UKC

I've been roped into a family holiday in Mallorca in August against my better judgement, but it seems where we are staying is really close to this ridge (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=126768) has anybody done it or know anything about it?

My wife didn't immediately say no when I suggested we do it - which is sort of her way of saying yes . But looking for more info I've only found some pics on the web (http://gallery.rocksportmallorca.com/thumbnails.php?album=20) and a youtube video, but nothing really beyond that.

Anyone know if it's easy to buy maps in Mallorca? Or if there is an English (or French if necessary) description for this scramble in any guide?

In reply to TobyA:

dont need a map, done it twice, its excelelnt and a bit exciting in places
(assuming the full ridge from the sea)


http://www.psych.york.ac.uk/~rob/pix/climbing/spain/majorca-easter-05-YAC/P... is a picture of it

and

http://www.psych.york.ac.uk/~rob/pix/climbing/spain/majorca-05-petes/Pages/...

onwards for a few

In reply to lithos:

description, follow the ridge on the left hand side mostly,
till the end


take lots of water

In reply to lithos: Lithos - thanks a lot! A few basic questions - how long did you take? Did you use a rope at all/much? I've done lots of classic UK scrambles with my wife - Aonoch Egach, Grib Goch in winter conditions, Striding - again in winter nick, and also some alpine routes - Cosmiques, Petit Aiguile Verte, etc, so she fine scrambling but we both might want a rope if it's tricky. What was your experience?

What are the logistics like? Parking? Do you need a lift from the far end etc? We're staying with my Mum and Dad, so that's probably doable if necessary.

Thanks again.

In reply to TobyA:

should write an article really (assuming the full traverse)

ok you park as for bocca valley in the soon (yea right) to be built estate.

walk along the valley till you reach the sea, follow the left hand
headland on a fairly level traverse across slabs and the grave yard (full
of animal/bird bones!) to the sea/end where there is metal work, now up
via an fairly obvious chimney - grade 2/3 i guess, then follow the ridge
for quite a while. You pass a plaque to local climbers who died at a
particularly exposed and scary bit which can be avoided on the LHS - i've
done done both ways- tis scary! After that it's quite easy
till you reach about 1/2 way where the main described route starts.
It goes up a improbable white tower at about Grade 2. after that its dead easy

you descend eventually to the road (i think we did it differen first time
to a track by a hut following power lines) and we walked/ran back for the cars

to bring them back with water for the others. I guess its about 2 miles
back to the cars (past a supermarket for water and ice cream!)

first time no rope, 2nd time we took a rope for a very nervous scrambler
most did it without. You'd be fine. It can be friable which i worrying in
places but always on jugs (the drop is HUGE on the RHS almost vertical)


time taken about 4..5 hours or so could do it faster or slower

In reply to lithos:

Toreador (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=2022) has some photos as well

http://climbing.me.uk/Mallorca/6th/index.html


if you can get lift thats even better, get dropped at start
and picked up well wherever you end i bet google maps can help here
lets have a look

In reply to TobyA:

There is a description in this book: http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/488/title/walking-in-mall...
You can find the relevant section on Google books if you are feeling like a cheapskate!

I think it took us about 5 hours by the described route (i.e. not starting at the far end of the ridge). We took a rope, and used it on one short downclimbing section, which looked harder than it actually was, so it wasn't really necessary.

You can park in Port de Pollenca and also finish there no problem, though getting a pick up in Cala de Sant Vicenc would save a bit of walking.

Other worthwhile trips include Massanella (via Coll des Prat: good if rather short scramble), Puig Tomir, and wandering along the ridges from the Cuber Dam to l'Ofre (and beyond).

In reply to TobyA:


As far as i recall you can't get a vehicle to the far (sea)end. I've done it a few times, used a rope once when we ascended from near the far end but only used the rope to protect ourselves to get onto the ridge once on the ridge we didn't use it. Also done it twice from the other end and come off at the col part way along... didn't use a rope at all and would say i have similar mountaineering experience as yourselves

In reply to lithos:
what he says.

I'm told that if you take a rising traverse to approach, instead of a level one, then you miss out all of the loose scary stuff, and just get the solid bits on the ridge itself. But no idea if this is true, or how easy the route would be to find.

In reply to Mark Bull:

If you want a map (not really necessary for the Caval Bernat) then this is probably the best one: http://www.walking.demon.co.uk/maldcmap.htm

In reply to lithos:

here ya go

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&ie=UTF8&ll=39.917307,3.093939&...

ridge runs from obvious square bay at top and is in shadow on its west
(RHS). you can see that path amd where we finnished below the
roundabout on the left edge (assuming it loks similar on your machine)

In reply to Mark Bull:
The version in the Cicerone book is only part of the ridge, it misses out the hardest (most fun!) bits.

In reply to Toreador:


Yes, sorry, should have made that clear.

In reply to Mark Bull:

Oh, and don't wear shorts: there's a fair bit of spiny vegetation about, especially on the way down!

In reply to Mark Bull:


??? most of us were in shorts - it was fine not like the bernia ridge descent

In reply to TobyA:
It will be uncomfortably hot to do this during the day in August, you will need a very early start

In reply to Robert Bennett:


Yeah, I was worried about that, and was thinking alpine start! The Cicerone guide seemed to say any time of year is OK because of sea breezes and ok humidity. Do people think differently?

