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Well, I tried it and it got me hooked. I even have a bike (or will have: Trek 4900).
So, any tips for not breaking me or the bike while I'm out playing?
So, any tips for not breaking me or the bike while I'm out playing?
In reply to lynda:
Practice lots, and if you are really unsure about something then in general don't ride it (by really unsure - I mean I'm going to die if I don't make this).
Just relax and enjoy, and go riding with a bunch of entertaining people it all helps
Practice lots, and if you are really unsure about something then in general don't ride it (by really unsure - I mean I'm going to die if I don't make this).
Just relax and enjoy, and go riding with a bunch of entertaining people it all helps
In reply to lynda:
I've got that bike - love it!
Am too just starting out - been once on this bike (went a few times on my old bike) but just thought I should comment. Have just swapped the grips for green ones too!
I've got that bike - love it!
Am too just starting out - been once on this bike (went a few times on my old bike) but just thought I should comment. Have just swapped the grips for green ones too!
In reply to lynda: Best piece of advice ever offered to me was on such a thread as this many moons ago. If you want to avoid a rock (I would suggest you usually do), don't look at the rock, look at the route you want to take around it. Seriously. Makes a massive difference.
In reply to lynda: If you want to look at the view then stop.
In reply to lynda:
Drop the saddle on descents and get your ass as far back as it will go.
Practice going limp and loose on rough stuff.
On steep climbs shift your weight forwards and spin a low gear.
Get the feel of your brakes, don't grab loads especially the front one.
If you fall off get right back on and try it again.
Drop the saddle on descents and get your ass as far back as it will go.
Practice going limp and loose on rough stuff.
On steep climbs shift your weight forwards and spin a low gear.
Get the feel of your brakes, don't grab loads especially the front one.
If you fall off get right back on and try it again.
In reply to lynda:
Descending single track if you're not pedalling then keep your pedals parallel in case of snagging on rocks, roots etc. going round bends, not like on the road bike where you tend to have the lower foot on the outside of the bend.
Descending single track if you're not pedalling then keep your pedals parallel in case of snagging on rocks, roots etc. going round bends, not like on the road bike where you tend to have the lower foot on the outside of the bend.
In reply to lynda: Firstly only try one new thing at a time. If you go out & try to do 3, 4 or 5+ new things at the same time you'll have difficulty getting the hang of any of them and probably enjoy it less. So just work on one at a time till you get the hang of it then move onto the next one.
Don't look down look ahead. You shouldn't be looking at where your front wheel is you should be looking 3-6+ metres in front.
Drop your heels. When you have your heels dropped it tends to put your weight back which makes it easier to role over obstacles.
Speed is your friend. It's much easier to get through stuff when your going faster. The faster you go the more inertia your wheels will have. The faster they spin the more they'll want to stay upright & going forward through gyroscopic action. It's very hard to do & i suffer from it myself but it's often safer & better to roll through obstacles with speed rather then slowly.
stay loose/don't grip the handlebars too tightly You don't need to hold onto the handlebars very tightly when riding. If you do, you'll tend to find on longer descents & runs overall, your arms will get pumped. This means it's harder to manuevre the bike around to avoid obstacles. Gripping the bars less tightly will stop this happening or at a bare minimum slow down it's affects. Also staying loose means you will be better able to recover when you hit any unforseen obstacles.
don't be afraid to man/woman handle your bike. If you use your upper body & balance more it's much easier to avoid a lot of smaller obstacles than just trying to steer around them. A lot of the time it can be as little as leaning to the side to just deviate your line the smallest amount.
Should be enough for now but if i think of any more obvious ones i'll post again. In the meantime enjoy it, it's great fun.
Don't look down look ahead. You shouldn't be looking at where your front wheel is you should be looking 3-6+ metres in front.
Drop your heels. When you have your heels dropped it tends to put your weight back which makes it easier to role over obstacles.
Speed is your friend. It's much easier to get through stuff when your going faster. The faster you go the more inertia your wheels will have. The faster they spin the more they'll want to stay upright & going forward through gyroscopic action. It's very hard to do & i suffer from it myself but it's often safer & better to roll through obstacles with speed rather then slowly.
stay loose/don't grip the handlebars too tightly You don't need to hold onto the handlebars very tightly when riding. If you do, you'll tend to find on longer descents & runs overall, your arms will get pumped. This means it's harder to manuevre the bike around to avoid obstacles. Gripping the bars less tightly will stop this happening or at a bare minimum slow down it's affects. Also staying loose means you will be better able to recover when you hit any unforseen obstacles.
don't be afraid to man/woman handle your bike. If you use your upper body & balance more it's much easier to avoid a lot of smaller obstacles than just trying to steer around them. A lot of the time it can be as little as leaning to the side to just deviate your line the smallest amount.
