UKC

environmental impact of bolting vs trad

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graeme_haigh 05 Dec 2011
Bolting ethics debate aside, has anyone got any useful information on the environmental impact placing bolts can have apposed to placing gear?

Obviously placing bolts damages the rock and can lead in some cases to cracks etc. but does repeatadly placing gear and removing it have a similar effect by eroding the rock?

I hope this makes sense and it would be great if anyone could shead some light on it!
 Oceanrower 05 Dec 2011
In reply to graeme_haigh: I predict over 200 posts. And about 15 before it starts getting personal!
 Jiduvah 05 Dec 2011
In reply to Oceanrower: screw you
Well one of the main environmental impacts of bolting a route is that it makes a previously unclimbable wall, climbable, thus increasing the human traffic on it.
 Oceanrower 05 Dec 2011
In reply to Jiduvah: Feck off.
 thommi 05 Dec 2011
In reply to stroppygob: ay!!?
 Owain 05 Dec 2011
In reply to graeme_haigh: Trolling, can't beat it.
 mlmatt 06 Dec 2011
In reply to graeme_haigh:

Trolling aside. I'm going to assume that this is a genuine question.

Sadly I don't think that there is an empirical research done on how much damage occures in a localised area depending on whether the majroity of routes are trad or bolted. There seem to be too many variables.

However, you could look at some of the examples where bolting has increased public use of an area. The first one that springs to mind is back when the right wall in Dali's Hole was bolted, producing a bunch of low grade (and rather poor quality) sport routes. There was a real problem with massive groups of people climbing there which lead to access problems in one form or another for the rest of the slate quarries. Once the hangers had been removed there was much less traffic at the area. This example would seem to indicate that because of the bolting the environmental impact would have increased.

It would have been very interesting to see if a bunch of low grade trad routes had been produced whether there would have been such an icrease in use? Is it more to do with the grade of the route rather than the style in which the route is put up.

If you look at places like Birchen Edge, Windgather and other such small crags, with easy access to the top and bottom and with the majority of routes being low graded trad line there is alot of environmental impact. People have taken it upon themselves to remove loose rock, there are normally litter problems at such places. The gear placements are always worn there is footpath erosion at the base of such crag, at the tops and especially down heavily used areas like the descent gullies or walk-offs.

In contrast to this places with higher grade routes (either sport or trad) tend to be a little tidier reflecting the reduced number of people who climb there.

I would present that it isn't necessarily the style in which a crag is climbed but the average grade of the climbs there which determines the environmental impact of people on the crag.
 toad 06 Dec 2011
In reply to graeme_haigh:New Guidebooks probably do more damage to the crag environment.
 mlmatt 06 Dec 2011
In reply to toad:

Maybe there is a trade off between the time a new guidebook is released and how much people climb there. I'd expect that once a new book is released there is a flood of people to the specific crags in the guidebook for a few months but then it tails off and other guidebooks are released.
 Ramblin dave 06 Dec 2011
In reply to mlmatt: The Dali's Hole effect is partly down to the fact that there's very very little low grade sport in the UK, so any that anyone does put up is going to get mobbed. I don't think this is the same as saying "bolting increases traffic" because presumably if you bolted lots more places (that's not a suggestion...) then people who want to climb sport would congregate at the better sport venues and the crap ones would still be largely ignored.

To be honest, I think the only people who bolting really makes a big difference to are climbers. Environmental issues seem like a bit of a red herring next to "will lots of climbers now and in the future be pissed off".
 jimtitt 06 Dec 2011
In reply to graeme_haigh:

One of the most environmentally sensitive areas is the cliff-top edge which provides a relatively rare and unique habitat for both plants and animals, for this reason topping-out is generally prohibited in Germany and Austria and bolted lower-offs are the norm, even for trad routes.

There was (going to be) a study started on the relative impact of gear protected routes versus bolt protection regarding the environmental aspects of the rescue services but I donĀ“t think anything came of it, a study of Alpinism in this respect (as well as the normal services such as huts) would be interesting.
 GavinC 06 Dec 2011
In reply to mlmatt:

It's not just a matter of quantity of impact, its the quality: impact can be negative or positive. Increased footfall in an area can generate regional awareness and affection, thus promoting management and enhancement of the natural resources - paths, conservation strategy, facilities of all kinds.

If low / mid grade bolting increases the use and enjoyment of the countryside, then, properly managed, it will contribute to its 'cultural' value - protecting and enhancing it. Look at some of the popular but excellent crags in France - often family days out: Chateauvert/Correns, Dentelles, Fixin, etc. I accept the downside is that the site then needs management, it won't just 'happen' and that the activity itself becomes commercially more attractive - charging for use.


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