UKC

Anyone familiar with the local nite scene.

I've heard there's a bar or saloon nearby that's quite authentic/quirky etc. Can't remember it's name though.

Any recommendations for routes/areas etc.

Particularly - Long trad testpieces Jamming etc and Bolted face climbs.

Thanks for any info available. Rich

In reply to Rich150606: there is an ok bar place in josua tree - about 15+ miles from the campsite if you are staying in the park (can't remmebr name either) as for routes - well most stuff in sigle pitch (does that count as long?) lots of great stuff to do nd plenty of adventure routes to find too on the less visited stuff - as for bolts - only bolted stuff we did was ruuuuuuuuuun out as all hell - mostly trad

have a good time

ps if camping remember no water at campsite have to bring in with you

In reply to Etak:

that's inaccurate but no worries. there's loads of sport that's well protected and many multipitch routes.
easy to see how one might get that impression though, there's an ENOURMOUS amount of stuff to do. but nightlife? (tumbleweed blows through).
ZIP. lol i mean they're already dead up there. most folks go to sleep before the freakin sun sets and the ones that don't are high on meth: very serious problem that.
OP: i'll revisit later with some ideas. cheers

In reply to Etak:

I suspect you mean 'Crossroads', decent food and beer and quite the climbers haunt. It can be busy at weekends, especially on Sunday for a couple of hours after sunset (climbers heading back to the sprawling urban behemoth). The Thai place a block or two west (Royal Siam) does an 'all-you-can-eat-buffet' but is closed on Sundyas

as for routes - well most stuff in sigle pitch (does that count as long?) lots of great stuff to do nd plenty of adventure routes to find too on the less visited stuff - as for bolts - only bolted stuff we did was ruuuuuuuuuun out as all hell - mostly trad

The bolted stuff does tend to be 'sportingly' bolted, especially the slabs, but there are a few clip-ups here and there.

In reply to Rich150606:

What time of year are you going? Route recommendations are highly dependent on whether you'll be chasing shade or sun. Oh, and grades?

In reply to Mystery Toad: glad my 'inaccuracies' don't worry you - having climbed there a bit I'd say 'most' stuff is single pitch - if OP wnts long routes head for the gorges of red rocks (not t this time of year though!)



Crossroads! thats the name of the place - can remember a few good evenings in there -

In reply to WillinLA:

walk on the wild side is run out true but gimme a break it's 5 what? i did it it's on my profile list and it was so easy i've forgotten the freakin rating.
.....it was wild side you did.
wazzinit. lol fess up yoo.
anyway 1 bar and 1 restaurant doesn't constitute "nightlife" unless
you get picked up for driving under the influence or enjoy hanging out in fast food joint parking lots.

In reply to Etak:

hmm. roughly 50% (maybe) of the routes I did were more than 1 pitch but to be fair I had mates at the time who knew the "monument" very well indeed.
yes most are likely single pitch but....
with a bit of looking and hiking, longer and well protected sport may be found.
"ruuuuuuuuuuuuun out".
what am i gonna find in the UK? a bunch of aid ladders?

oh dear.

In reply to Rich150606:

I seem to remember a brilliant Mexican restaurant on the way out towards Yukka Valley???

The Ent

In reply to Mystery Toad:


I don't think I've ever done Walk on the Wild Side. In fact, I don't think I've done anything much at Saddle Rocks (although we're camping at Sheep's pass this weekend so it might be time to explore).

Generally, I'm a bit of a wuss on J-Tree slabs and try to avoid them. Unfortunately, one of my regular climbing partners is bold but out of shape, which forces me to pony up on the damn things.

In reply to Rich150606:

Yeh the bar in Joshua has free WiFi too, also 25 cent hotdogs Bargain!

Get on Right ski track, it spat me off !

There's a great crack climb just round from Buissonier it'll work you!

Buissonier is a nice crack to climb

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfox/1624072219/

In reply to WillinLA:

a wuss on JT slabs? the stuff is like industrial grade sandpaper.
whattaya wearing? roller skates?
uh oh. lol
so you're more of a crack climber? me too. can't get enough really.
those wee vertical edges are great when ya pull it off but in the meantime it dicey sweat. rather brute up a difficult crack.
uh......lemme rephrase that.

In reply to Enty: The best long trad testpiece is Figures on a Landscape, 3 pitches (E3 ish?)

E4/5ish more like IMO

In reply to Simon Lee:

i seem to remember part of that route being sport.
second pitch i think (?).

In reply to Simon Lee:

Really? I'm feeling good now! What the hell Give it E5.

The Ent

In reply to Rich150606:

Crossroads Cafe is my favorite après-climb hangout. Great atmosphere (mostly climbers there) and great food. One of the best seared ahi tuna steak sandwich I've ever had is there (how they get such fresh ahi in the middle of the desert, I have no idea). Great food and a pint of Guinness after a day of kick-ass climbing is just pure bliss.
http://www.crossroadscafeandtavern.com/index.html

Beatnik Cafe has ice cream, internet access and sometimes, live music:
http://www.jtbeat.com/

J-Tree has few multi-pitch climbs as others have noted. I've done a few, including Walk on the Wild Side. A lot of the single pitch routes are much longer than the ones I've done in the UK (like the Peak District) and there is so much variety in J-Tree, you won't ever get bored.

Oh, and if you need to take a shower, go to Coyote Corner.

In reply to Rich150606:

There's a Motel in Yukka Valley which hires rooms by the hour...ermmmmmm.......If you need a shower.

The Ent