In reply to UKC Gear:
You can do the trick Yuji does with the Boreals to most new out the box shoes, done it in stores for years, just put the toes together push, and give a little twist, and they stick.
The important thing with sticky rubber, for those who notice the difference is that it holds shape too, i.e. doesnt roll off a hold or creep too much, i think its something to do with hysteresis.
sticky rubber wont make a difference if you dont keep it clean!