UKC

Having recently done a course in rope rescue, i've realised what a ball-ache it is to escape the system. However, I dont want to carry loads of cordelette.

I was thinking though, could you create a belay using the rope, which had a main anchor point.

I was thinking something like - double figure 8 on the bight "bunny ears style", clips two pieces, then an alpine butterfly clips then third. Overhand on the bight between the two, attach ATC.

It would be super easy to get it equalised as well, as the knots all adjust quickly/easily to make sure you're loading all the pieces.

Assuming you pull up an armful or two of slack, you could just stay tied in and clove-hitch to the anchor to secure yourself

Is this a good idea, i've thought of the pros but what cons am i missing?

I guess it could be slightly awkward if it's a hanging belay and the pieces are more than arms reach away.


p.s obviously each belay depends on the situation, but it would be good to have another option in the bag, should it be suited.

In reply to Kemics: sounds too complex. you can create a direct belay from nothing more than the anchors and a length of your climbing rope.

2 anchors: pull a length of rope up and place fig 8 on bight in this and put on the first anchor, pull a further length up, clove hitch on the second, equalise and tie overhand (or fig 8) job done.

In reply to Kemics:

Why not just use something slightly more simple like a 240cm sling, neatly clipped to the back of your harness. It literally take up so little space and the faff it would save over this "knotted rope system" would be immense.

Failing that why not just keep building yourself into belays seeing as you now have the knowledge to get yourself out of them?

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

yeah what he says, i'd prolly use clove hitches on all the gear, give myself a little slack
on the single line to me, then overhand to equalise the 2 bits of gear (using the 'dead' end
from the 2nd bit of gear in the knot as well). Clip into the double loop, add belay device to that (needs to be below you - so not much good for an upward pull !)

crude pic, here 2nd coming from bottom of pix

http://www.psych.york.ac.uk/~rob/pix/misc/simple-direct-belay.jpg