Should be enough for now but if i think of any more obvious ones i'll post again. In the meantime enjoy it, it's great fun.
In reply to lynda: Padded pants and gel palmed gloves .
In reply to lynda:
Clip-in pedals. Better to start getting used to them earlier rather than later, for XC they're almost mandatory.
I've been using these for a while without any issue
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M770-Deore-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B00115PE7W
Clip-in pedals. Better to start getting used to them earlier rather than later, for XC they're almost mandatory.
I've been using these for a while without any issue
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M770-Deore-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B00115PE7W
In reply to lynda:
Stand up and let the bike move underneath you over rough stuff and down hill - your body position should remain relatively static. Keep pedals level and use bent knees and elbows as "suspension".
As previously stated, you need a bit of speed to help carry you through obstacles.
If my sister could be persuaded to do both the above, she'd be twice the rider she currently is!
Stand up and let the bike move underneath you over rough stuff and down hill - your body position should remain relatively static. Keep pedals level and use bent knees and elbows as "suspension".
As previously stated, you need a bit of speed to help carry you through obstacles.
If my sister could be persuaded to do both the above, she'd be twice the rider she currently is!
In reply to lynda:
And set the bike up for you!
Most will have the brakes levers set too high and too far towards the end of the bar. Don't be afraid to move them in a bit and angle them down (mine are about 45 degrees down) - with your fingers resting on the levers, they should be in a straight line with your forearms. Set gear shifters accordingly.
Learn to maintain your bike to at least a basic level, so you can fix it on the move and buy a quality multi-tool and pump, not a cheapie one.
And set the bike up for you!
Most will have the brakes levers set too high and too far towards the end of the bar. Don't be afraid to move them in a bit and angle them down (mine are about 45 degrees down) - with your fingers resting on the levers, they should be in a straight line with your forearms. Set gear shifters accordingly.
Learn to maintain your bike to at least a basic level, so you can fix it on the move and buy a quality multi-tool and pump, not a cheapie one.
Always look where you want to go, not where you don't want to go. Your front wheel is magnetically drawn to whatever you focus your attention on.
Find a section of trail that you find a bit challenging and then just do that section over and over so you can get used to riding smoothly rather than reacting to what's in front of you.
Get used to using your back brake as much as possible without locking up. On tricky terrain this will help control your speed without as much risk of the front wheel washing out. When braking for corners try to get all your braking done before you turn. If you have to brake on a turn then definitely only use the rear brake and really feather it.
Apart from that, spend a bit of time practicing bunnyhops, wheelies, and cutties (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDjem5RfuAI) and your bike handling skill will improve a great deal.
Find a section of trail that you find a bit challenging and then just do that section over and over so you can get used to riding smoothly rather than reacting to what's in front of you.
Get used to using your back brake as much as possible without locking up. On tricky terrain this will help control your speed without as much risk of the front wheel washing out. When braking for corners try to get all your braking done before you turn. If you have to brake on a turn then definitely only use the rear brake and really feather it.
Apart from that, spend a bit of time practicing bunnyhops, wheelies, and cutties (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDjem5RfuAI) and your bike handling skill will improve a great deal.
In reply to all: thanks everyone for your advice, some great stuff here; keep it coming
Can't wait until my bike arrives and I can start playing...
Can't wait until my bike arrives and I can start playing...
In reply to lynda: Get a good fitting helmet! sorry to state the obvious
In reply to DANNYdjb: I saw that. Hoping to avoid such things as well. Hence my post.
In reply to lynda:
I thinks its probably been said but imo its worth emphasising 2 technigues for riding rougher trails.
- the 'attack position', standing on the bike, pedals flat, arms and legs slightly bent and relaxed is the default position for riding anything downhill and rough.
- as the things get steeper move your weight back, aim is to have a vertical line between your body and the cranks so as the bikes angle goes downwards you need to move back to compensate.
To anyone who mtb's a lot these seem obvious and natural, but having taken my daughter and wife out as novices they do need to be learned to some extent and mastered you can ride a lot of stuff quite comfortably.
