UKC

Off to the Ecrins for first continental ice in January. Climbing II/II maybe IV. Not expecting terrible weather or temps. - wrong? Would appreciate your feedback on anything I should/shouldn't take - current list below. Appreciate it's a personal preference, conditions change day-to-day, flight weight limitations (hoping to get away with in 23kg plus 2 bits hand luggage - optimistic?)

cheers!

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Polyester kecks
Liner socks
Thermal socks
2 pairs thin long johns
1 pair powerstretch pants

1 pair midweight softshell pants
1 pair heavyweight softshell pants
1 pair heavy waterproof bibs

3 wicking T shirts
3 wicking longsleeve tops
1 powerstretch hoody
1 hoody windproof
1 hardshell jacket
1 primaloft bodywarmer
1 thin hoodless primaloft jacket
1 fat primaloft hooded parka jacket

Balaclava
Buff
Googles/ safety specs

1 pair powerstretch gloves
1 pair thin softshell gloves
1 pair thick waterproof climbing gloves
1 pair windstopper flip mitts
1 pair fleece lined mitts
1 pair primaloft over mitts

Helmet
B3s
Gaiters
Crampons
Axes
Double spring leash
Alpine sit harness, 2 caritool tool clippers
60m 9.5mm dry single/ half rope
Rope protector

Rack
Bod harness
ATC + twistlock
Screws: 1x 12cm, 1x 15cm, 2x 17cm, 2x 19cm, 1x 22cm
Threader
1 Bulldog
1 Warthog
Quickdraws: 3x 20cm, 3x 30cm
3 Screamers
Slings: 3x 60cm, 1x 120cm, 1x 240cm.
4 Screwgates
5m 7mm ab tat

Rucksack
Whistle, first aid kit, phone
Sitsmats rectangle
Thermos, drink bottle
Dry bags
2up bothy bag

In reply to iksander:

Personally, I prefer to climb ice on double ropes - any particular reason you're choosing a single?

In reply to groovy_nut: Agreed, good point - I'm not either, planning on my partner supplying a rope (and half a dozen screws too) and I didn't have the budget for a pair of 60m dry ropes, so I got a light single "do it all"/compromise rope.

In reply to iksander:

dont think youre missing anything.

could forgo;
1 pair of the long johns
the heavyweight softshell pants
2 of the wicking t shirts
2 of the wicking longsleeves
the windproof hoody
the fat synthetic parka
the fleece mitts
the sit harness
1 of the screamers
1 of the screwgates
the twistlok on the atc

unless youre wading thru snow you could ditch the gaiters too.

all id add would be another 5m of cord for v-threads and some ready tied prussicks.
and make sure youve got a knife.

what youre left with will work efficiently and cut a few kgs.

im a fan of going in light, thrashing your stuff till its filthy and limping home in the cleanest gear youve got, maybe buying a cheap shirt.

lump all that extra clothing and you will use it even tho you dont have to.
also, do what the euros do and use wire gates for anything that doesnt have a moving rope thru it (excet runners of course) and 2 back to back when it does.
more useful than screwgates. you will find (aside from runners and the atc) not much really needs a screwgate except for your primary clip in point.

have a good time yeah. let us know how you go

In reply to ice.solo: Cheers solo, I am a native of the light 'n smelly school, but 15 yrs of domestication has taken its toll

In reply to iksander:

If I was been very pinickity I wouldn't bother with the warthog or bulldog.

In reply to iksander:

Fair enough about the ropes - I guessed it would be something like that.

I'd probably ditch the sitmat, unless it's part of your sack - if you want to sit on something without getting your bum cold and wet, sit on your sack (but make sure you're not going to squash anything vital.

But again, that's just me!

Also, you're taking a full rock rack? Do you think you'll need all of it for the routes you're planning? Maybe pare that down a bit.

In reply to iksander:

Wow - sounds like you're going to be super prepared - I wouldnt worrry at all. I've not climbed ice in the Ecrins, but have done a bit of continental stuff. I would agree that perhaps you're taking too much - you could probably get away with heavyweight softshell trousers, and thermal long john's for leg wear. Just wear (or not) the long johns as necessary. Have you got a down jacket? If not, then what you've got will be more than adequate, but I'd be tempted to take a duvet jacket, and ditch some of the other things. I honestly don't think you're going to be missing anything though - if anything, it's going to be about ditching half the stuff to save weight. For example, with gloves, thin, medium and the thickest, clumsiest, warmest you own will be fine. Don't plan on climbing in the super thick ones, but use them when you're walking in and out, or hanging around at the crag.

