UKC

I currently climb f6b indoors and out. What do you think would be a realisic target to be able to climb outdoors in the spring next year, having trained over the winter (maybe April or May)?

Potentially I could aim to do 2 bouldering sessions in the week plus one climb on most weekends. I've also got a pull-up bar and moon fingerboard.

In reply to rossowen: Been stuck at f6b for probably three years or so climbing once a week, but haven't ever done any 'training' as such

In reply to rossowen: 6b

In reply to rossowen:

You'll do 2 training sessions in the week? And one boulder problem at weekends?

I think you need to do more on rock. Fingerboards can be helpful, but at Font 6b I suggest more volume on rock will be the best training.

I'd try to do at least 6 problems at a weekend.

In reply to bentley's biceps:

I climb just once a week at the moment on weekends, but I'm looking to start doing some kind of structured training over the winter. I could commit to 2x training boulder sessions per week plus my usual climbing on the weekends.

Wondered what kind of improvement I might expect with a few months of proper training, rather than just going once a week and climbing 6b's all day!

In reply to rossowen:

are you consistent across all types of climb at that grade ?

In reply to lost1977: In the main yes. There aren't any 6b's at my local wall that I can't do, and I can get up most 6b+'s. I'd say overhanging routes are harder for me than vertical routes of the same grade.

In reply to rossowen:

and what about outdoors ?

In reply to rossowen:


7a

In reply to lost1977: I don't tend to push myself outdoors and haven't done much overhanging stuff but similar story - 6b/6b+ no chance on a 6c.

In reply to Cragrat Rich: cheers. Hope so.

In reply to rossowen:

Hoping so won't do it mate! You have to take action

In reply to rossowen: Into the 7's easily if you do 2 bouldering and one routes session a week (plus fingerboarding)
But remember don't over do it. If your elbows or fingers say no just take the day off, injury sets you back far further than not training that week would.

Good advice thanks

In reply to rossowen:

I'm in fairly similar position, do you guys recommend any particular routine training or is more always better?

In reply to Kemics:

Any training routine needs to be tailored to your individual strengths and weaknesses so unless you are asking for very specific advice, it's not very effective to just copy someone else's.

I'd suggest buying one of the many books on training - Hague & Hunter - Self Coached Climber - is excellent and a good place to start. The stuff in the back should help you to put together something tailored to you. If that doesn't appeal to you, you could hire a coach.

In reply to rossowen:

Assuming it's mostly your physical condition holding you back and if you really put your back into a sensible training regime then a whole number grade isn't unrealistic so somewhere low-mid 7s once you've got your eye back in outdoors (mid-season, not straight out of the wall). You'll also want to be working on your redpoint skills over the winter, it'll put you in the right frame of mind and there's no point wasting the first month back on rock figuring out an efficient method.

Don't go mad on the bouldering, a good base of endurance training will allow you to use the strength/technique you already have (which is probably adequate). Do look after injuries, 3 months off with a ruined shoulder/finger/wrist is much more detrimental to your year's climbing than 3 weeks of active rest if that's what's needed.

jk

In reply to rossowen: I went from 6b at the end of last year and ticked my first 7b last week - all down to training over last winter. As others have said, think about where you are failing or you feel your weakest points are and work on them with a view to raising the whole of your climbing game - good luck.

In reply to rossowen: Having 2 training sessions and 1 climbing session per week, and moving from 6b/6b+, you should definitely aim for 7a at least. Focus on your weaknesses, train hard. You'll make it.

In reply to rossowen:

Specificity is key.

I set myself a sport grade target of F7a by this month (I started lead climbing at F5/6a at the beginning of the year) at the start of the year and although I've reached my target, I wouldn't say that I could consistently climb F7a.

The reason is (in my opinion) because my training has mostly involved bouldering in the week with route climbing on the weekends. I can boulder out a Font 6c/c+ crux, but get pumped in no time on a route.

So basically, by mainly bouldering I've made really good progress at bouldering, but my route climbing endurance has suffered. To improve at sport climbing, you should sport climb more (once a week is not enough to improve, as you've found out..).

In reply to rossowen:

If you consistently onsight at F6b you should already be able to redpoint F6c+ or F7a if you get it right. I wrote something about the outlandish claims of 'coaching holidays' a while back on this - http://bit.ly/bHLi4o

Phase your training - spend the next two to four months building power by steep bouldering, then move on to maximising power endurance on a steep circuit board doing laps of 20-35 moves.

Mix in sessions bouldering at (or beyond) your technical level, to improve your technical skills.

Hit the crags in March and crush. Bouldering is the key. Read Dave Mac's book '9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes'.

In reply to rossowen:

7a is realistic imo. I Went from f5/6a to consistant 6b/6b+, worked 6c and 7a is now within reach. That is from March/April until now. Hoping for my first clean 7a this weekend! Then im off to Kalymnos for 2 weeks so i'll obviously be climbing 8c+ by the time im back....