UKC

Sorry,can't let this one pass bye. Lets talk bigger routes to get yourself totally psyched up to do or maybe you have already done...

Some I have enjoyed, and I am going to scatter my list around a bit...

Astroman (Yosemite) Just a pure class line
The West Face (Great Zawn) "The-line" of the zawn in my opinion
Doorpost (Bosigran) Classic and out there on big holds at the top pitch
Black Death (Hare Crag, Lake District) Rare granite and the hardest hereabouts

...and your choice?

In reply to M. Edwards:
Sou'ester Slabs and South Ridge Direct on Cir Mhor.

In reply to M. Edwards:

The Pause
Square Face
Lost Arrow Spire Tip
The Lotus Flower Tower

In reply to M. Edwards:

Nice one Mark, thought someone might do this.

Can they be one's that we want to do? Hope so, cause I sure as hell haven't done three of the following!

South Face Direct
Dream/Liberator
Widespread Ocean of Fear
The Nose - El Cap

In reply to M. Edwards:

maybe the compressor route or the Bonington Whillans route

In reply to M. Edwards:

The Grand Voyage

I am going to leave now

In reply to M. Edwards:

I'll add Steeple on The Shelterstone.

In reply to M. Edwards:
Central Groove (Dewrerstone) Best route of its grade I have climbed.

In reply to M. Edwards:

the cassin route.

In reply to M. Edwards:
Along with Doorpost, Little Brown Jug is still up there for me as one of the alltime great VS's

In reply to M. Edwards:
The El fissura del desparatione - Crack of Desperation at Orco, Italy, South of the Grand Paradiso Massive - only three main pitches but a stunning line - huge offwidth zig zag splitter crack Yosemite style, requiring a rack of maybe three of the biggest cams you can get.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Oh, and the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru??

In reply to M. Edwards:

Jeez, some really good choices so far. I really want to do the Cassin Route and Lotus', been on my tick list for years!

keep them comin'!

In reply to M. Edwards: Vestpillaren, Lofoten - attainable for most mortals and simply outstanding.

Grand Wall, Squamish. If you're there, you just have to do it.

In reply to geomac:

Isn't that just a big pile on the glacier now? I think some Russians climbed the line after the huge rockfall but I understand that it's deadly.

I did a route on Middle Cathedral in Yosemite which was one of the best granite routes I've ever done.

Al

In reply to Southern Man:

Hey, this is a wish list too, so feel free to dream...

In reply to M. Edwards:
The crux of the Lotus is A - getting in there - B - praying for it to stop raining, snowing, storming.... After that - def should be on the ist!

In reply to tradlad: Oh yeh. I forgot about that. It was very different in 82! Middle Cathedral? Probably the East Buttress?? Excellent one day route. recommended. The DNB should also be in there.

In reply to seaofdreams:

I hear that thr cordier pillar is better than the Cassin on the piz Badile. I have never done it, but the cordier and the west face of the petis Jourasses are both incredible rock and entirely solid.

In reply to M. Edwards:

The Scott Route on Mt Asgard
Minor Dihedral in the Wind River Range
Becky Chouinard route on the Howser Towers

In reply to M. Edwards:

Virago - Craig Buddon

In reply to M. Edwards:
Self Control, Val di Mello

In reply to Franco C:

Ill tell you in September when I get back

In reply to geomac:

have you done it? A Canadian friend and I are looking at it for two years from now.

In reply to geomac:

I suffer with the midges and I have been told they are bad too Blew up like a balloon when I was in Glen Nevis.

In reply to Franco C:
I just knew about the Cassin from an early age...and it has this mystic aura to it for me.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Same here. It's a bit upsetting really. I had these ambitions to do the geverassutti pillar, the casin and the freney and a lot of my mates have done these routes and reckon other stuff is far better. Do you follow your dreams or recommendations of good rock? Personally i'm going to try and do both.

In reply to geomac: I think the route was called Stoners Highway but we did do East Buttress as well. sentinel Crack was also good but looking a bit worse for wear even back in 2000.

