UKC

Thinking about one or the other this weekend if the weather holds. Which is more suited for a bumbly punter who can get up 5+/6a. Have seen the downloads off leeds wall website but thought there may be new routes that aren't listed or reccommendations for routes at my grade

In reply to Andy Hudson:

That's my sort of grade and I've found them both good (but then I've not been to loads of sport crags...) I think that Foredale might possibly have more to go at, and it has the advantage of longer routes, but I'd recommend both climber and belayer to wear helmets as there's a lot of loose rock.

At 5+ I really liked Wandering Warthog at Foredale.

In reply to Andy Hudson:

Foredale may suit you best if it dries up over the next couple of days but Gigg South is quicker drying if the weather stays unsettled.

There are a few new routes in your grade range at Foredale since the December update but all but one are now included in the main route database http://www.theleedswall.co.uk/ymc/newroutes.php3 You can download individually from this.

The latest offering, not on the database yet, is a good long 6a+ between Its Lifebouy and The Upshot is finishing up a really good jamming crack - something a bit different from the usual Foredale style.

Giggleswick hasn't much new at all this year.

In reply to Dave Musgrove:



Ooh, I climbed a variant of this route on Saturday. I did all of The Upshot and then trended left and up the crack on this new route. Don't think it changes the 6b+ grade of Upshot but was splendid fun!

I agree the top section is a bit different from the Foredale norm.

To the OP: Black magic is a superb 30m *** 6a at Foredale which is well worth doing.

In reply to Andy Hudson:

Probably more to go at in that grade range at Foredale but it's all a bit unmemorable compared to the main wall. Take a lid for the belayer too and generally treat the stars with a bucket of salt - they're certainly not on the same scale everyone else uses although the climbing is generally pleasant enough.

If it's windy or has been raining then Giggleswick may be a better bet, however as it's much more sheltered and dries out quickly.

In reply to Andy Hudson:
We've recently had our first couple of visits to Foredale and been very impressed. I'd say it is the best of the middle-grade (5+ - 6b) Yorkshire sports crags we've visited so far. Much preferred it to Gigg South, Robin Proctors or Trow Gill for reasonable grading, friendly bolting and quality of rock. Certainly on the popular routes on the Main Wall, the rock seemed fine and the climbing very enjoyable. Also an excellent base for picknicking, and a good outlook.

We thought Dark Secrets (5+), Black Jack (6a) and Ace of Spades (6a+) were all excellent and worth all their stars. Ace of Spades in particular has superb positions, and a memorable exposed move left if you are too short to clip the bolt before making it - thought it was as good as any of the similarly graded routes I've done at Pen Trywn or Portland!

Have fun!

Cheers
Andy

In reply to Andy Cairns:

All this gushing over gigg south and foredale, methinks people need to get out more. (he says having climbed twice in the last 3 months!)

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Foredale much better than Gigg South imo but, as you say, it's all relative to low/mid-grade Sports climbing in Yorkshire/UK. Carry on along the A65 to Cumbria for real quality climbing!

In reply to Andy Cairns:

Ye gods!

If you think that those are worth their stars then come on over to the Lakes - you'll be wanting the starring system extended to ten star routes!!

Take two or three stars off most if not all the recent low-grade developments in Yorkshire and you'll be in line with most areas. Giving routes like Ace of Spades and the Wandering Warthog three stars is simply further abuse of the starring system.

In increasing quality for sub F7a sport:

Foredale
<big gap>
Gigg South
Gigg North
Blue Scar Right hand walls
Robin Proctor's
Trow Gill

ALC

In reply to Andy Cairns:

I was too short to clip that bolt on Ace of Spades! Plus there was green slime running down the crack of the overlap when I tried it which was my main excuse for wimping out.

Its most definately on the list for a repeat though, looks brilliant.

In reply to Eagle River:

a poor excuse.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Ha!

Lets not get into recent climbing form, miss backs off a VDiff.

In reply to Eagle River:

Dignity? Whassat then?

My flapper is seeping, btw. As it were.
Does that sound wrong?
Er...

In reply to a lakeland climber:


I'd swap GS for foredale - the main wall's ok at Foredale. And you're forgetting our newest venue - Castleberg - so you can put that in with an ever bigger gap at the top of the list!

In reply to a lakeland climber:


Er, of course I forgot about all that bolted mountain rock in the lakes!

I thought the OP was after low grade sport.


I disagree, there aren't many sport venues in this country where you can climb 30m routes at low grades with some good moves and, on the whole, reasonable rock. The main walls at Foredale give this and it is quite unique for it.

The star ratings are highly subjective and opinions vary greatly from person to person.

Personally, I think that many of the starred multi pitch routes in the lakes feature some particularly crappy and unmemorable pitches!


FWIW I would add Panorama Crag. Quite rare around these parts to get such a steep crag featuring such reasonable grades.

I'd also swap Gigg South with Gigg North and reduce the gap between Foredale and Gigg South to make them equal!!!

I understand that High and Low Stoney Bank are quite good too although I haven't been myself.

All the above is meant in light-hearted fashion by the way. I love the lakes really, but I'm also pretty fond of yorkshire limestone!

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Shocking! How dare you!

In reply to a lakeland climber:

Since the OP was about low grade Yorkshire sport routes, I was trying to keep things in that context - didn't seem much point in comparing to Lakes routes like Saxon, Sidewalk, Equus etc, all of which I've done.

Yes, they're in a different league, but I have had a couple or good days out recently at Foredale (which was dry!), and comparing like for like I do reckon they are worth the stars, to help differentiate from similar areas when making the choice.

Cheers
Andy