UKC

I'm a lot stronger on steep indoor routes than I used to be, but am pretty much useless at anything at all steep outside... I think it's because it takes me so long to work out what to do outside that by the time I have, my strength has just seeped away. ie My strength for moving up steep ground isn't bad, and I can keep doing that for several indoor routes so I don't feel my stamina is bad, but my stay-hanging-on-in-one place strength is poor.... is there a term for that sort of strength, and how do you improve it? All I can think of is climbing slowly?

In reply to gingerkate:

one training technique is to make a move, hold it for, say, five seconds, then make the next move. This requires a patient belayer and no queue for the route!

In reply to gingerkate: I don't know about a name for it, but I guess it will probably come down to core strength in the end.

Dead hangs are probably a good place to start, just to get your arms used to holding your bodyweight, and then knee raises.

Also, when you are climbing play the five second rule, hover your hand over your next hold for 5 seconds before you grab it.

In reply to Tall Clare and lynda:
Cheers! Will try it and see how I get on

In reply to gingerkate:

basically, you need more stamina. The advice to not rush up stuff at the wall, but climb more slowly is good advice.

Also, you should look at whether you are actually climbing efficiently. Lots of people who tire quickly when working out sequences are holding on too hard. It is amazing the improvement you can see if you learn to relax on the holds, and use the minimum grip possible.

Try this; when slightly below a bolt on a good hold get in a nice stable position and slowly relax your grip, and keep relaxing to the point where you actually fall off. Most people are stunned how little they need to grip to stay on.

Obviously it can be hard to do this once the nerves set in, but again that can be trained at the wall. Simply repeat the above exercise getting slightly higher above the bolt each time. Your body then gets used to relaxing when you are nervous.

Worth a whole grade for most people...

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

Thats a great piece of advice, I'll try that next time I'm at the wall!

In reply to midgets of the world unite:
Thank you, that sounds excellent advice ... I'm quite sure I do often hang on too hard but hadn't any idea how to improve that.

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

thanks for the tip...will have to give it a go.

In reply to chassy:

it does sound good doesn't it?

new on on me too from my admittedly casual reading - ta

In reply to lynda: had another thought too. When you are down at the climbinging wall, try climbing feet on features only (if your climbing wall has them). That will make you more aware of body position, slow your climbing down and work on the core muscles.

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

This is precisely what my pair of training gloves with pressure sensitive finger pads was designed to train. You wear the gloves and try to climb a route using the least pressure possible on the pads. Only problem is I have no money (or idea) how to make them. Maybe I should go on the dragons den, I reckon they'd be up for it and if they weren't at least I could slap them all around the head with my prototype (knitted) versions.