Oh, and with a whistle, plastic is better than metal - I've lost skin before!

Have a great time!

Tim

(p.s. at least you can look forward to a pint in the Prince of Wales when you get back - I used to live in Farnborough, and my word do I miss that place...)

In reply to iksander:

Hard to comment on the clothing cos its quite a personal thing.

Not to sure what rack refers to? Is this your full UK rock rack? If so I'd trim it down quite a bit to somewhere like half a set of nuts, 1 or 2 hex's plus a few pegs.

Cheers Dave

In reply to Mountain Llama: Thanks peeps, I know I'm obsessing

By "rack" I just meant collection of hardware. Not planning on a rock rack at all. The 'dog and 'hog I'm taking mostly for therapeutic purposes - nothing calms the soul like beating the hell out of something til it disappears up to the hilt (so, tell me about your mother...)

Agreed the danger is probably taking too much stuff, rather too little :/

In reply to iksander:

yes, bating the shit out of stuff feels good.

sadly ice hooks etc dont really get that satisfying that often. they suck to place.
screws are bad enough, but spectres and such require annoying placement into pick holes then delicate tapping. plenty get dropped.
and even then theyre questionable.

in turf theyre better, but when your climbing frozen soil you know anything will do.

theres good reason they rarely get used.

take em, but expect little more than to have them tangle your gear up.

a good familiar screw is always better than a dodgy hook, er...

In reply to groovy_nut:

yeah didn't see that.....the rock in the ecrins ice areas is mostly pretty terrible and what is solid is bolted were need be for belays....perhaps 2 or 3 pitons and 4-5 wires at most unless you're doing specific mixed routes.

btw - i love packing for trips vicariously ;p

In reply to iksander: Christ on a bike!!! You could clothe about three people for a full on winter mountain day with that lot.

You are taking

....2 longjohns and 1 powerstretch pants..three of essentially the same thing

....2 softshell pants...two of the same thing

....3 wicking tshirts and 3 wicking longsleeve tops. HOLY F*CK!!! 6 of the basically same thing. Take one long and one short?

....primaloft bodywarmer, primaloft hoodless jacket and primaloft hooded jacket...you only need 1

....1 powerstretch hoody and 1 hoody windproof....ditch at least one of these

....6 pairs of gloves!!!! HOLY F*CK!! 2 pairs to climb in seems sensible, and one thin pair for walk-ins etc.

....2 harnesses?? You are definitely kidding, right?

In reply to iksander: At a glance, I'd leave the following at home:

1 pair midweight softshell pants - your others will do fine
1 primaloft bodywarmer - have jacket, why the need?
1 Bulldog - bit of a technical peice and only tend to be used on routes harder than V
1 Warthog - good for turf and chalk, no where near as good for ice

Do have a great time as I hope I will be next week.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: "You could clothe about three people for a full on winter mountain day with that lot" So should be about right for one person a week? But yes I'm sure I have too much - I should get a little more comfortable with a bit of hum! I have been over domesticated

looking at this list no way do you have enough kit ,

clearly missing is a set of flares , a file for sharpening your crampons and axe tips mid route, a shovel , and a small saw for cutting blocks of ice to make an igloo as reasonable accomodation is hard to find. having been to the area a number of times , buiding igloos is very popular. : )

check out ceilac for a good starting place, enjoy , and climb as light as possible

In reply to nk:

I was actually contemplating taking a shovel after getting the hirecar stuck in the snow 3 times last year due to the driver being over ambitious and/or incompetent.

In reply to iksander:

Ditch the following items:

2 pairs thin long johns
1 pair midweight softshell pants
3 wicking T shirts
2 of the wicking longsleeve tops
1 hoody windproof
1 primaloft bodywarmer
1 thin hoodless primaloft jacket
1 pair windstopper flip mitts
1 pair fleece lined mitts
Rope protector
extra harness
1 Bulldog
1 Warthog
Thermos
3 Screamers
1 Screwgate
Sitsmats rectangle
Dry bags


Add to the list:

Half ropes
Pulley + prusiks (crevasse rescue)
8 Quickdraws (use 60cm slings doubled over instead of 20cm and 30cm extenders)
3 knife blade pitons
6 rocks
2 hexes


Where is the sleeping bag + mat?

In reply to iksander:

i tend to take a torch and a wooly hat (along with the balaclava)
compass
Maps
file can be handy, but might not be to bad if you stay away from the rock
wash kit
passport
sleeping bag

and what everyone else said about taking too many clothes.

In reply to chopin-smith:

>Where is the sleeping bag + mat?

Back in the cosy chalet

Not planning any multiday trips, should I take some for emergencies?