Al

In reply to M. Edwards:

Best ones I have done of the top of my head

In the UK:
Climber's Club Direct, Dewerstone
Deja Vu, Bosigran
Homesick Angel, Jersey
Pinch Direct, Etive

and further afield:
Motorhead Eldorado
Mot Sola Nisserdal
West Pillar, Lofoten
The Good Book, Yosemite
Lucky Streaks, Tuolomne


Chris

In reply to M. Edwards:

Lets keep the Grit folks happy...any one pitch routes on your lists too?

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Great spread of locations there Chris. I can even say I have done most of them!

In reply to M. Edwards:

Separate Reality (Yosemite) Classic roof I have done four times now.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Forgot Aviation - Lowman

In reply to M. Edwards:

Yes, great spots. Should include something from La Pedriza, City of Rock and Squamish (Grand Wall?) really!

Chris

PS Sad to say I never did West Face Route - major omission there.

In reply to seaofdreams: No but it is very definitely on my tick list. I started thinking about it a few years ago when I was mountaineering in the Yukon. I did a lot of research for it a couple of years ago - logistics of getting in and out etc, etc. I also spoke to a couple of people who had been in and that was the general consensus. Weather can be very problematic. There is a company in Whitehorse who will fly you in and out and provide accomodation while they do so too. I talked to them. They don't charge extra if you have to wait for weather while getting in. Basically you can fly in by float plane and fight your way into the towers - arduos and horrible - or go in by chopper. I've still got details of the company somewhere if you're interested. - Oh, and let me know if you seriously want to go in there! I'm in!

In reply to M. Edwards:
Awesome granite routes I've done:
Snake Dyke, Half Dome
South Ridge Direct, Arran
Dent du Geant, normal route
Climbers' Club Direct, Dewerstone
Devil's Slide, Lundy
South Face Direct, Chair Ladder

The wishlist:
Lots of routes at Creag an Dubh Loch
The Pause, Etive
South Ridge of Salbitschijen (the East ridge was pretty cool)
Luna Nascente, Val di Mello
East Buttress of Mt Whitney, Sierra Nevada (bailed off it in a blizzard September 2008)
Vestpillaren, Lofoten
NE Face of Pingora, Wind River Mountains, Wyoming (this summer hopefully!)

Granite is just brilliant!

In reply to M. Edwards:
Casual Route, the Diamond
Cassin Ridge Piz Badile
Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque of the Unclimbables

In reply to M. Edwards: Dirl Chimney Clifton Crag and Dream route Lotus Flower Tower

In reply to M. Edwards:

Midnight Lightning
Mandala

In reply to M. Edwards:
The Madier on the Dibona
Eternal Flame on Trango.
I might manage the Madier sometime!.
sjm

In reply to M. Edwards: ardverikie wall

In reply to M. Edwards:
Ah, great thread! Just done my first proper granite routes with a day at Hare Crag and then a couple of routes in Glen Etive and *loved* its frictiony, balancy loveliness. Thanks for the inspiration people - keep them coming!
Isi

In reply to M. Edwards:

Climbed a route called "blank" this week (plus blankest and angels pavement) which i would recommend for the leader with the strong head. not world class but well worth the time.

on the south aspect of goatfell.

In reply to TobyA:
haha.. I was just about to post about baugen!

In reply to TobyA:
Yeh that was one of my favourite days climbing ever. My mates were doing the South Pillar on Stetind (which I'd already done a week or so previously) so I went off and soloed Klubbruta. I remember turning up at the bottom of it on my own while two guys were racking up. They must have thought I was going to ask to tag along with them! Their faces when I set off was priceless...

That looks outstanding!! Is it better than Presten? Every time you post a link to stuff in Norway it makes me want to go back sooo badly! Another year or so for the memory of the rain to fade a bit more and I should be mentally prepared for another summer there! Can't wait...

In reply to ali k: Glad to hear someone else has done Klubbruta. Did you walk on along the ridge to the summit? It's an amazing peak eh?

