UKC

Hello there. I know there are some knowledgeable people on UKC when it comes to gear, so I was wondering if someone could offer me boot advice.

I am buying some new boots as I lost mine in an accident over the summer. I previously had Nepal Extremes (the old ones), which were top draw boots, apart from their weight. They weren't overly heavy (in fact I think they're meant to be one of the lighter ones), but when trying to get your feet really high (surmounting ledges etc.) you could certainly feel their weight. So my questions are:

1) Is there anything noticably lighter than the Nepals? (those mammut ones look good- can you buy them anywhere in the UK?)
2) Will there be a noticeable difference between a slightly lighter boot and nepals?
3) Will lighter boots (if worth it for the weight save) be so uncomfortably cold that I won't be able to climb anything? (I'm only thinking 3 pitch type routes in the Lakes mainly- so getting mega cold aint too much of a problem)
4) If there isn't anything better than the Nepals, has anyone ever made their own boots, based more on a rockshoe with spikes?

In reply to Franco Cookson:

the mammut mamook is available from outside and i'm sure various other shops if thats the one your on about. have heard good reports about them but not used them myself.


the lighter the better no doubt. the nepal evo's are slightly lighter and warmer.


nepal evos or even better in terms of weight would the scarpa jorasses.


you mean like comp boots? I use la sportiva mega evo's. there awesome for DT and continental mixed but I wouldnt fancy the walk-in to a lakeland crag with em! plus they aint that warm.

In reply to tom290483:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/scarpa-phantom-guide-vs-la-sportiva...

Also try the double-boots from the Zamberlan range.

Fruit boots are great, and some people have attached grivel racing crampons to rock shoes, which is also an option.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

yo, i'm currently using nepals and love em too ( apart from the weight)
i think from like VII + you would defenatly notice a difference having a lighter boot, my problem with going for lighter boots is that they are generally a lot more flexible and as im about 13 stone i find i lose too much support but i guess you weigh about the same as a twig so mabey wouldn't be so bothered?. Ive had a pair of trango extremes (until i destroyed them in moraine) which ignoring my problem with the flexibility were fantastic. super light and with a snug heel but still comfy for walk ins. still warm enough and all round a nice boot (fit wise a bit narrower than nepals. I haven't ever used them but pretty intrigued by the trango primes which look like a good balance between weight and support.
from what Ive herd about others

scarpa phantom guide/ultras- very good and light but bendy, expensive and wear out quickly
la sportiva baturas- again good and light, stiffer, but still expensive and wear out quickly.
Ive also herd good things about the phantom ultras and guides, but again they are pretty flexible, expensive and don't last very long! same with the baturas but they are a bit stiffer

In reply to Franco Cookson: kayland and Aku make a variety of boots which will noticeably outperform Old nepals. and yes you'll notice the difference.

Since you're planning to do a lot of climbing have some mind to thickness of the sole at the toe end. £80 a resole and if you take them to the alps and rock climb a fair bit you'll probably need to get them re-done at the end of the season.

you can try raichaille is fort bill, aku in perth. mammutin outside, not sure kayland stockists. depressingly getting under £300 notes is very hard

In reply to Franco Cookson:
I have used Scarpa Charmoz boots previously.I have found them to be fine,but I don't climb above IV/V.I am thinking of getting the Jorasses as they have the same last which fits my foot,but they are warmer.(Like a cross between Charmoz and Freney).This would suit better for doing stuff on Mt Blanc and a little higher.
Rob

In reply to Franco Cookson: My Trango's aren't quite as warm as my Nepal's but its not a huge difference but they are very nice to climb in. Mine are the uninsulated type (yellow, from a few years back http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2006/11/sunday-climbing-post-and-gear... ), the silver ones now have a bit of extra insulation. Noticeably lighter. Wear gaiters with them though, they are low so you'll quickly get snow in if not.

How did you manage to loose a pair of boots?

In reply to TobyA:

Ace, Some good things to be going on with there and I'll check out outside

And I had to ab off them on the grand cap when my chum got knocked out by some Ice.