In reply to TobyA:

yeah it will be bloody boiling !

In reply to lithos:


Maybe we got a bit off route......

In reply to TobyA:

I recall it being very easy - hardly a scramble (very exposed though) and only taking a couple of hours. The rock is horrendously rough and spiky though - no tripping over!

Chris

In reply to TobyA:

Would make three suggestions:

1. Get up early.

2. Take lots of water.

3. Take a rope.

Good luck!

Mick

In reply to TobyA:

A slight aside, but I noticed from a car as we returned from the end of the Formentor Peninsular itself, that there is a truely enormous sea-cave at the end of the ridge - attempting to sort out a boat-trip to there would be well worth it - especially if you've got a camera!

PP.

In reply to all: Thanks to everyone for their help and advice.

Whilst I seem to have a bunch of Mallorca climbing experts watching, can I ask if anyone has any suggestions of sports cliffs where I might be able to gratuitously crowbar a few more routes into my family's non-climbing holiday? Basically any cliffs close to nice beaches where my little kids can play with their grandparents for a bit whilst my wife belays me? Low to middle grade would be best, I'm pants on 6b and above (at least Finnish granite ones, although I seem to remember from dim memory that French limestone 6as were much easier than their nordic counterparts, but I may just be getting older), and with any F4s and 5s, my missus might enjoy seconding.

In reply to TobyA:

Cala Magraner http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1752 Basically loads of climbs next to an sea inlet with a sheltered bay to swim in.

There's a pretty decent spread of grades from 3+ upwards and it's in a nice setting. The only downside is that its about a 20-30 min walk from the car so it depends on how far you can persuade the family to walk. It's not a tourist beach so there's no facilities (toilets, ice cream, cafes etc).

In reply to Fiona Reid:

second that its a great place - the bay of pigs is my nickname as there was a herd ??? of pigs on the beach with wee ones as well first time we went.

the walk in is easy/flat.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

The way we went I thought it was a hard serious scramble to get onto the ridge proper, then easier afterwards. Did you tarverse to the far end at sea level, or higher up?

In reply to Fiona Reid:

Cala Magraner is a great crag but loads of the bolts were utterly skanky (ie rusted) in Nov last year. Didn't stop us having a fun day, although major overgripping all round to avoid any falls.

In reply to Toreador:

We hit it three quarters of the way out to the tip, then went 'there and back' on that section - maybe why we found it straight-forward?

Chris

In reply to Fiona Reid:
If it is hot on the ridge in August as it will be, Cala Magraner will be even hotter!

In reply to TobyA:

There's quite a few nice sport routes at tijuana very close to cala santanyi which is a lovely beach. and there's also some fairly easy DWS there with great landings if you fancy that too

In reply to dja:

climbed there which was fun (better bolts!) - more urban than
bay of pigs and - didnt find that beach - sounds good - next time.

In reply to TobyA:

It's a brilliant route. I can't remember how long we took, but probably no more than half a day - I know we took a picnic lunch and festered for a bit taking in the views. Extremely exposed in places including a natural "bridge" with a hole through the ridge under it.

As has been said the rock is razor sharp and in shorts you will get scratched legs, not to mention an uncomfortable descent through the maquis.

You won't need a map, it's obvious. It's like a Majorcan Cuillin Ridge, but much shorter, and less chance of rain. In August it will be very very hot, so loads of water, sunscreen, and a broad rimmed hat recommended.

We did it in November and I went with my wife who is a walker, not a climber. She loved it. We didn't take or need a rope although it's not for nervous scramblers who may need a confidence rope for a few sections.

so did you do it ?

In reply to lithos: Leave on Sunday. The last couple of weeks I was in Sweden, where once again the top beta gleaned through the power of UKC took me to some cool crags, even if it was only for brief -with-the-kids- climbs.

In reply to TobyA: Im currently sat by a pool just outside pollensa and it's bloody boiling. I've done 4 bike rides and 4 runs since we've been here, all early morning, apart from a 6pm ride out to formentor and it's been dead sweaty even then. I've got a map called "Mallorca tour and trail" which is 1:40,000 scale and is pretty good. If you fancy a bike ride you can get a decent roadie from procycle hire in Porto pollensa for €25 a day.

In reply to TobyA:

We had a great day. Walked up from P. Pollensa. You can make the scrambling as hard and exposed as you wish. There is a little traverse out to a ledge on the far side of the obvious 'peak' half way along, which is exciting but easy. There were goats on the ledge when we got there. It did take a surprisingly long time (6 hours IIRC), but we did spend a long time taking photos, and scrambling. Descend straight to Cala Boquer after returning from the end, with no great difficulty.

We also drank 3 litres water each!!

In reply to all: Thanks for all the advise and help folks - we did the first half of ridge last thursday. Pics and short report here: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2009/08/mallorca-1-on-ridge.html

In reply to TobyA:

Well done!

Good pics - brought back a few good memories. Thanks for sharing this.

In reply to TobyA:

Excellent your blog & pictures have just helped me convince the wife to tackle it when we are out in mid September.

Cheers

In reply to aquazepp: Have fun! Hopefully it will just be pleasantly warm then, rather than ferociously hot.