Decent info here:
http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/Fundamentals.html
I thinks its probably been said but imo its worth emphasising 2 technigues for riding rougher trails.
- the 'attack position', standing on the bike, pedals flat, arms and legs slightly bent and relaxed is the default position for riding anything downhill and rough.
- as the things get steeper move your weight back, aim is to have a vertical line between your body and the cranks so as the bikes angle goes downwards you need to move back to compensate.
To anyone who mtb's a lot these seem obvious and natural, but having taken my daughter and wife out as novices they do need to be learned to some extent and mastered you can ride a lot of stuff quite comfortably.
Decent info here:
http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/Fundamentals.html
In reply to lynda: Ride lots and then some more. Have fun with it. Don't be afraid of falling off - it all adds to the excitement! Buy a helmet if you haven't already got one.
When you get good, start doing some proper riding, DH and jumping drops
When you get good, start doing some proper riding, DH and jumping drops
In reply to lynda:
If you decide to go to some manmade trails then the colour coding is variable. Red/Black downhill courses are a lot tougher than Red/Black cross country courses! Also in my experience UK trails get harder the further North you go, so Welsh Red trails are easier than Scottish Reds etc. However Mainland European and Canadian/American trails are alledgedly a whole different kettle of fish.
Have fun
Mike (Broken ex-MTB rider)
If you decide to go to some manmade trails then the colour coding is variable. Red/Black downhill courses are a lot tougher than Red/Black cross country courses! Also in my experience UK trails get harder the further North you go, so Welsh Red trails are easier than Scottish Reds etc. However Mainland European and Canadian/American trails are alledgedly a whole different kettle of fish.
Have fun
Mike (Broken ex-MTB rider)
In reply to Reach>Talent:
After doing Drumlanrig and Kirrochtree over the weekend I've come to the conclusion that Scottish Red is a bit like Scottish VS.
Actually the black sections weren't that much harder, or at least avoidable.
To the OP - good piece of advice I've had recently is go easy on the front brake. Takes a bit of nerve, but you have to remember that when you hit the brake you immediately take half of the travel out of your front suspension
> (In reply to lynda)
> Also in my experience UK trails get harder the further North you go, so Welsh Red trails are easier than Scottish Reds etc.
> Also in my experience UK trails get harder the further North you go, so Welsh Red trails are easier than Scottish Reds etc.
After doing Drumlanrig and Kirrochtree over the weekend I've come to the conclusion that Scottish Red is a bit like Scottish VS.
Actually the black sections weren't that much harder, or at least avoidable.
To the OP - good piece of advice I've had recently is go easy on the front brake. Takes a bit of nerve, but you have to remember that when you hit the brake you immediately take half of the travel out of your front suspension
In reply to needvert: clip-in pedals? depends what you're doing really. clips for xc speed and flats for improving your technique, so you can bail if it all goes wrong. I ditched my clips in favour of decent flat pedals (dmr v8) which are a huge improvement over a standard flat pedal.
In reply to lynda:
Are you planning on cycling to work? I've got a couple of bits of woodland that I can divert through on my way in every morning, just ten minutes of playing around on tree routes and drop-offs seems to have built up my confidence on the techier stuff.
Are you planning on cycling to work? I've got a couple of bits of woodland that I can divert through on my way in every morning, just ten minutes of playing around on tree routes and drop-offs seems to have built up my confidence on the techier stuff.
In reply to Reach>Talent: Ah, I am nowhere near red standard yet. I have played about on the blues in Glentress and am relatively happy (need to play some more to get more experience), but I am aware that to really get anything done I will probably have to build up to red routes.
Cannae wait!
Cannae wait!
In reply to Toby S: I am hoping to cycle to work. No woodlands on the way in (does Glasgow green count?) though I will have to negotiate my way through the potholes that line the route through Easterhouse, Dennistoun and the centre of Glasgow
In reply to needvert: Don't think I like the idea of clip ins at the moment, I am happier knowing that I can just lift my feet off when I want to without thinking about twisting my feet out.
In reply to lynda:
I recommend a book called Mastering Mountain Bike Skills by Lee McCormack and Brian Lopes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mastering-Mountain-Skills-Brian-Lopes/dp/0736056246
It contains pretty much every technique you need with good explanations.