In reply to Franco Cookson: The mammut Mamooks are an ok boot, light stiff , not very grippy on wet rock, phantom ultras are awesome, again light, little bit of flex which is nice in the walk in and über comfy i find, same with the trango extreme evos. Crampons on the ultras take some bending of the bail arm to get a good fit. Out of the 3 I find the ultras and trangos are nearly as warm as Nepal evos, but so much a nicer boot to wear/climb in. Hth

In reply to Franco Cookson: ow do franco,
I have the scarpa freney which you can usually find on deal somewhere. Feel light to me and i love em light enough for the autuminal scrambling sessions and the like. if your home for holidays you can give em a whirl which 3 pitch routes in the lakes are these then. mmmmmm

In reply to Franco Cookson:


Did you ab OFF the boots? As in, you used them as anchors? How do they compare to frozen marsbars?

In reply to Mr Lopez: Yeh, we ran out of gear and there was nothing to rap the rope round, so had no choice. F*cking scary! It was only slabby ground though, so I tried to get most of our weight through my feet. never abed of a marsbar, that sounds stupid.

And thanks Jas. They were the other boots I were after...

In reply to Franco Cookson:

I was using Baturas in Canada this year down to minus 30, feet were a wee bit cold on belays but otherwise they were great. Had a good sock routine! If I was standing still any longer, I would have suffered i reckon as I get cold feet easily. I used them for everyday use, long snow walks, with snowshoes, on skis, everything and I love them.

Climbing only W15 on a good day, they were really comfy, I didn't find them too heavy ( I suppose it also depends on what type of body you have, I'm 6ft3, 16 stone and I've never had a worry about how heavy my boots have been).

They are about 1.8 kilos for the pair which is about half a kilo lighter than the extremes
which i have never used. I have friends that have used them in the Himalayas guiding and swear by them.

Hope this helps, Den

In reply to Franco Cookson:
http://www.upandunder.co.uk/Outdoor/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/P---freney-xt-g...

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Wildest thing I've read in a while! Good job!

In reply to Franco Cookson:
Hey Frankie,

Lightweight boots are great, but obviously they won't last as long as Nepals. However they are much lighter and you should have much less tired legs at the end of the day.

There are lots lighter boots about. Things like Baturas and Phantom Guides are great but they are very expensive. They'd be great if you were thinking of doing spring/autumn alpine things - Eiger North Face and the like. But overkill for Lakes winter and summer alpine if you ask me.


When they're on your feet they'll feel lighter, especially if you are wearing Crampons. If you really want to push the boat out get a pair of Darts or G20s too... with your skinny frame you'll practically float up the routes!


You might get cold feet, but if they fit you properly (not too tight) you'll be fine. High quality socks make a massive difference. Teko ones are best in my expirence.

One thing I would look at before I bought any LW boots is the sole. Lots of models particularly silver sportiva Trangos have very thin soles. This causes two problems, they sole doesn't offer too much insulation and it will wear out pretty quickly.

(I'd avoid any boot which has a Vibram Sole that says "climbing zone" on the bottom of it. In my expirence they don't last very long.)

Scarpas version of the silver Sportiva Trango the Jorasses has a much thick more durable sole.

Knowing how you like to drive a hard bargain I'd go and see Woody at the Epicentre in Ambleside. You should be able to come to some sort of agreement!

Love Tom xx

In reply to Franco Cookson: I've got a pair of trangos and definitely like them, they aren't desperately warm but down to -15C is tolerable when standing about. The new trango primes (not sure if you can find them in the UK) are more insulated and looks like the family pets danglies. Scarpa Freney are similar but haven't tried them as they don't fit my feet.

Surprisingly enough my Scarpa Omegas feel less clunky and heavy than a pair of nepals and probably warmer

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Lol! I can imagine the face of whoever raps down that line finding all the gear.

- Oh look a #4 cam
- Oh look, another cam!
- Bingo, a #2 camalot!!
- Yay! A #3! If we find a #1 at next stance we'll have a full set.
- WTF????

Back on topic... If you are still down in Austria you should be able to find a pair of the Trango Ice Evo's. Amazing boot that's been discontinued, so probably some good deals about. Lighter, warmer, more waterproof and better for climbing than the Nepals.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Does that mean you walked back over the glacier in rock shoes?!