooo another one.

Second problem would be harder overall so what the hardest move would still be the same the tech grade would still be the same. Sustainedness would be obvious from the ground since it's a boulder problem (unless you are a complete f*ckwit and lo preliminary evidence is pointing that way).

And what is more that so-called argument against tech grades works equally as well against V grades. V grades don't tell you the hardest move on a problem. So V4 could be one 6b move or it could be 13 trillion 5c moves but V grade provides no such useful information so why bother.

In reply to djs:
Why not use the British tech grade with an adjectival grade to describe how sustained the problem is.
Eg. 6a s1, 6a move:
6a s8, lots of 6a moves

In reply to Billy De Kid:

Wot B grades were supposed to be, I thort.

In reply to Billy De Kid:
I've suggested this before
http://www.rockfax.com/rocktalk/t.php?t=9047

If you use 5 sustainedness 'grades' eg: 6b-1, 6b-2, 6b-3, 6b-4, 6b-5. Then if you look at the grade tables they would overlap nicely with font and V grades from 6b upwards.6b-1(V3), 6b-2(V4), 6b-3(V5), 6b-4(V6), 6b-5(V7).6c 1-5 (V6-9). This would introduce extra grades at lower tech grades.

The only problem you are left with is regrading all the wrongly graded 6c's and 7a's. And learning another system

In reply to Fiend: Its not always obvious at all. Problems can look easier than they actually are you know. Sorry to patronise but you do insist on flogging a dead horse.

In reply to Graeme: Is there anything wrong with flogging a dead horse ? I mean, the animal rights campaigners couldn't say I was inflicting pain or suffering. I always get hold of them when they're already dead.

In reply to Fiend: Keep up the good work, old boy. British tech grades should be sent out on a Voyager spacecraft as an example of what humanity (well the British sample of it) is capable of when it really gets its thinking cap on. I've had a chat from time to time with these bouldering chappies, and they're really all failed headmasters or thwarted zoo-keepers (well the 2 I spoke to were anyway).