UKC

Me and my pal are off to El Chorro for a few days, we are not hard sports climbers and realize we are quite limited as most stuff seems at the higher end of the spectrum, we've got the Rockfax guide but some personal insight from folks would be nice. Currently working around VS and can get dragged up an HVS every now and then. I guess we'll be doing sports mostly but will have a smallish emergency rack.

In reply to GarnettJames:

there are quite a few 5's and 6a's to have a go at, in fact I remember quite a few brilliant 6a's so i'm sure you'll have fun. We went before the Rockfax and found the guidebook useless so i'm sure youll have better luck than us anyway.

In reply to GarnettJames: go to val de abdaljalis. loads of low grade sport routes on quality rock. its in the rockfax guide.

In reply to Jack: Hi

You'll get two days or more out out of Escalera Arabe - Sector Sergio to Suiza. These routes are slabby and on good rock. It's also the most picturesque area of Chorro. It would be well worth your while putting some time into redpointing into the lower sixes as there are some nice routes on Arabe proper.

There are some decent routes on Sector Castrojo- eg Un Monton de Chatarra 6a - slabby but a bit polished.

Sector Austria has some decent routes on generally good rough rock.

If you find yourselves going well its definitely worth heading up to desplomilandia and Buena Sombra. Routes are long and interesting with almost a trad feel.

People say Los Cotos is best for lower grade climbers but apparently it is very polished - I've not been there.

But yeah - get stuck into redpointing and you might be surprised what you can get up.

Another vote for Sectors Suiza, Suizo, and Austria. Also check out Poema de Roca (pretty much all F7s and up) even if its just to see the cave, some really impressive climbs and climbers there when I went.

We also did the first two pitches of Amptrax, which if memory serves correct are around F6a+?

Loads of fairly easy routes around the route 'Welcome to el chorro' which I THINK is in Suiza... someone may like to correct me on that.

From what i recollect, Los Cotos does have some easier climbs, but from memory the bolts all looked pretty ancient.

Also, definately check ouot the gorge if you have a rest day, well worth the treck... not that i did it... because you're not allowed.....

Have fun mate, it's a fantastic place.

In reply to GarnettJames:

Los Cotos - Mega polish. Comment being made from someone who climbs regularly in Avon gorge

cheers chaps, all duly noted.

Bugger we were looking at Los Cotos as a fall back plan!

In reply to Jack:

Yep, that's a good crag.

In reply to GarnettJames: los cotos are fine - we had a great day ther and some of the routes aren't polished at all

When are you going, i'm going out there around the 17th of November and will be aiming for 5's - 6b's. Up for a climb if your around?

In reply to Tom_Harding: Wold have been. Going out on Sunday and coming back the following friday :0(

In reply to GarnettJames: All good, can you email me with the what the weather has been like when you get back?

Have fun

In reply to Tom_Harding: Sure will

In reply to GarnettJames: yes just got back...rockfax quide is accurate enough. If you plan to do the second half of the Caminito Del Rey-(Kings Walkway) I would take some trad gear as the second gorge wasn't protected as far as I could see...again big open spaced gaps, so we roped up to scramble past. You need to either do the walkway to get round to Los Cotos or to stay in the shade although you are very high up when in the gorge. The railway tunnel is officially not allowed and It was said that people using it were fined, however we met a couple of walkers who pleaded their innocence and got away with it.

Just got back. What a marvellous place! temperature about 26 -28 but it's been quite windy and occassionally a handy bit of cloud cover. The Kings walk was marvellous and it was fully protected by a cable the whole way, the only scary bit was the initial crossing the blown up bits to get up to the paths start-This was protected by iron handles you could sling yourself to. No part was unprotected. Los Cotos wasn't that great, we did a 4+ there that was harder than the one 6A we did at Valle de abdalagis. It's pretty polished-perhaps better if you're doing 6 and up, the climbing community there wasn't too fond of it though. Escalera Arabe was very nice. The rock is amazing and sooo grippy, spent a couple of days there -lots of 4s and 5s.

Lastly, The Olive Branch is the best Campsite/bunkhouse in El Chorro, within walking distance of some good crags with marvellous views, a really hospitable couple run it and it feels like home from home, it seems to be a bit of a climbers mecca, we met a nice bunch of people there. Cannot reccomend it highly enough.

In reply to GarnettJames:




Thanks for comments on Olive Branch.
In truth there are not too many great routes below 6a around Chorro.
Escalara Arabe has some decent ones and Abdalajis has plenty if you like that style of slab climbing.
Los Cotos must have something decent but I have never found it.
Oh, sector Momia has three decent 5+'s.

In reply to martin heywood: Hiya Martin, Just enough for us for four days, could have seen us starting solidly on the 6's if we'd been there more than a week. Oh well, back to work now and the gradual decrease in climbing ability...