UKC

As the title suggests, im off to Swanage this weekend for some sea cliff adventures and was hoping to get some tips on which are the pick of the crop at the VS level.

Have climbed sea cliffs before and am capable of ascending a rope if needs be.

Look forward to your suggestions.

Cheers

G

In reply to gcandlin:

Tensor II (careful of the belay)
Freda
Finale Groove (soft HVS)

In reply to gcandlin:

My favourite is probably Mistaken Identity at Guillemot. I also enjoy Zo Zo in the same area, tensor II (also in the same area) is also good but a bit tougher.

Might see you down there.

In reply to gcandlin:

Mellow Yellow is pretty cool too, just don't ab' into the E4.

In reply to gcandlin:

Isis at Cattle Troughs

In reply to gcandlin:

Try Bottomless Buttress and Silhouete Arete at Boulder Ruckle - I thought they were both brilliant - both accessible from the same (solid) ab. Take care with the top outs. Competent second required as both have exciting traverses.

In reply to gcandlin:

Guillemot/Cormorant Ledges a good venue.

Tensor II (hardish VS) and Quality St (gift at HVS) the pick but also Batt Crack, Ledgend Direct to look at

Freda a mini classic and Isis too, but Isis no pushover, many have a mare.

In reply to Southern Man:

Who'd be stupid enough to do that?

In reply to gcandlin: In addition to routes already mentioned The Heidelberg Creature and Old Faithful are both great lines. Not done it but believe Silhouette Arete is another good climb in the Ruckle.
Finale Groove (HVS) is a mega classic with no stopper moves and good gear all the way, it is pretty sustained though. If you find Isis at Cattle Troughs fairly comfortable then Finale Groove is kind of similar, longer but if anything the moves are easier, I felt pretty pumped out by both these routes!

In reply to gcandlin:

For the proper Swanage experience you should go to Boulder Ruckle. Check the tides and sea-state, the left (west) end is generally more sheltered than the right.

I can't believe no-one has mentioned Tatra! Admittedly some northern softies seem to find it a bit hard for VS but it has three fine contrasting pitches. Heidelberg Creature, Silhouette Arête, Bottomless Buttress (HS), and Old Faithful are all excellent. Slightly harder, Lightening Wall has a short, well-protected 5a section, amongst otherwise VS climbing. Aventura and Finale Groove are both excellent: steep and look unlikely at the grade are but in balance most of the way and not much harder than the VSs above.

Take plenty of medium and big gear and slings; leave your RPs behind.

In reply to duncan: Agree Aventure is a cracking route but I think it's given HVS in the Rockfax guide (only the second pitch, mind).

In reply to clipskipper:

Aventura is a lot more VS than Tatra !