UKC

welsh winter climbing

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Stevo. c. 11 Feb 2010
Is there anyone here who could possibly tell me if Broad Gully in cwm Ffynon Lloar in the Carneddau is in condition at present looking to go on sat if it is.Thanks.
 Tony2 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Stevo. c.:

Climbed it last Sunday. Superb condition, which will have got better with the freeze this week. One party pitched the gully, we soloed it. A party on left hand Y Gully said they ran out of snow at one point only to regain good neve nearer the summit.
Stevo. c. 11 Feb 2010
Thanks alot Tony might chance it had a great time in glencoe 2 wkends ago and a brill time in the lakes last wkend just hopin to get this one in b4 the warmth returns!
 Andy Mountains 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Stevo. c.:

I did it yesterday, it was perfect neve from bottom to top.
As Mike says, check my blog: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Stevo. c. 11 Feb 2010
nice one excited now worried i had missed it, chomping at the bit now, this is my first time in the forums and its bloody great stuff!
In reply to Stevo. c.: Welcome to the madhouse Stevo

I had last weekend off but we've been having it good in North Wales this season...here's my blog which along with Trek's will show you what you've been missing.

Us low grade winter climbers have been having a ball

http://nicklivesey.wordpress.com/

Stevo. c. 11 Feb 2010
looks amazing mate the past 3 weeks all i seem to do is fill car up wi juice and head for the mountains costing me a small fortune matey but its worth every penny! Glencoe was amazing!
In reply to Stevo. c.: I bet it was

It's not just money though is it? I really needed a rest last weekend as it's been none stop work and then mountains every weekend...bloddy knackers you out but what can you do eh? We bloody love it
Stevo. c. 11 Feb 2010
tell me about it in 8 days i drove about 1300 miles! i get up every mornin at 4:30 for work then on sat i get up at 4 and either drive to snowdonia or the lakes do a bit of climbing the home 4 tea and beers great!
 Tony2 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Stevo. c.:
If you are here for the weekend then check out Parsley Fern, or the Trinity Face. All the high snow gullies are in condition at present...but be prepared to join the queues over the weekend.
 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Tony2:
> (In reply to Stevo. c.)...but be prepared to join the queues over the weekend.

>
A weekend to find the esoteric gems of the back corries.....
In reply to Tony2: I'm probably going for an early start on Trinity Face on Saturday but if anyone gets there before me bear in mind that I have reserved LH Trinity and form an orderly queue
 Mike Peacock 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson: I was pondering Caseg or Llyffant for something well out of the way. Long walk in though!
 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: Good luck, unless you're camping at the foot, I doubt you will be first up!

Just read your blog - some nice writing - good luck with your budding career. It would be good to see some features from 'middle-aged mid-grade wanderers' - as we form the bulk of the readership, rather than the minority grade VIII superstars that get all the column inches.
 Tony2 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson:
Hi Neil, noted your post about Parsley Fern yesterday. Are you the guy from Hereford we met as we topped out from Central Trinity?
 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Mike Peacock: Nice choice - Have you ever looked into the Arans - very quiet. Don't know if in nick today, but you can probally find out on here. or if we get a harder freeze Nantlle?

I see high trek climbed in Cwm uchaf today - I only thought yesterday - that looks a quiet place...I bet few climb there, and yet only a hour from Llanberis.

 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Tony2: yes - great day
 Tony2 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson:

Hi,
Yes it was really superb. The weather was great today too...but I ache too much to go out so soon . Love your comment about middle aged low graders..there are a lot of us about
 Mike Peacock 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson: Some of the Aran gullies look good. I wondered what the East Face of Ddualt would be like if the snow came lower too. Might be some nice easy lines.
 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Mike Peacock: I don't know that what's the map reference?
 Mike Peacock 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson: It's one of the southern Arenigs:
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/211691
 Neil Anderson 11 Feb 2010
In reply to Mike Peacock: Intriguing! nothing in my 'Mid-Wales' guide.

I've always wondered about Arenig Fawr as well - shown as cwm 51 in the frontspiece of Welsh Winter climbs - but nothing mentioned in the text.

Even Arenig Fach 825415 ?

great what a hard once in 20 yr winter brings to mind...
 Andy Mountains 12 Feb 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson:
>
> Just read your blog - some nice writing - good luck with your budding career. It would be good to see some features from 'middle-aged mid-grade wanderers' - as we form the bulk of the readership, rather than the minority grade VIII superstars that get all the column inches.

Thats pretty much why I started my attempt at a winter conditions blog. Although I love reading Baggys reports, and last winter it helped immensely with finding out which areas were 'in' (I live 55 miles away from Snowdonia so can't nip up there to check), I just thought it would be good to have some lower just grade reports also.
Basically the more information for N.Wales winter climbing the better I say!
And what a winter we have had so far, and it hasn't ended yet!
Heading back down there agin today, so will pop some more info on tonight.
In reply to trek: Yep, it's been superb so far and for us lower grade bods a very exciting couple of months. With blogs like yours (and Baggy's) and the Welsh Winter Conditions thread there has been a real buzz about everything.

Hope you all have a great weekend...I might bump into you
 mux 12 Feb 2010
In reply to trek: Where are you going trek?

I would been keen to know what condition the mixed stuff is in on Clogwyn Du...

A pal was there yesterday and said it wasnt in nic just yet...

(bit shocked that Travisty got done this week if that was the case)

....but one good night can make all the difference.

cheers
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:

Did Parsley Fern LH yesterday. Superb day and conditions ideal. Steep gd 11 neve all the way up. A great ice bulge pitch at half height which took 3 ice screws!. Descended back PYG track with views of Trinity Face. Central and LH looked in v.good nick. Ladies/Cave gullies are in but with some thin looking sections at the cruxes - would be interested to know what the parties on these thought about them. Great gully/Snowdrop not in.

P.S. a huge thank you to the couple who gave us a lift from Pen y pass back to our car by Ynys Ettws. It saved us a 40 min slog in the dark! If you're out there I hope you see this - MASSIVE THANK YOU!

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