UKC

On the overhanging wall, behind reception...how do you get over the last volume

I'm hanging upside down on my right hand, and I have to reach up with left hand, but there's no footholds so I'm just hanging and doing one arm pullups. There must be a better way than the brute force and ignorance I'm trying atm, it's only a 6c ffs.

In reply to Tiberius: its only plastic, dont get upset

In reply to Tiberius:
Not that I know the route, but if there are no previous holds how did you reach that point in the first place? maybe body tension or high feet will help?

In reply to Tiberius:
The staff behind the counter are usually pretty friendly and happy to chat beta (from my experience).

In reply to geddicakes:

Yeah, I know them quite well, although I always moan that Marie gives no.1 son beta and not me

Sadly she hasn't climbed this route yet, apparently it's one of Tom's. Still, it's my sorta route so I'll have it soon. No.1 son climbs a couple of grades harder than me, but this is a thugs route, he prefer's technical fingery routes.

In reply to Tiberius: If it's one of tom's then you can be sure it's no more than 5 grades out !

In reply to Chris the Tall:

The grade's prolly about right tbh, although like all it depends on what sorta route you like. 6c or 6c+ is my current limit, real redpoint limit. I work 7a's, but I've never managed one yet. It's not my son's kinda route, although he climbs most 6c's with ease he can't do this one.

It's long, steep and doesn't have many jugs, but you can get 4 fingers to the mid joint on most holds, so I guess 6c is about right.

I think I might have another go tonight, but I also wanna try the 7a on the central pillar.

In reply to Tiberius: There's a small hold on top of the big volume (you can't see it from the ground) you can use to get an excellent heel hook at the end. Use your left heel on it.

Alternatively you can also get some really good heel hooks elsewhere if you bend your hips in the right direction...

Good luck!

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: I spoke to a guy on reception and he said that hold on the volume wasn't allowed...defo for the left foot!

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:

I was failing the hold b4 then, worked it tonight with one rest. Tried to clean it after but fingers were gone. I'll get it next time. 4 attempts for a 6c will be pretty good for me. Found the small hold once I got there.


lol...I have a massive rope burn from doing that on the final attempt. Popped off with a heel hook on and wrapped the rope round my heel. Looks just like a jellyfish sting I got a few years ago. Was gonna try again but my fingers were shot. Maybe this weekend.

Doesn't look like I'm gonna achieve a 7a b4 I'm 50, so I guess a decent 6c will have to do.

In reply to rmoffat:

That doesn't make sense. The route is pink holds, on the top of the final volume (not visible from the ground) there's a pink hold. How can it not be allowed? tbh not sure it's possible to reach the clip off without it. I think we must be talking about a different hold, maybe a red somewhere?

In reply to Tiberius: Try one of the steep juggy lines on the articulated wall at 45 degrees. There's normally something on there about 7a which is always good if you like big pulls on big holds.

I reckon the receptionist might have been pulling someone's leg... . If it was Neil, then I never believe anything he says!!

I'll be putting up a new 7a on Friday on that steep wavy wall left of the articulated wall which might also be your style.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:

The closest I've come to leading a 7a was the one done for the BMC leading ladder comp last winter. That was on there.


Sounds promising, I'll try that this weekend.

I tried the 7a in the middle of the long wall behind reception, but got lost around half way up...but I was knackered by the time I got to it.

A high heel hook on the top volume helps as you can keep it there until you get to the belay

On another note myself and the hubby were there the other day and were very underwelmed. The route setting was pretty bad (lots of trick moves next to the belay) and grades were all over the place (6a's similar to 6c's). The Pink route you talk about was probably the best thing we did. When I climb indoors I'm there to train not to mess around with 4 holds next to a belay which only requires using one. Other routes were just unimaginative jug hauls.

The receptionist was nowhere to be seen when we arrived and so we waited 15 mins and then decided just to start climbing, 20 mins later she turned up......
The music was also terrible. I know this is often an issue at walls but playing the Heartbeat sound track and then a heavy metal durge for most of the time we were there followed by Nirvana's "Rape me" at full volume was just awful. No we didn't bother to say anything as we were busy climbing.

Oh and the vending machine was broken

In future we will make the effort to go to the Foundry instead

In reply to LuLuFletch:


Strange how we like different things I guess. I used to go to the foundry a lot, I have to drive past it to get the the edge, but I vastly prefer the edge. I find the edge has more imaginate overhangs and varied routes, from juggy pulls to technical fingery routes.

Also I can actually get on the routes, unlike the Foundry where I find the best routes being hogged by regulars all the time, especially on the main overhanging wall which they seem to think they own. Once there was a guy standing at the foot of the overhanging wall at the foundry, I asked if he minded if I went on on the route but he said no, he was about to climb it, but his belay partner was standing over the room chatting with someone. I've never known anyone hog a route in that way at the edge.

Actually the way I found the edge was when I couldn't get on a route at the Foundry, so I drove up to the edge to try it out.

As for grades, I generally find them harder at the edge, although someone tells me they have stiffened up a bit at the Foundry.

The receptionists at the edge do move about a bit true, but I've been left standing at the counter at the Foundry several times, so I guess that's not an issue peculiar to the edge. I'd just go and climb, or go find the receptionists...but then I know them so it's easier for me than if it's your first time there, I'm not really sure of an answer to that one tbh.

You're also not seeing the best of the building at the moment. The floor in the reception/cafe area has been ripped out in to be re-laid, but they have to dry it out first.

In reply to LuLuFletch:

Hi Lu,

Sounds like you didn't have the perfect experience at the Edge...

If you're willing to give us another go, please give me a ring at the wall and I'll arrange a free climbing session for you (and your husband) so we can get it a bit better next time. I'll show you round the range of routes (I promise they're not all tricks! ) and if you'd like different music, please do bring in a CD and I'll put it on for you for your session.

Apologies for the absent receptionist - it might be explained by the madness of having our whole next reception area re-fitted. But obviously, that's not helping you much. If you have an issues with the vending machine, we'll just get the keys and get whatever you want out.

Hope to see you soon

Tom

PS> Our number is 0114 2758899.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: Oh... forum doesn't like me posting a phone number. Guess google will be best option

In reply to LuLuFletch:
I agree the music is often terrible at the Edge its often some Bob Marley cilled out sort of stuff, and the volume often changes from barely audible to lound. I prefer some pumping beats when I'm training (for exmaple: i like the modern techno at the Works or dance at the Foundry, or my ipod when training at home!)

Perhaps the walls should ask their regulars what they would like to hear (customer survey) and then the walls should play the appropriate music for them? Its not just about the routes its about the right atomosphere, and the full indoor wall experience.

In reply to j_duds:

Whatever you play, someone's not gonna like it. Take your own in, they'll prolly play it, but if it's death metal don't be surprised if other people ask it to be turned off