UKC

Ok i know i keep starting the odd thread requesting information on either of these venues, but we're having a bit of trouble deciding where to go. Basically me and a mate are flying into Milan on 02/07/10 at around 9am and flying out again on 11/07/10 at about 9:30pm. So we've got 9 days to go climbing in Northern Italy, we have a hire car so getting around is not a problem. We've narrowed it down to either Orco or Mello, but they both look amazing, there is always the option of 4 days at one and 4 at the other as i know that, also i kno theres all the lime sport stuff around lake lecco anyone know if the weather round lecco is more stable then mello?

In reply to Adam Moroz:

I've been to Mello and it's awesome. A mate has been to Orco and also thinks it's awesome. Don't think you can go wrong with either! In terms of weather... Lake Como & Lecco definitely has fairer weather. As with all mountain areas, the minute you move away from the high stuff, you're going to see changes in rainfall, etc. Given that Mello to Lecco is, what, an hour's drive or so, if you wake up and it's minging and you want to climb, just get in the car and go! I'm sure there's something similar near Orco too.

Personally, I wouldn't get too hung up about it. Pick either Mello or Orco and go there. I wouldn't bother splitting your time - by the time you've got in the swing of things, you'll just want to stay and climb where you are, and there's no point effectively wasting a day travelling, plus another day working out what's what in the new area, when you've only got just over a week. Plenty to go at in Mello, trust me, you won't be disappointed!

In reply to Adam Moroz:

I would suggest:

Val di Mello for sport climbing and Valle dell'Orco for trad climbing (if you love jamming, there are some amazing cracks there...have a look at Fessura della Disperazione...if you like off-width!).

In reply to Adam Moroz: I live 30 minutes from Val di Mello and let me tell you it's one of the most beautiful places I know and there's some awesome sports climbing as well as bouldering. If you're there midweek it's practically empty. Must say though I've never been to Orco, I'm sure it's lovely too. You can reach Val di Mello in 2 hours from Milan. 4 days in one and 4 in the other sounds like a plan.

As for the weather, July last year was incredibly hot, it was high twenties at night in Valtellina. Can't guarantee that but in 9 days you're bound to have some good stuff. Weather around Lecco similar to that in our valley as far as I know.

In reply to spragg:

What's the most up to date Guide for Mello with this Sport climbing in it?

Thanks Jonathan

In reply to Adam Moroz:
this for climbing, in Val di Mello and all over Valtellina/Bregaglia/Engadina. Only in German and Italian but the topos are clear enough.
http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=66

and this for bouldering (in English)
http://www.versantesud.it/INGLESE/dettaglio.asp?id=179

You'll be able to get them in the sports shop in San Martino, or in good book shops in the UK.

I've just returned from visiting both Orco and Mello.

Orco does have some magnificent crack and slab climbs which are all very accessible. The range of routes on the Caporal and Sargent could keep you going for your two weeks. However, we found it a fag trying to get the Rock Paradise guidebook, and its not the easiest guide to use once you're there.

Mello is on a larger scale with a much bigger selection of routes. We climbed there for 3 days but ticked some wonderful routes such as Luna Nascienta, around E2. This hasn't been bolted so makes for an awesome 9-10 pitches of crack/slab climbing (the peg belays seemed ok!. There were some really nice shorter, bolted routes as well. The bouldering at Mello is fantastic for the evenings or days off.

I personally preferred Mello based on the beauty of the valley and the range of routes, but I would go back to both valleys. It took us around 3.5-4 hours to get between the two venues.

In reply to All:

Cheers for the responses people, decision has been made and its Orco, we managed to borrow a Rock Paradise guide and we went over it last night in the pub it looks amazing! Unfortunately we can't take it with us but we're gonna photocopy and all the relevant bits, also we got hold of italian rock which is in English so will have photocopies of that too.

