/ Climbing terminology...

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Paul Saunders on 03 Jun 2003 - m270-mp1.cvx2-a.man.dial.ntli.net
I'm sure this has been done before, but I can't find a thread on RT/BMC.

I was talking to a friend last week and since although we both climb, we don't tend to read that much of the climbing magazines we spoke at cross purposes for 1/2 an hour. To stop a repeat performance does anyone know a resource where the meaning of...

pinkpoint,
superflash,
redpoint,
headpoint,
and other similar terms are all defined.

We seem to have different opinions of where the differences between some of these lie.

Any info would be useful and stop me posting like a tw*t in future if I don't follow the majority definitions.


Steve Ward on 03 Jun 2003 - pc1-warw2-5-cust106.brhm.cable.ntl.com
In reply to Paul Saunders:
This might help.
www.ukclimbing.com/articles/glossary.html
Stevew
Paul Saunders on 03 Jun 2003 - m270-mp1.cvx2-a.man.dial.ntli.net
In reply to Steve Ward:

Thanks we'll standardise our definitions with this...
sutty on 03 Jun 2003
In reply to Paul Saunders:

registered 25/Apr/03

You MUST have seen the threads recently. I know where south of the peaks is me ducks and I am coming to get you;-)
Paul Saunders on 04 Jun 2003 - m112-mp1.cvx1-c.man.dial.ntli.net
In reply to sutty:

Did you just see my advice to rachel? Scarey.

Anyway I'm going to that picnic thing so you don't need to mug me at home just "sandbag me on stanage" ... what a cool route name gonna have to remember that one.
Wingnut - on 04 Jun 2003
In reply to Paul Saunders:
Just to further your education . . . :

Almscliff – Just overhanging enough to be annoying, while not overhanging enough to be spectacular. Hard on the arms, hence the name.
Burbage – To improvise in the face of disaster. “I had to burbage some prussik loops out of my shoelaces and the elastic off my pants”
Crafnant - a type of small semi-camming nut with a distinctive oval fish-piece and knurled wings. "There's a bomber Crafnant in that pocket"
Dumbarton – the classic flat-on-back pratfall resulting from slick rock shoes on wet grass.
Eastby – the classic navigational error in which the wrong end of the compass needle is lined up with the wrong place, the resultant bearing being 180 degrees out
Froggatt – the small downward bounce just before the giant upward dyno
Great Wanney – one who lets loose rock and absent protection become an excuse for not doing the route “Gerron up it you great wanney!”
Hardingstone - a particularly sling-eating chockstone. "We got the rope stuck in the hardingstone, and it took us four hours to get it out."
Ilkley - worryingly thin, to the point of non-existance "Watch me! It's a bit Ilkley up here!"
Jack Rock – to gently trundle small stones onto one’s belayer for the purpose of attracting his attention. “In dire need of slack, Angus was forced to jack rock onto the snoozing Gerald”.
Kepier - To make moves whose precise nature one cannot subsequently remember when queried by one’s second. "How the f*ck did you get up this?” ”Eh? You what? Oh, I dunno, I just sort of kepiered up it."
Lawrencefield – the area below the crag containing mud, sheep, and boulders which turn out both to be deficient in worthwile problems and be completely useless to bivvy under.
Markfield – the flood-prone boggy bit at the bottom of the campsite, to which the warden exiles school parties, boy scouts and anyone arriving after the pubs have shut
Nesscliffe – any crag which would be famous were it not for the vegetation, lack of height, lack of gear, lack of climbable rock, lack of any rock etc. “Finedon’s a bit of a nesscliffe, but it’s in the Leicester guide so there must be something there.”
Orme - an unattractive mixture of rain, mud and slime. "Eurrgh! This ledge's all covered in orme - and there's a dead pigeon on it!"
Pontesford – to climb on domestic objects when no more conventional climbing is available. Examples include the undersides of ladders, the outsides of bannisters and the world-famous pontesford ‘skirting-board traverse’ at 221a Pitt Street, Slough.
Quayfoot – the interesting effect of new rockshoes on sweaty feet. “Proudly sporting a new pair of Kamets, Will had a glorious case of green Quayfoot by the end of the evening”
Reiff – of ropes, to tangle deliberately in order to exasperate their owners. “Wilfred found that his grandson had left the rope covered in mud and badly reiffed”
Slipstones - the small rocks at the bottom of the crag that always cause more injuries than the actual climbing "I solo'd the route Ok, but I fell over a slipstone at the bottom and took all the skin off my knees"
Thrunton - The stone compound in which the campsite owner keeps the dustbins. "The bogs? Over there behind the thrunton."
Untitled Boulder – Got some excellent problems on it – a bold arete, a lovely smeary slab, a powerful dyno up the back. Unfortunately it is only six inches high and being used to hold the gate open.
Vivian – The green slime that turns out to be several inches deep on the crucial holds.
Wainstone - What looks like a nice solid chockstone but turns out not to be. "Sh*t! It's a f*cking wainstone! Watch me, this is f*cking desperate!"
Crag X – It’s on the map. It’s in the guide. So where the f*ck is it? It must be round here somewhere . . . is that it? No, we went past that bit half an hour ago . . .
Yarncliffe – a crag containing many easy short routes with good top belays, hence usually infested with topropes. “Burbage South’s a bit of a yarncliffe at weekends”
Zawn – the frantic scream of a beginner plummeting six inches onto a toprope.
johncoxmysteriously on 04 Jun 2003 - dewarhogan.demon.co.uk
In reply to Wingnut:

I normally hate those things, but that is superb!

WTF is a 'superflash', anyway?!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Wingnut - on 04 Jun 2003
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
A version of Flash that removes not only the stains, but the bath itself.


Well, you did ask!
TimB - on 04 Jun 2003
In reply to Wingnut:

the power of google compels you...

http://www.grumpie.nl/superflash.html

(well, it's either that or a message type used in the Vietnam war to bypass information bottlenecks)
Paul Saunders on 04 Jun 2003 - m341-mp1.cvx2-a.man.dial.ntli.net
In reply to Wingnut:

Cracking! I particularly liked the Northumberland references...

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