UKC

hi,
my dad and his pals are heading to ladakh at the end of may and are going to have a bash at kang yatze above nimaling
he's been to ladakh a few times before and is familiar with the logistics of planning expeditions there
has anyone on ukc been up kang yatze?
if so what's the route like (they fancy the higher summit, 6400?)
any info about technical difficulty, glacier conditions, base camp locations, gear required, etc. would be greatly appreciated,

cheers,

graeme

In reply to graemecook: I ve been to the region, and trekked through the Nimaling Valley, but haven't actually climbing Kang Yatze, mainly due to time and money. (I was a poor student back then!)

However, I am led to believe that it's not greatly technical, but two axes would be an advantage. Not a lot of use really I'm afraid, however, I seem to remember Martin Moran running an expedition out there, so I'm sure you could email him for info, there may even be an article on his website.

There are some photos at any rate: http://www.moran-mountain.co.uk/LADAKH%2D2006/

graeme, a fine looking mountain and a worthy objective. I have treked in area and I recall we walked up K-Y to about 5200 m which should be close to the base camp and was well above the snow line (October). I also remember finding some info about K-Y and I think that you need a permit but whether this is enforced, I don't know. Suggest you google for info. The Nimling (sp?) plain is high and cold and altitude acclimatisation is very important. Because of the camping gear, etc and the cold, I would think it is necessary to have an expedition (ponys etc); probably organise things in Leh - there are companies there that should be able to sort out an 'expedition'. I don't think the climbing would be too technical, provided weather is OK. I don't think it's a "treking peak" but I expect altitude will be the hardest aspect. HTH, Mike.

In reply to Mikek: Kang Yatse is not a Trekking Peak and officially a permit $2000+ is required for it.However its fairly well accepted in Leh that you can do KY and Stok Kangri without permits through one of the agencies in Leh(theres plenty of them around advertising it but Rimo in particular are good) The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (who control the issue of permits in India)were supposed to be opening an office in Leh where you could just turn up and pay $ for Stok Kangri. If this has happened(it hadnt when I was there in Aug)it may make the agencies more reluctant to run illegal KY trips.
The lower Summit @6200m is very easy however the ridge to the main summit(I havent done it) is narrow and exposed and I believe about AD+

Comedy loud American Exped to lower summit video on here
http://www.kangyatze.com/lost_shell.swf

Good description(If your French!) here
http://alpinisme.camptocamp.com/en/tpl2/route3000.html?idc=6455&sidc=64...
Hope that helps

In reply to graemecook: i d also highly recommend RIMO over and above any of the others. used them a few times and could nt fault them. they ve got an office and stores in leh.
http://www.rimoexpeditions.com/
mike

cheers guys,

AD+ summit ridge, i'd heard that before but wasn't sure
think that's beyond my dad and his pals
they may have to rethink their objectives

I'll e-mail martin moran's company - thanks for that idea

In reply to graemecook: The summit ridge looks at least AD+ This is the begining of it seen from the lower summit.

http://www.moran-mountain.co.uk/LADAKH-2006/slides/Summit%20ridge%20K.Yatze...

In reply to L.A.:

thanks, i'll pass all this info onto my dad,

have you done the lower summit?
if so how was it?

In reply to graemecook:Lower summit is just a ski pole job really. A straightforward plod but very good fun. That US video shows the angle pretty well. Have a word with Martin Moran about some of the other peaks around there. KY lower is certainly worth doing as an easy 6000m peak with minimal stress but the main ridge would I suspect need some commitment.
Good Luck

In reply to graemecook:Graeme, On re reading your original post I noticed that youd said that they were going late May. The end of May is very very early for Ladakh and many of the high passes wont be open until late June/July.I would think that theres a very good chance they wouldnt be able to get to KY that early in the season, certainly agencies may be reluctant to send their staff out then.I may be wrong on that but its worth checking first. Also many of the businesses/hotels in Leh wont have opened for the season by late May the owners still being in Delhi/Srinagar. Main season is late June-July-Aug into Sept.

I went up the lower peak a couple of years ago and found it hard work but technically easy. It's a beautiful ridge once you get up there. The highest peak is rarely climbed and about 70 degree at the top. A party failed on it when I was there. There are pictures in my photo gallery.

In reply to L.A.:

yeah, not sure why they're going so early, hotels wont be a problem though as I think they're staying in phyang at a friends house (Tashi & Christina's - they've just opened or are opening soon a guest house in phyang - hidden north is tashi's website)
I hope they can get over the passes, it'll certainly be an adventure.
Thanks for your advice,
the 6200 summit sounds do-able (if they can get to it)

graeme

In reply to dthomson:

70 degrees,
thanks for the info,
sounds much more technical than they were planning
but the photos i've seen of the views from the lower summit look superb

In reply to graemecook:

your photo's are even better
cheers,

graeme

In reply to graemecook: Cheers. I used this local agency http://www.wildeastadventure.com/ 2 years on the trot doing numerous treks Stok kangri and kang yatse 2, finding them to be very good. If you want any more info just ask.