UKC

i soloed this route today,missing out on the pre placed gear.i think its got to be worth e7/8 now,what do u think? 7 or 8

In reply to mark s:
Where is judge dredd? If it is the one I know it is good HVS as the hardest move is going from the bolt that protects you when the climbing starts to get hard. It is a pity that it is so easy to there>

In reply to sutty: end cloud.roaches

In reply to mark s:
Sorry, the one I am talking of is at left hand of xanadu wall at the chasms, IOM.
I thought you must be on another crag, most of the Manx lads know of the route and would not be daft enough to say it was too hard.
Conditions must have been better there than here, I reckon Brimham will just be starting to dry as darkness falls altho Almscliff may have had some dry spots since dinnertime.
Good effort anyway Mark

In reply to mark s:

Certainly not E8 as the gear is good and protects the crux but would say E7 6b. Its 6a/6b to good hb 2 then your safe for the hard crux of 6b, So E7 is worthy but not top end due to the move up to gear,which is poss to place on a lead.

The reason it was pre placed(with quick draw) by dixon is because of the move was thin and unprotected,but it could then be clipped before the crux.
Dawes and nadin have done the route but not without pre place hb . julian lines was going to do it a few years back but never got round to it and suggested E7 .

So today mr sharrat soloed it! ! (mad *ucker) and is probably E8 for that but you have to give it a lead grade of E7 due to bomber gear!

Good effort mark . . . it needed to be done. Its a shame that not many folk get down to the Nth cloud as it is awsome.Judge is a brill line! !

Good effort again ..

J

In reply to mark s:
Well done Mark. JD has very sustained + hard climbing, so great effort. Nice that Dixon's indiscretion has been tidied up, but why solo? What on earth have you done to your mates that they won't belay you?

In reply to mark s:

Good effort Mark ! I was @ Newstones and Baldstones yesterday and conditions weren't that good - a bit damp.. so well done on your ascent you mad b*st*rd !

Can't comment on the grade tho.

Ben

In reply to Jon Read: i soloed it cause the gear is shite,1 h.b 1 after the first crux and i would not want to try and fiddle around with it on the lead.

In reply to Ben Tye: how are ya,it was a bit damp at nth but it was my second time on it and did not want to trudge all the way up there again.

In reply to mark s:
"i soloed it cause the gear is shite,1 h.b 1 "


No the gear is good and its before the crux and its ok to place so why the solo you mad mother f*cker . . .

E7 sound right . . .

In reply to mark s:

Brilliant effort Mark. You are completely mad though. You're starting to make Justin look sensible.

On the same crag, has anyone done Klingons or, as at seems to be, the 'direct start' to Pillar of Judgement?

In reply to mark s:
I also seem to remember (from the comfort of a toprope, I must add) that it was pretty hard to place the gear, as it came mid-crux for me. Will have to have another look! You are clearly quite bonkers, Mark....

In reply to mark s:

Good effort Mark. Looks like you are going pretty well at the moment. Will have to meet up soon at the Roaches if there is anything left that you haven't done.

In reply to Abe: (justin)i would if i could have.

In reply to mark s:

It may be hard to place on a lead but it is ok gear. .
just carnt even begin to think how much i would shit myself on the bloody thing on a solo. . .. It has to be up there with the grit wests madest solos like Nadins solo of loculas lie ect . . ..

Twas a fine and insane effort. Whats next?

Knocking on heavens door .
Doctor doolittle thats a slab and E10 . You just know you want that grade . . . . . .. .


Til then .

In reply to Cag ball: aye up bro,is that rope a bit tight?

In reply to mark s:
sound as a pound, needed to be done
gradewise, it is what it felt like to you mate, only you can comment as noone else here has done it!
i agree about placing dodgy gear on lead, best not to and focus the mind on the climbing i reckon!

+ how many stars, is it any good? it always looked a bit close to the arete, once you are on it is it a pure line?

top effort mark keep it up. Is it a good route?

c u @ the weekend

In reply to Cag ball: doctor doolittle solo? E11 ?

In reply to dan: its 2 or 3 stars,you dont go on the arete.prety much up the middle

gareth.those tablets worked,stopped the pain,have to get some.

In reply to chimp:

" how many stars, is it any good? it always looked a bit close to the arete, once you are on it is it a pure line?"

It is two knocking on for three as the climbing is very very good.Lots of slaby smeary moves to gear and a leftward slanting (non) crack .This is where the technical crux is.It is very pure in its line and just to look at it is three stars.Awsome !

It is enough to send the shivers up anyones spine when you see how high the crux is . . . Then think of it being soloed . . . then think im glad i wasnt there to watch it. . . Crazy stuff . im scared to go out with him any more. . Bloody nutter . . .


J

In reply to justin critchlow:
Any pictures of the route so we can see how mad this is?
Cheers

In reply to mark s: I'm a little puzzled. I thought the E system was designed for an on sight lead.

A hard route is usually put up as a head point because the climber wants to push the limits of what he can do, but the grade he gives it is supposed to be for a true lead. I have always thought that this was something of a paradox as often many years go by till the route is climbed ground up with no prior beta knowledge.

I'm not sure what soloing has do do with it. Thats a totally different game and extreemly hard to grade. A solo is always a big achievement, but can never affect the lead grade. Are you saying the lead grade was wrong?

Well climbed anyway.

Paul

In reply to paul: "it cannot affect the lead grade" it can when you have to solo it to do it ,it was done with pre placed gear before

In reply to mark s:

He's a bloody pussy compared to mike weeks!

In reply to Anonymous: pussy eh! i least i dont hide my f*cking name,you are the f*cking pussy boyo!!!!!!!!!!

In reply to Anonymous:


Pussy ?








Didnt know you could get a 6ft, E8 climbing pussy? That was a very bizzare statment coming from mr Anonymous . . . .. . . .

In reply to mark s:

I think what Pauls trying to say mark is that if there is gear on the route (which there is) and it can be placed on lead (which a lot of people seem to indicating it can - although with some difficulty) then why up the grade for a solo ascent as its just a solo of a route that can be lead in a safer style?? It'd be like upping the grade of Wings to E5 or 6 just because of not placing the friend (an example, not a suggestion)

One other thing about this gear - as previously mentioned, there seems to be a lot of people saying it can be placed on lead etc etc - so why have none of these people done so?? (or maybe they have and we just don't know about it) just curious

top effort anyway mark

In reply to StuartM: how are you stu? if you are pre pared to take both hands off stood on a 1/4 inch slopeing edge and fiddle about with gear ,then give it a little pull to test it ,then yeah it has gear.if it came out you would land on your head from 10 meters

In reply to justin critchlow:
a 6ft, pussy?

Wow, what a mental image, I'll get me waders

In reply to mark s:

Good response and nice image

I knew there was a reason why I don't climb anything remotely hard or dangerous

In reply to mark s:
well you have sold me on the route, i think i will try it sometime, i will also try the arete to the right, it looks amazing, (top rope practise of course, i dont trust those dodgy 1989 grades!)

In reply to mark s: Good effort mark, seems like you're f*cking nuts

In reply to mark s: hmmmm doesn't sound that appealing really does it!

things not bad out here - if you see AndiT tell him i've got the go ahead to have the whole of March off work if he's still on for a trip to Oz (not sure what e mail address etc he's using these days)