UKC

I am 50-50 what to get I have read the review on UKC but what do you guys think.

In reply to StevenRogers: Torque nuts, purely for the extendable sling.

In reply to StevenRogers:

I've used both and they're both good & pretty similar frankly. I'm 51:49 in favour of rockcentrics myself as I think their slightly less extreme profile sits better in cracks.

I do like the extendable loop on the torque nuts though.

claims that you need less torque nuts because of a wider range don't seem to fly by the way - the dimensions of comparable sizes are pretty close. There is a wider range of sizes of Rockcentrics too which may be an advantage to if you're into seagull-slaying.

In reply to StevenRogers:

My thoughts (just from playing around in the shop) were that the extendable sling on the torque nuts would be very fiddly to use, especially if it was frozen or the climber was out-of-balance.

Having said that the sling looks a bit more durable than the dyneema on rockcentrics; I've been more than a little concerned at the degradation on these and have re-slung them with cord.

As far as shape/profile is concerned there really doesnt seem to be much difference.

Personally I'm planning on getting some hexes on wire; more durable and less of that annoying clanking.

In reply to StevenRogers: both would be good, there both a bit different

In reply to StevenRogers: The Dmm toorque nuts are great may be too good, i find them hard to remove if they are weighted, dont know if i am right but the metal seems a bit softer than the Rockcentrics, both a brilliant hex's though. i will let you use both types next time we are out.

That is what I was thinking I like the extendible DMM sling it was tested and the hex was braking before the sling but there is a better range in the WC ones.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: dont get hexes on wire i got them for the same reasons and theres a good reason why dyneema has been used all this time they just dont sit right as the wire doesnt bend defiantly a thumbs down from me

In reply to minus273degrees:


Even if you put a decent length extender on them?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: it may work i just find them too rigid for the type of placements

In reply to StevenRogers: Placing wired hexes is much easier one handed! you can place them deep in placement where your hand wont fit, and similarly the stiffness makes retrieving them easier. Having used both, I much prefer the wired hexes. Each to their own i suppose, but i use wired nuts, and wired hexes are no more likely to lift out than they are. They also tangle less on the harness. Its quite a contentious one in my experience though, each has its pros and cons. Wires are often better for threaded placements too. Strong opinion from me here : )

In reply to jacobjlloyd:

I'm guessing there's a maximum size for wired hexes to be effective; otherwise they presumably just flop over when you're trying to place them?

Just been looking at the BD wired hexes; they do seem to be just a wee bit heavier and I'm also not sure if the reverse taper is as good as WCs.

Unsure; maybe I should just embrace the cam and banish that horrible cowbell noise forever.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

You can put tape around the wires on bigger hexes/other large nuts, which makes them less prone to flopping over.

In reply to Timmd:

Kinda like Viagra for your rack.

I have and use the dmm tourque nuts ,i think they are good, and the built in extenable sling is a nice touch

would be nice to have both i guess..

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: I second avoidance of wired hexes. Bought some, placed them about three times and sold them on again. Just can't get on with them.

Have used both torque nuts and rockcentrics quite a bit. Torque nuts less curved profile make them slighty harder to place IMO, and they do have a tendency to get proper stuck when weighted. They do cam better than the rockcentrics though. Extendible slings in the older ones were rubbish as the holes were too small meaning you had to pull like a demon to extend the sling. Apparently the new torque nuts have widened holes so this isn't a problem.
Rockcentrics are great, but lack extendible sling and the range of each individual unit is less.

In reply to StevenRogers: I feel old. What happened to hexes?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
'Having said that the sling looks a bit more durable than the dyneema on rockcentrics; I've been more than a little concerned at the degradation on these and have re-slung them with cord'

Having done extended amount of destructive testing with cord and dyneema slings, I can categorically say slings will be stronger and more resiliant.

In reply to StevenRogers: i've used the wired BD hex's a couple of times and they seem ok, but i'd never get any myself, prefer slings on my hexes.

i learnt to climb borrowing a friends WC rockcentrics and they were great and i currently own one small one (pink sling). i also own one DMM torque nut and think its great (the yellow one) it sits a bit better than the WC ones and cams a little better. the rest of my hexes are CAMP hexes on cord which are great, glad i managed to get some of them.

all the types have their pro's and cons and if i were to buy again now i'd probably get the DMM torque nuts and then fill in any missing areas with the WC rockcentrics. i wouldn't get a full set of rockcentrics though.

In reply to Shirebikes:


Even really furry ones with nicks in them?

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: The biggest two are a bit floppy, but still stiff enough to actively get them in and out of deeper placements. Cams are good, but a much heavier alternative. Most of us use both. That being said, you can usually tell from the ground if hexes are worth bringing, and often get away with giving them to your second to bring up. In this case, it doesn't matter how heavy they are!

In reply to jacobjlloyd:


Fnar Fnar