UKC

With names such as Testarossa and Miura casting allusions towards Italian supercars, Kevin Avery was expecting big things of La Sportiva rock shoes.

"And I wasn't disappointed! Good looking, high performance and comfortable are some of the things that come to mind, and just like the Lamborghini its name points towards, the Muira VS is packed with technology and power..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2856

In reply to UKC Gear: We've got some more notes on fitting here: http://www.facewest.co.uk/Rock-Shoe-Survey-Results.html#miuraVS

In reply to UKC Gear:

Minor detail, but the rubber is in fact Vibram XS Edge, not XS Grip. And maybe you should update the conclusion to include the gripe about the velcro failing.

It may be that I just need to break mine in properly, but I've been surprised to see so many people calling these sensitive. To me they feel stiff to the point of it being impossible to feel what I'm standing on. This is great for edging, as I can stand on the tiniest edges with little effort, but on slabby terrain or just sloping footholds I find them absolutely useless.

My main basis for comparison are my old Scarpa Stix, which I find almost as good at edging, and far superior at everything else (except for comfort - the Miuras really are exceptionally comfortable). Unfortunately these are no longer made (anyone have a pair of 43's in decent shape they want to part with?)

In reply to supos:


Contact this guys http://www.auvieuxcampeur.fr/nos-produits/chaussons-d/ballerines-d/styx.htm... plenty in stock and they post to the UK.

In reply to supos: Hi, thanks - the rubber is XS Grip...

See here: http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=10&cod3=555&La...

Also just confirmed this with Lyon, the UK distributor.

Cheers though, Sarah

In reply to Sarah Stirling-Assistant Editor: That page says both XS grip and XS Edge...

In reply to Lemony: The main text is right but yes the XS Edge box is confusing, that's why I rang Lyon Equipment! I did tell them. Cheers,

Sarah

In reply to UKC Gear:

I've got mine on the table beside me, and they have a big fat "Vibram XS Edge" logo on the bottom of the soles. Also see this: http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/555 and the catalogue: http://www.sportiva.com/ecat/pdfs/2010Catalog_web.pdf

XS grip is an old compound by Vibram and no longer made (I believe). Now it is either XS Edge or XS Grip2.

I'm pretty sure The Miura Lace-ups used to use XS Grip (which is probably the main cause of all the confusion). Now they uses XS Edge for the men's and XS Grip2 for the women's version of the Miura lace-up and XS edge for the velcros.

Not that it really matters in my eyes. All modern rubbers are good enough that the compound used only make a tiny difference to the quality of the shoe.

In reply to Mr Lopez:


You just made my day!

In reply to supos:

They must have changed it then. Mine are somewhere between 1 and 2 years old and are marked up as XS Grip.

Brilliant shoe - pity about the eyewatering price.

In reply to supos: I would agree with you, I own both the lace up's and the velcro Muira's and without doubt the velcro is a stiffer and less sensitive shoe then the lace up. I believe the Muira lace up used to be a bit stiffer and it was always well known for being an awesome edging shoe, however for standing on small footholds the Muira VS definitely has the egde. (see what I did there..) As a footnote I love both styles, the lace up being one of the best boots ever made.
With regard to price be warned all, rock boot prices are going to rise significantly it's only that La Sportiva made the first move with this, so paying over £100 for a top end shoe will be common place. Bugger, although bear in mind you're buying a hand made, in Italy (for example), high end performance footwear.

In reply to chummer: Do you mean mis-spelling edge?

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: bugger.....must have got over excited

In reply to UKC Gear:


Good review Kev. Spot on about the velcro....its the only floor. Most comfortably shoe I've had .......... I'm depressed at the thought of all the painful 5.10 years! Its what fits tho. Eager to try the lace ups. Do folk with both think lace ups are better for sport?

In reply to UKC Gear: Good review but bloody hell £115 for a pair of shoe's

In reply to UKC Gear:

another downside to be added, again about the velcro...
the third one is strategically placed to make toe hooks and heel-toe jams more difficult and more painful than with most other rock shoes. Plus, when attempting the above, it wears out really fast.
Definitely not a good 1st shoe for a boulderer...

imho, too bad they needed to make it velcro in order to keep selling the old miura... The vs has a different last than the old lace up, and with laces it would have been almost perfect...