Baugen: It's not as high as Presten but it's steeper and the rock is even better. At the grades you're climbing some of the main routes should be your targets. Just get your arse in gear and do: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=97679
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wiklund/3768948340/
http://picasaweb.google.com/Marten.Blixt/KvalYaSlideshow#505411136715478741...
http://picasaweb.google.com/Marten.Blixt/KvalYaSlideshow#505379951816935929...

It has to be one of the world's best routes.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Couple from J Tree would be in there.
Maybe Figures on a Landscape and Illusion Dweller

In reply to TobyA:
Yeh I did walk along to the summit. It's a great peak. I remember the descent being a bit frustrating though with a few easy-to-miss turns down some zig-zag ledges.
And I went off-route at the top of the climb. When the ridge turned slightly broken I tried to stay on the steeper rock to the left to continue climbing to the top rather than scrambling and ended up on some HVS terrain. Great rock though.

As for Thanatos...f**k me! It certainly looks like one of the best routes in the world. I guess 7+ translates to what, E4/5? I'll certainly put that on the list for next time I go! Aaargh I'm getting excited already. This summer I'm doing Alps and dolomites so maybe next summer...

In reply to ali k:

Well above my grade I'm afraid. Some one on UKC has done some of the harder routes though and gave them UK grades. I think "Daatoon" or a name like that. You'll find him in the log book entries to the routes anyway.

We thought the Kvaloya grades were hard compared to Lofoten. I'm pretty certain that the 5+ we did would have got 6 on Lofoten.

In reply to M. Edwards:
Just had a big thunderstorm, so lost contact for a few hours. Good to catch up and read all your post above. You people are super inspired climbers. Norway sounds very good, and some notes are being made. I love the variety we are getting here too...Midnight Lightning (great problem) to...well it seems endless!

In reply to M. Edwards:
Surprised there hasn't been a mention of Dos d'Elefant at Bavella. I think I read somewhere that Catherine Destivelle rated it the best granite route in Europe.

In reply to Tom Valentine:
Hi Tom,
I have never been to Corsica, a 280m F6c+ Alpine route sounds fantastic. Have you done it?

In reply to M. Edwards: Jeef on the Punta Di U Corbu, Corsica and its neigbour Dos de l'Elephant.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Only in my dreams, alas.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Interrogation Hay Tor

In reply to Bulls Crack:
Good route and nice crag, especially on a sunny summers evening.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Eternal Flame on Nameless
Azeem ridge on Trango

In reply to M. Edwards:

South ridge of the Cengalo
Visite Obligatoire Aiguille Dibona

In reply to M. Edwards: I would like to do A Widespread Ocean of Fear again, and perhaps on its 30th Birthday next year. It's the finest route I have ever done perhaps as much for the memories as the climbing. It also brings back memories of how it got it's name, conjuring up the image of my finals anatomy exam in a school classroom at Uni. I used to use the time dreaming up route names rather than working.

And I want to do the Nose on El Capitan, if I can get someone foolish enough to do it with me.

In reply to M. Edwards: has noone been to squamish?
Freeway was brilliant and university wall looks amazing

In reply to Gary Gibson:
Hi Gary,
Can't say I have done your route A Widespread Ocean of Fear, but I do remember having a look at the wall before you climbed all your magnificent routes on it. I should go back and tick a few. Great names too...keep on dreaming! Hey, I have not done The Nose either!

In reply to Chris Craggs


I would choose Hagar over Mot Sola. Both excellent routes. Both visible from far away and following fantastic lines, but I thought Hagar had more continuos difficulties and I really didn't like the easy traverse pitch of Mot Sola which is always wet and doesn't have gear.

I'd also agree on Vestpillaren (I assume this is the same as West Pillar).

Whilst we're on Norwegian granite, I'd like to add Einfach Schön in Setesdal. Or would it be greedy to have three routes in Norway.

