UKC

Reslinging camelots.

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 snoop6060 26 Jun 2011
So after a rather enjoyable week in a heavily restricted (but thankfully dry) pembroke I have returned with a 0.75 camelot with some pretty bad damage to the sling.

Anyone have any experience of sending these back to BD for replacement? How long did it take? I've looked on their website, its $12 which is good value. Not sure about postage etc tho. Its only about 2 years old so they will happily do the work.

Any info would be great. Cheers.

Si

 L.A. 26 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060: Usually takes 3-4 weeks but this includes shipping both ways. Id suggest you just send it in along with your email address and theyll contact you for c/c payment Make sure they know youre UK based.
Good info on here..
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb-knowledge/knowledg...
 mlmatt 26 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060:

If you don't fancy sending your cam off for three weeks, then you can always resling it on some dyneema cord. It'll work just the same
 L.A. 26 Jun 2011
In reply to mlmatt: And yet the BD Quality Control man says....
And note:
• Dyneema/Spectra doesn’t hold a knot. Never use a knot with Dyneema/Spectra.

and DMM agree about the knotting
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1
 deepsoup 26 Jun 2011
In reply to L.A.:
You have the wrong end of the stick. He's talking about Dyneema cord, not a sling. Eg: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Cord-Tape/Cor...
 L.A. 26 Jun 2011
In reply to deepsoup: Apologies ! Im tired, hot, hungry and not thinking )
 CurlyStevo 26 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060: You could also consider standard tape with a tape knot or a sling with a bowline on the bight, the later you could stitch the sling to have a double thickness around the thumb loop just line the original which bd claim is essential. By the way the british distributor, first ascent will send them to the states for you for free and offer a discount on multiple cams. All this hassle is part of the reason I won't buy cams made outside the uk. in future.
 TobyA 27 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060:
> I've looked on their website, its $12 which is good value. Not sure about postage etc tho. Its only about 2 years old so they will happily do the work.

It should be free to you. I asked BD when reviewing the Camalots.

"BD do not currently have a facility in Europe for re-slinging Camalots but informed me that because they understand the hassle of this for UK customers, they will re-sling and return Camalots for UK customers for free (US climbers have to pay for each re-sling)

Us Brits will just have to cover cost of shipping our Camalots safely back to the US when we feel it is time to have them re-slung. BD's advice is that we should expect the sling to last 2-5 years for regular users and 5-8 years for less regular climbers, so with either model it is something most climbers won't be worrying about for some time."

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3213
OP snoop6060 27 Jun 2011
In reply to TobyA:

Cheers Toby, that's good to know.
 mlmatt 27 Jun 2011
In reply to L.A.:

Sadly it does hold a knot. It holds a triple fishermans knot you just need to tie it correctly and make sure there is enough tail at the end of the rope so that there will be no slippage. After you've weighted it and tightened the knot it will be fine.

I didn't actually ever mention anything about slings.

I'm sorry for trying to save you time and money. I've done this with my cams when they've worn out and I know plenty of other people in the UK have done the same. I've not heard an example of a dyneema cord (tied) failing and causing an accident before either.

Enjoy waiting for your cam when you send it off.
 CurlyStevo 27 Jun 2011
In reply to TobyA:
Toby I got some of mine reslung about 1.5 years ago and they charged me!
 jkarran 27 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060:

If you can't be bothered waiting you can just poke an 18 or 20cm sling through the hole, clip both ends, job done. If it's one of the old type with the small hole you need a very thin sling, Beal do a 6mm one that works.

jk

 Adrian Berry Global Crag Moderator 27 Jun 2011
In reply to mlmatt:

I've not double-checked this, but I recall the reason cams like Camalots don't simply have Dyneema threaded through the eye is that the Dyneema will cut through the cable at high loads. This is why DMM had to develop the double-eye termination, so that they could use an extendable sling without weakening the unit. I wouldn't resling it myself...
 TobyA 27 Jun 2011
In reply to Adrian Berry:
> but I recall the reason cams like Camalots don't simply have Dyneema threaded through the eye is that the Dyneema will cut through the cable at high loads.

I don't think it will cut it, but it can kink the cable that forms the thumb loop permanently. This is why Camalots have the slightly bulky double thickness of sling around the thumb loop.

I'm sure you could just buy some normal NYLON tape (15 mm is it?) and tie your own slings for Camalots but in a big fall people should know this can potentially kink the loop.
 TobyA 27 Jun 2011
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> Toby I got some of mine reslung about 1.5 years ago and they charged me!

I guess that was before my review was published, but I have an email from BD Europe saying this now that you can quote in future!

 CurlyStevo 27 Jun 2011
In reply to TobyA:
still the turn around time of 3-4 weeks is still enough for me to not want to bother
 CurlyStevo 27 Jun 2011
In reply to Adrian Berry:
well HB quadcams are a similar design and HB reslung mine with single thickness dyneema. I suspect the double thickness of dyneema slings the WC helliums use is to increase the overal strength of the cam but single thickness would still be acceptably strong (ie over 10 kn)
 deepsoup 27 Jun 2011
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> well HB quadcams are a similar design

They're double-stem devices aren't they? I think the difference between a closed loop on the end of a single stem and a "U" shaped loop between double stems may be quite important here. So you could be making a dodgy comparison.

Incidentally, when Camalots first came out they were double-stem too. They didn't have a sling on them at all, just a bare metal "U" shaped loop to clip with a quickdraw.
 CurlyStevo 27 Jun 2011
In reply to deepsoup: I guess, the heliums use Dyneema though (but doubled like the c4) the zeros use Dyneema in a single thickness and are a closed loop also. I still reckon the doubled sling just stops the sling being the weakest part rather than the difference between safe and unsafe but that is only a guess.

If you used a sling and a bowline on the bight you could still have double thickness sling around the loop if you stitched the slings together in this area ( only to keep them in line rather than anything structule)
 franksnb 27 Jun 2011
In reply to snoop6060:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/images/CAM_drop1...

narrow tape or cord will initially kink the thumb loop followed by twisting and then failure.

and again

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/images/CAM_thumb...
 CurlyStevo 27 Jun 2011
In reply to franksnb: Pretty much as I thought then still holds 10 kn although you risk tweaking your thumb loop. I reckon if you used a fairly wide closed loop sling attached with a bowline on the bight it would be functionally around as strong as a bd resling job but i guess there is the slight unknown factor. But whilst bd will do it for free you may as well send them off. Just another reason to get get dragons IMO which look like they can be reslung with spectra cord at home.

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