Personally, I find the simple tips are the best. Look as far ahead as you can, and look where you want to go. Stay relaxed without being floppy, and keep your weight in the middle of the bike. Try and minimise the braking you do; don't continually drag the brakes, hard but controlled braking then coasting is better. Bad places to brake are during a corner, over wet roots, through rough rock sections etc. Set your speed before you get to them then get off the brakes through them. If you have to brake in these situations, only use the rear.
Hope that helps a bit.
I recommend a book called Mastering Mountain Bike Skills by Lee McCormack and Brian Lopes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mastering-Mountain-Skills-Brian-Lopes/dp/0736056246
It contains pretty much every technique you need with good explanations.
Personally, I find the simple tips are the best. Look as far ahead as you can, and look where you want to go. Stay relaxed without being floppy, and keep your weight in the middle of the bike. Try and minimise the braking you do; don't continually drag the brakes, hard but controlled braking then coasting is better. Bad places to brake are during a corner, over wet roots, through rough rock sections etc. Set your speed before you get to them then get off the brakes through them. If you have to brake in these situations, only use the rear.
Hope that helps a bit.
In reply to lynda:
Can't remember if it's back in business or not but Barshaw Park in Paisley had a BMX/ dirt jump track there. If you're doing circuits at Glen Tress the likelihood is you'll get some air at some point- it's easier to learn to practice jumps on a BMX circuit than on a 10km loop where you only hit say 3 of them.
As regards SPD pedals-- lot of people use them. I have too in the past, but I don't bother anymore. I just use platform pedals. I used to BMX a lot in my teens and I just prefer to be able to have a quick dab with a foot. It's less efficient but I feel constricted being clamped in on techy stuff.
Ride your bike in the street. Get someone to teach you to bunny hop (without SPDs) and practice clearing a kerb height plank of wood. The ability to bunny hop is very useful and it'll make your jumps sicker ; ) when you get your confidence up.
Enjoy.
Can't remember if it's back in business or not but Barshaw Park in Paisley had a BMX/ dirt jump track there. If you're doing circuits at Glen Tress the likelihood is you'll get some air at some point- it's easier to learn to practice jumps on a BMX circuit than on a 10km loop where you only hit say 3 of them.
As regards SPD pedals-- lot of people use them. I have too in the past, but I don't bother anymore. I just use platform pedals. I used to BMX a lot in my teens and I just prefer to be able to have a quick dab with a foot. It's less efficient but I feel constricted being clamped in on techy stuff.
Ride your bike in the street. Get someone to teach you to bunny hop (without SPDs) and practice clearing a kerb height plank of wood. The ability to bunny hop is very useful and it'll make your jumps sicker ; ) when you get your confidence up.
Enjoy.
In reply to lynda:
I'd say the opposite to at least 2 bits of advice above: don't get RIGHT off the back, it's simply not needed for most 'normal' riding. You still need to keep some weight on the fork. And use the front brake, it's a powerful thing. You don't want to wash out, sure, but there's a reason most front disks are bigger than the back. Really working the front, weighting and braking, can transform your riding ...of course you have to find out most of this for yourself and where your limits are ...ignore most of what you read on the interweb, mine included
Have fun mostly.
I'd say the opposite to at least 2 bits of advice above: don't get RIGHT off the back, it's simply not needed for most 'normal' riding. You still need to keep some weight on the fork. And use the front brake, it's a powerful thing. You don't want to wash out, sure, but there's a reason most front disks are bigger than the back. Really working the front, weighting and braking, can transform your riding ...of course you have to find out most of this for yourself and where your limits are ...ignore most of what you read on the interweb, mine included
Have fun mostly.
Are you based in Glasgow? if so, can't recommend this club enough: http://www.gmbc.org.uk/gmbc-meetings.htm
Really friendly and accommodating. Loads of different rider levels. A great place to learn to ride.
Really friendly and accommodating. Loads of different rider levels. A great place to learn to ride.
In reply to lynda: Flats not SPDs - but maybe not too aggressive pins and get some sticky 5.10 shoes to go with them. Superstar Components do some of the best priced and nice flats out there.
Dont neccessarily stick with the tyres that come with your bike. I swapped my conti mountain kings for Maxxis High Rollers and the puncture resistance and confidence inspiring handling was absolutely stunning.
and lastly (just for Frank) ditch your bike and get an Orange P7
Dont neccessarily stick with the tyres that come with your bike. I swapped my conti mountain kings for Maxxis High Rollers and the puncture resistance and confidence inspiring handling was absolutely stunning.
and lastly (just for Frank) ditch your bike and get an Orange P7
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