UKC

Easter Island @ IIam Rock

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 Owen W-G 10 Aug 2009
 Moacs 10 Aug 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:

Sounds like you went left too soon (and hence onto The White Edge, E3 6a). Easter Island follows the arete until the final break below the top and then steps left into the square groove (a few feet higher than the climber's head in your photo).

If it's any consolation (it won't be), I had a 'mare going the correct way!

J
 The Grist 10 Aug 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:

I remember going up the slab and almost going to the right edge of the slab at one point. Went out left onto the steep ground at the last possible moment. It felt a bit chossy but I think I went the right way. Felt about e1.

OP Owen W-G 10 Aug 2009
In reply to Moacs:

That's reassuring. I thought it felt the hardest E1 I'd done by some margin. Bloody steep round on the left face.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 10 Aug 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:

The guy in the photo is on the correct line having rambled up the rock/two veg right of the arete below him. There is a big thread in the break above him, then you swing left round the arete into the final leaning groove.

Chris
OP Owen W-G 10 Aug 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Oh dear, I swung around the arete about 3 or 4m below the guy in the photo, foothold-less jug hauling on steep ground with decrepid pegs before a gasping audience was all a bit much for me. The finishing groove felt 'ard too, but my mojo had taken a beasting by then.
In reply to Owen W-G: Think positive - you had a really good go at an E3. Your grades are on the way up!
 steveb2006 11 Aug 2009
In reply to Owen W-G: Starting up Easter Island then moving left into the crack on the south side (the one you mention - that starts below and left of the climbers feet) is arguably the best route up the arete - it misses out the desperate start of White Edge by starting up Easter Island, then avoids the the duff vegetated bit of Easter Island. (where this goes right before moving back left to arete) by moving into the crack of White Edge and following this straight to the final groove of Easter Island. I thought this E2 5c - the crack on the face is the crux and is pretty strenuous as I guess you found.
 Si dH 11 Aug 2009
In reply to Moacs:
Easter Island doesnt follow the arete all the way - as others have said it goes left up soem vegetated rubbish for awhile to avoid the hardest part of the arete, which is too hard for E1.
In reply to Si dH:

Er -- I think you mean on the right for the start.
 Si dH 11 Aug 2009
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
oops - yes I did, sorry!
 Silum 12 Aug 2009
In reply to Si dH:

The arête is standard E1 all the way, I can't even imagine going onto that chossy crap just to lower the grade!

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