So should be alrate with Topos and English desriptions of approaches and descents. Mello does look mega but looking at The Caporal and The Sergent in the guide last night swung it for us, that Fissure del Desperation (or whatever its called) looks scary as hell, Italian Rock gives it E10 5b .

In reply to Adam Moroz:

Nice one. we bottled out of Fissure del Desperation, seemed a little bit too wide for my liking!

Hope the weather is good for you. There was still a bit of seepage when we were there. Nachez corner (think its called that) on the Caporal was still seeping quite a bit but might be dry now.

Extra marks for spotting the random sea cliff climbing photo in the middle of the guide!

Enjoy!

In reply to Alasdair:

Cheers mate, did u stay on a campsite and if ya did how much was it per night? We usually rough it and just pitch a tent up in a stashed away spot but apprently the police and wardens in orco dnt like this so can't be doing with big fines. Altho saying this are there plenty of places to stash ureselves away with a tent?

In reply to Adam Moroz:

The campsite wasn't open when we were there. We had two VW vans so just slept in the large layby area opposite the campsite and below the Sargent, there was a tap near Kosterlitz's crack for water. We weren't disturbed by the police or national park whilst we were there, and there were v.few people in the surrounding houses as well, may be different now its June.

In reply to Alasdair: Think we might risk it then, depends how busy it is when we're there at start of July, We've both got bivi bags so we can always just use them as there not as visible as a tent. I can't wait it looks mega!!!

In reply to Adam Moroz:
looks OK, but not a patch on Harper Hill.

In reply to krank:

Yes we might have to sack off the trip and just go on a tour of peak lime for the 9 days that wud be much more enjoyable. By the way we're going to stoney soon!

In reply to Adam Moroz:


Good choice

The campsite below the Sergent is "La Pescheria"

CAMPEGGIO LA PESCHIERA
San Meinerio - 10080 Ceresole Reale (TO)
Tel. +39 (0) 124 953222 - Fax +39 (0) 124/629259

but I believe is closed now. However, the "Piccolo Paradiso" capsite in Ceresole IS open

http://www.campingpiccoloparadiso.it/

If you want to wild camp, it's better to try on the L side of the valley (the one opposite Sergent and Caporal) as that's not part of the National Park.

Fessura della Disperazione - one of the FA team, Paolo Lenzi, is a a good mate of mine. His story goes that when he, Roby Bonelli and Danilo Galante decided to climb the Disperazione, they obviously had no way to protect it- so Paolo asked a carpenter in Bussoleno (his and Danilo's home village) to make big wooden wedges, that they would have used in pairs with some kind of home made clamp, so change their geometry and use them as running pro. It didn't work of course, and Danilo resorted to solo the whole first pitch.

There's a fantastic documentary over Orco climbing history, titled "Cannabis Rock" (it's available on DVD, I believe can be bought in Ceresole too). There's a scene with Bonelly repeating the Disperazione 30 years after the first ascent, and saying on camera "We were completely bonkers to climb this thing without protections. We could be kind to ourselves and say that we were brave, but reality is that were were a bunch of useless bonkers!!"

In reply to Luca Signorelli:

Thanks For the info we'll try the left side of the valley then, im sure we wont be the only people wild camping in the area anyway . Nice story about the Fessura della Disperazione, it looks like an amazing route. My biggest piece of gear tho is a Black Diamond size five Camalot so not really big enough although the sun might get to me and i might just jump on it, it's such a strong Natural Line it'd be rude not too. So many good looking routes on the Caporal and Sergeant the Nanchez Dihedrel and The Rattlesnake both look really good too.

In reply to Adam Moroz:
Hi there,
do you know if in val orco there are sports climbing as well and what is the range of the grades (if you can tell me in franch scale)...

thanks alot michal

In reply to michal hen-gal: I dont have a clue if there's any sport routes im afraid mate, i was under the impression there are sport areas and trad areas but i could be wrong. I think there is the odd bolt on the trad routes but only when needed.