UKC

Shortest person to complete this crazy ass problem??????

In reply to jules699:

I've seen someone who is 5'7" do it half a dozen times in a row.

Dawes and Bransby have both done it. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1354.msg13189.html#msg13189

In reply to shark: Oooh having met the amazing Jonny at The Reach recentely he aint that tall so none of us have any excuse! ....I feel a peak trip coming on, lol.

In reply to jules699: 5' 7'' ? So maybe when I ( 5' 6'' ) was trying it i was just being optimistic?

In reply to jules699:

I'm 5' 3" and nowhere near! The traverse across the bottom is lovely though. More like pleasant climbing (though quite hard), than a ridiculous leap off nothing.

In reply to lanky_suction1:

There are rumours of a short person's beta, with higher feet. I haven't been able to try it out to confirm this though.

In reply to The_JT:

I think that is for the 5'6/ 5'7 'shorties'. As far as I know no-one shorter than that has done it (though I'm not sure of Jonny's height)

In reply to lanky_suction1:

Im 6ft 5 and still find this really hard. I cant seem to get enough height with the lanky beta (feet lower when you jump), and I dont fit the shorty beta (right foot high when you jump). Funny problem this, have fallen off it around 50 times now, one day....

In reply to jules699:

BTW have you tried the 'running' start? looks brilliant!

In reply to tallsop: No....interesting idea!

In reply to tallsop:

50 times is a snip for this, you can fall off hundreds of times and then one time it will all click.

In reply to jules699:

The description in the new Peak Bouldering Guide suggests a dyno for the finish of this problem and grades it 7B+ - I thought the grade was given for the static method (which I am unclear of what the beta is for it).

Can anyone clarify please?

Ta

In reply to hoodmonkey:

There is no static method. Watch you youtube/vimeo videos for beta.

In reply to cha1n:

I have seen film or stills of it done statically by a French chap 15-20 years ago.

In reply to lowersharpnose:

I've seen tens of people do it and nobody did it static. I've tried it myself and I think doing the last move static would be much harder than 7B+ for someone of average height.

If somebody did it static and gave it 7B+, I would guess that they'd be VERY tall.

In reply to lowersharpnose:

Marc le Menestrel did it static, but I wouldn't read too much into that other than him being awesome.

In reply to jules699:

Marc's a beast though! I was trying to make my first reply minimalistic.

What I meant was, there is no static method for the problem to go at 7B+ (for us of average height). I don't doubt that a few top climbers have done it static (or very tall people)..

In reply to:

I dont think theres a true static way. There's a 'slow' way but you still need to keep the momentum going through the move.

In reply to bentley's biceps:

I watched Marc le Menestrel's ascent, and it wasn't static. What was impressive was that it was his first attempt, and he came up with the method whilst on the problem - ie completely onsight. I don't think its had any other flashes.

The move is less wild than the original jump, and you can maintain two points of contact throughout, but its not static.

In reply to Adam Long: He is god-like for sure.

Was the 'basket ball player's' running jump flash just a rural myth then?

In reply to jules699:

I've seen many ascents of it using the dynamic method and am familiar with the beta, however, the following quote from Peak District Bouldering made me think there was some kind of static rock over move or something -

Deliverance (7B+)

Current rating: 4.8/5
1
2
3
4
5

Current guidebook grade: 7B+ (soft)

Description: Climb the centre of the wall, via the single hold. Graded for the static method.

In reply to hoodmonkey:

Some people refer to it as the static method, but as has been explained, it's not really. I've changed the decsription on the website now. Here's a video showing the 7B+ method - vimeo.com/20042184.

The low feet method is anywhere from 6B to impossible depending on height and skill, but mostly on height.

In reply to jules699:

Thanks for the clarification and video post, much appreciated.