UKC

My fiance has recently started climbing but I'd like to get him some cams / friends for Christmas to use when he's a little more learned!! I've searched the shops but wondered if anyone could advise me on a good set?

I've come across so far Wild Country, Metolius, Black Diamond but not sure which is the best??

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

In reply to laurap120:

Stuff like this shouldnt be a supprise, which it sounds like. Its probably best to take him to a decent shop with a wide range so he can choose which ones he likes best. Every climber has a different oppinion on gear personally I'd reconmend Camp Jetcams and DMM 3CU's. No reason for it, I just like them. Plus cams are expensive so theres no point buying something that he may not like all that much and ends up wanting to replace!

In reply to both: good points, but i don't know ANYONE who wouldn't be pleased with Black Diamond Camalots...

In reply to gareth uglow: I'd second the BD camalots, just get him some in sizes he doesn't have. (remember black diamond use a different size scale to Wild Country so go by the range in milimeters, rather than the "size".

In reply to gareth uglow:

Old ones were too heavy... But they are still lacking the nifty double loops...

In reply to laurap120: Camalot every every time. Put your own lings on if you really like the dmm ones, or even better, just choose your quickdraws carefully.

In reply to Gaz lord:
i concur..
also worth noting you can't take gear like that back to the shop to swap it or get a refund (health and safety laws) so it's worth making sure it's what he wants..
personally i prefer the black diamonds in larger sizes (camalot 1 and up, = 2.5 in DMM/wild country) with DMM below that for the extra extension meaning less draws (or usaully just placing more gear!) on big pitches..

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Or DMM/WC cams made in Wales as oposed to BD's new chinese factory! 1,2,3 or .5, 1.5, 2.5 are good sizes.

In reply to abarro81: indeed well pointed out, even if it still has tags on!

And there is that, he may want different makes for different sizes. I like my 3cu's small (because theyre slightly smaller than 4cu's) and jets big.

Plus whats wrong with a good hex

ooo this could get complex

In reply to laurap120: Camelots, for me the rolls royce of cams

In reply to icnoble:

Camalots in sizes #.75 - #3

Aliens in the smaller sizes (#.33-#1)

Tech friends in the large sizes!

Those are what I would recommend for brands in various sizes. Of course everyone will have different opinions!

In reply to laurap120: BD camalots, yes they are more expensive than the others but they are also the best cams on the market, you can use them as a passive nut which cant with others, larger size placement range than other cams, and alot of my friends say they dont walk as much as other cams,
though i do agree with aliens for smaller sizes.
as for the comment about the double loop system, never used one never will just extend the cam with a quick draw everytime!
matt

In reply to laurap120:

http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-gear/dmm-4cu-se-of-any-3-1233.html

Seems like a pretty good deal to me.
I'd rather have three cams from DMM than two from WC or BD.
The smaller 3CU ones are great too.

Bruce

In reply to laurap120: I would agree that no one will be disapponted with camalots but who on here wouldn't be chuffed with a pair of Omega Pacific Link Cams.

In reply to Hay:

I'd rather have two camalot than three (or even four) from DMM or WC. Camalots all the way.

In reply to laurap120:

Don't the double stem DMM cams just get absolutely mangled in a decent sized fall? the stems twist rather easy... i've never had it happen to me but mates who work in gear shops have seen some right sorry states.

Personally, black diamond Camelot's are the way forward :]

In reply to laurap120: There aren't really any 'poor' brands on the market but climbers will argue for hours about the relative merits of the main premium brands.

There are 3 mainstream premium brands in the UK:
Black Diamond - top notch gear designed in the USA
Wild Country - the original manufacurer of 'cams' with a solid proven UK design that lasts for years.
DMM - Superb kit designed AND manufactured in Wales.

Metolius is another top US brand who make superbly finished kit. But with more limited distribution in the UK there is less availability and discounts off RRP are rarer.

It is further complicated in that all the big manufacturer make basically two ranges: 'normal' cams and 'micro' cams. In generally micro cams are aimed at expert climbers attempting the hardest routes and are not relevent for beginners:

Black Diamond- C4 Camelots (normal) & C3s (micro)
Wild Country - Technical Friends (normal) & Zero Cams (micro)
DMM - 4CUs (normal) & 3CUs (micro)

There is one other niche manufacturer CCH (Colarado Custom Hardware) who produce Aliens which were the orginal 'micro cam' design and have a loyal following but very limted distribution.

Take your fiancee to a climbing shop and see what make/type he looks at and plays with most...

In reply to ro8x:

true was at the outside cafe near stanage toying around with a few really messed up double stems. One was properly screwed... literally completley twisted.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Distribution's good - just that getting enough stock for demand is the problem!

Jim

In reply to laurap120: I have a range of WC Cams, and after using the BD a few weeks back i would be inclined to go for them! Just seem a bit more slick and feel better when in place, however it has been said before, the cam is only as good as the person placing it!

In reply to thomasadixon:
When its your first set of cams and you're a new climber?

I'm sure he'll feel great run out past his two cams and never once wish he had an extra one.

In reply to Hay:

Yes! Wish I'd got camalots at the start instead of the WCs I'm replacing now. She asked which were the best, not which were the cheapest.

I expect he'll have other gear, who'd lead on just two (or four) cams? This is a present, not the entirety of his rack.

In reply to laurap120: i started out with tricams... soo much cheaper:P

but not really a replacement for moving cams though.

In reply to thomasadixon:
Noone said anything about it being the entirety of his rack but it will be his first cams. She might have 250 quid to spend, in which case dod on an get a bunch of BDs.
If she's talking about spending 100 quid though, then I still think that 3 DMMS is a better starting point than two BDs or one Omega.

In reply to Hay:

If he already has a rack well underway, I would suggest one good cam as opposed to two or three average cams.

If he is just getting his rack started, and its his first set and we will not likely be buying any more anytime soon, go for a large range of average cams rather than one or two great cams.

In reply to apneaquatic:
Are DMM 3cu and 4cu really average cams?

Wow.....thanks everyone....

Don't live too far from the outdoor shop in Hathersage, Derbyshire so I think a shopping trip is in order....

In reply to laurap120: with him dont forget:P