Tony

In reply to TonyB:

On second thoughts, Via Lara has to be the Nissendal route. Nowhere else have I seen anything so sustained at such an easy grade. The best HS on the planet?

In reply to TonyB:

Not done Via Lara (or Hagar) maybe sometime this month though.


Chris

In reply to M. Edwards:

Anger and Lust at the Pass of Ballater.

In reply to M. Edwards: Fantan B

In reply to David Jones:

Just search this route, and it says...180m HVS with only one star! Surely more stars? I have not done it, so maybe others have a more qualified opinion.

In reply to M. Edwards:
Never Up Never In in Hoggar
The normal route up Spitzkoppe in Namibia
A chap has to dream that when the kids have moved on he may have a few coppers left to enjoy himself.
sjm

In reply to sjminfife:
Hey! Maybe your kids will turn out be climbers and take dad up those dream routes.

In reply to M. Edwards: That would be great.I had a great day on Agags Groove when the party behind was a son(probably 35ish) leading his mum (about 55 ish).Every pitch consisted of her swearing and every stance was a sucession of roll ups.If my daughter comes on this could well be me!
sjm

In reply to M. Edwards:

Excellent thread

Exasperator in Squamish. Beautiful route, my style, a bit too hard for me - definitely a wishlist one!

In reply to amy: It rocks! And if I can get up it any one can, so maybe it won't have to sit on your wishlist for long...?

In reply to M. Edwards:

Has anyone mentioned stuff like Motorhead, Septumania and Fairhandsline in the Grimsel area in Switz? Granite slab heaven.

In reply to JonC:

Motorhead (Eldorado) has been mentioned, so your three on the Grimsel are on the list. Great looking slab, and I vaguely remember an article in black and white in a distant Crags magazine (?)

In reply to sjminfife: Hey! I've done the Spitzkoppe. A very fun day out. Early start, interesting route finding and great views from the top! Go for it!

In reply to amy:

Squarmish granite has to be on the list, great crack climbing! On my wish list too.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Memorable ones I've done:

West Flank Route, Arran (strange slab/V-chimney combination)
Stone Boom, Pordenack Point, Cornwall (two contrasting pitches)
Normal Route, Spitzkoppe, Namibia (fantastic adventure)
Great Dyke Service (if that's the name we settled on), Mutorashanga, Zimbabwe (spectacular finger jamming up a huge boiler plate koppie)
Motorhead (several mentions already)

Still on the list: Another vote for the Cassin Route on the Badile; the Needle, Shelterstone and/or something on Etive Slabs (does it ever stop raining?); Dream/ Liberator; something classic on Lofoten.

In reply to M. Edwards:
My favourite big granite routes are probably Cougar on Creag an Dubh Loch and Pinch Direct in Glen Etive. Both routes are fairly sustained with great character.

Squamish had some fantastic looking Granite multi-pitch. Northern Lights, University Wall and Freeway all looked amazing!

Trist

In reply to Dave Garnett:
Nice spread of routes there. Hey! I have done two of them on your list. Take a guess on which two?

In reply to M. Edwards:

If you're the M Edwards I think you are, you might even have been there the day we did Stone Boom. Your dad was! Of course, Telegraph Road is the real line but looked hard for E3. Is it?

I'd be pretty surprised if you had done Great Dike Service. It's a sad story. Most of the people we climbed with from the MCSA Harare section have left the country I think, and I dread to think what happened to the (white-owned) tobacco farm where we camped. I don't suppose the routes we did round Mutorashanga get much traffic these days. The route was named after the Great Dike Service Station near the crag and involves a lot of tight finger jamming...

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Hi Dave,
Yeah, Telegraph Road is a lot harder start, and a very "Cornish" E3 too. It has stopped a few people I know. The gear is good, but powerful to place.

Your right I have not done Great Dike Service. Have you any photos to share with us. Granite cracks always look great photographically IMO.

Mark

In reply to M. Edwards:

I might go and dig out my slides and upload something. It's a great route, one of many we climbed in a memorable week when the Cape Town crew headed up to Harare.