UKC Forums - Ball nuts are they any good.

Ball nuts are they any good.

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Dave Searle 18 Nov 2008

has anyone got any and used them? are they a good alternative to micro cams?

d_b 18 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle: I use them a bit.

They seem pretty good in narrow, parallel sided cracks - I place them quite a lot on limestone. I don't know how they compare to micro cams as I have never used one.

OP Dave Searle 18 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle: yer i was thinking they might be good for limestone. recently the climbs i have been doing/trying require smaller gear but having never seen a ball nut in the flesh i don't know what to think.

remus Global Crag Moderator 18 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle: I havent used them myself, but i think the general opinion of them is pretty good. Theyre meant to be a bit of a beast to get out, though. Especially if you fall on them.

Boy Global Crag Moderator 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle: For parralel sided slots below friend 0 there is nothing better. Sizes 1-3 cover this range. They are a lot stronger than the tiniest of tiny camming devices too.

petellis 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle:

> has anyone got any and used them? are they a good alternative to micro cams?

yep, they do work well, but bear in mind you need a deeper crack to put them in than you do with a micro cam.

CurlyStevo 19 Nov 2008

In reply to petellis:
not necessarily. They go in shallower vertical cracks than micro cams. Also the size two ball nut you can lead above and is smaller than any cam (well certainly any cam rated for leading on anyways)

John_Hat 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle:

Have a couple, use them often, they appear much more robust than similar cam sizes (Wild Country zeros).

However have not yet fallen on one, so have not done a full end-to-end test really!

petellis 19 Nov 2008

In reply to CurlyStevo:

> (In reply to petellis)
> not necessarily. They go in shallower vertical cracks than micro cams. Also the size two ball nut you can lead above and is smaller than any cam (well certainly any cam rated for leading on anyways)

aye fair point - the blue one is smaller than any cam I've seen (and pretty strong as well) and you could get it in a narrow vertical but the larger sizes go up to nearly an inch across. I dunno how they comepare with micro cams strength wise but I'd imagine they're pretty good.

CurlyStevo 19 Nov 2008

In reply to petellis:
yeah I owned a blue one. Pretty much never found good placements for it. Eventually lost the thing. The red one is great though

petellis 19 Nov 2008

In reply to CurlyStevo:

> (In reply to petellis)
> yeah I owned a blue one. Pretty much never found good placements for it. Eventually lost the thing. The red one is great though

Hehe - I was in the gear shop the other day thinking hmmmm, I don't reeeeely need one, but I do want one.... lack of funds keeps me from buying that sort of kit though.

WestslopeColo 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle: They work. They are a bugger to get out if you fall on them though!
Jon

Humpty Dangler 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle:

I have one on my rack of small wires that gets used frequently, being half-way between a cam and a wire. It is narrower than a cam, so easier to place angled downwards, and expands into parallel cracks. Haven't fallen on it, (yet), but it seems solid enough.

Phil Payne 19 Nov 2008

In reply to Dave Searle:

I have one, as new, never used, think it's a blue one but would have to dig it out to check. £20 posted if anyone is interested.

Also got lots of other random aid type gear that I'm trying to sell. Was wanting to get into aiding and started buying loads of gear, then lost all enthusiasm for it.