UKC

I'm off to the far north of scotland with the intention of climbing the classic sea stacks, starting next weekend. I've been looking into what "big" mountain routes there are that we should make sure we do while we're up there (not likely to make it back up there any time soon...). The two options that are jumping out at me at the moment are Fiddler Nose Direct and a linkup or two on Carnmore.

Does anyone have any comments on those - particularly whether they are likely to be dry and snow-free at the time of year? I see that Sgurr an Fhidhleir is north facing, so maybe that's not such a great choice, fantastic as it sounds? Have I overlooked any other particularly brilliant routes? I'm probably looking around VS/HVS - we've got a fair bit of E1 mileage together but will probably fancy a little in hand to enjoy ourselves.

I'd also love to get some summer stuff done on Ben Nevis, but I'm assuming that in spite of the warm month we've had that it's too much to hope for The Long Climb or even Minus One Direct to be in suitable summer condition. Obviously we'd be happy to tackle LC in damp conditions, but not if it's still in Orion Face mode!

In reply to jonny taylor: According to the UKC logbooks we were the last people to climb the Fiddler's Nose (May 09), so it probably hasn't got any cleaner! Happy to provide beta

In reply to jonny taylor:

Regarding the Fiddler and Carnmore - there will not be snow on either I reckon. As you say the Fiddler does face North and I would expect there to be the odd wet bit particularly low down but the higher quality top pitches I would imagine would be dry but this is largely speculation having only been up there in winter. Carnmore would be a better bet. More routes to choose from there too. In Coigach, Stac Pollaidh is a better bet - with Jack the Ripper being the obvious thing to throw yoursleves at. Not a particularly big route but up a mountain with a sunny aspect. I'm sure there's some easier things up there too.

Other otpions are Bonaidh Dhon for Vertigo and others. Beinn Eighe for a whole host of excellent climbs some of which will be dry as long as the weather continues fine.

On the Ben, I would have thought a better bet would be Centurion. Maybe Minus One Direct would be a goer but I would imagine that you'll have to cross steep snow to get on it. Again I haven't climbed up on the Orion Face in summer. But have rock climbed on Carn Dearg in early March with no wet rock encountered.

In reply to cat22: Mind not everyone logs routes on here. Still, it's probably a bit of the loose side after the winter.

In reply to gforce:
This

And you could add Foinaven if you fancy going really far north.

In reply to jonny taylor:

I reckon Carnmore's your best best for warm/dry mountain routes at this time of year. You might be a bit disappointed with Fiddler's Nose - lots of it is very overgrown, and would be horrible if it was wet (nice views though). Heading a little further south, the Triple Buttress on Ben Eighe looks great.

You'd have no trouble with Minus One Direct if it's dry, but as said the snow slope approach might be tricky. The big corner on Centurion is even slower to dry, but it's positive enough to do in the wet (feels more like E1).

If you're lucky with the weather then you'd have a lot of fun at the Dubh Loch. Cyclops has 300m of awesome HVS climbing, and King Rat, Mouse Trap and Goliath are all classics at the right grades.

Or how about Skye? Lots to play on in the Cuillin, like Vulcan Wall and Shangri La.

Thanks everyone, I'll have a read up about those suggestions!

In reply to jonny taylor:

If its dry then skye. Climb integrity, its only hs (supposedly) but is amazing, and loads of great multipicth options leading up to it.

With regards to conditions i was in the cairgorms yesterday (extrapolate that to the NW as you will). Some really nice dry rock on climbs with a sunny aspect, but still plenty of snow and damp on those frequently in the shade. Imagine similar is true elsewhere.

In reply to cat22:


It received a few ascents last winter (09/10) so I suspect it might well be a bit cleaner now!

Iain

In reply to jonny taylor:

I'd recommend buying this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=563

It's a brilliant guide for inspiration!

In reply to Craig Mc: Yes, I know But it's quite a good indication of the general level of traffic on a route.

In reply to jonny taylor:

Cool, will see what we feel like, and what the weather looks like, once we've enjoyed Hoy and Stoer, but those look like some very good suggestions. Neither of the guides I have are very browsable, so it was really handy to have some pointers! Ben Eighe and Stac Pollaidh look great. May give Skye a miss as that's somewhere we'll probably both find ourselves at some other time, but it's another option...

In reply to jonny taylor:

Foinaven, you won't beat it provided you can find the routes.

Adventure and solitude.

In reply to jonny taylor:
Obviously we'd be happy to tackle LC in damp conditions, but not if it's still in Orion Face mode!

I read the opening line in Classic Rock after a 9hr epic on Long Climb with some wet rock on a glorious sunny day & with no snow patches- "If the rock is damp to the touch and there is a sound of dripping, turn around and go and climb in the sun on Carn Dearg". Very sound advice indeed; doh.