UKC

Did a dynamic move yesterday off a pinch (after being warmed up!) that resulted in an pop/crack/click noise in right ring finger. It was v painfull but I was able to boulder a tiny bit more with it taped. Its still stiff BUT no swelling. I'm on the neurofen but as it didnt swell can I assume it might not be too serious? Its in the middle of the finger. Cant quite ascertain if its the knuckle joint and/or tendon...

In reply to jules699: (Looking again there is some sweilling but not much.)

In reply to jules699: Damaged one of my finger tendons about 6 months back and im only just being able to get in to easy climbing again, never got any noticeable swelling (apart from stiff ache, which is inflammation of the joints) and still had full range of movement.

My advice would be to rest it for 4 week's minimum and then take things easy. If id of done the same initially id prob of been back to climbing properly long ago.

In reply to Chalk: Noooooooooooooooooo!!!!! I have a font trip booked for end of next month!

In reply to jules699: If I heard a pop/crack but there is no "bow string" and I can move it ok does this mean its not a rupture/tear Still some pain at full flextion but practically no swelling.

In reply to jules699: sounds like a partial rupture of one of the pulleys. bit of gristle that attaches the tendon to the finger bone. These heal slowly and often incompletly

need to drop a grade and tape it. will take 4-6 months to regain anything like full strength.Tape it from now till then and possibly long term.

if you carry on regardless and blow it completely you may be out for more like 4-6 months . (Dr and one careful owner of a partially ruptured a3 pulley on the left ring finger!)

In reply to jules699: Would agree with rurp, if it was a full rupture you'd prob have bowstringing and not much Rom.

But a partial rupture, can soon turn to a full rupture if you don't let it heal properly.

Once the inflammation and swelling has gone down try ice baths and theraputty to aid recovery. There's some decent info on Dave Mcleods blog about pulley injuries.

In reply to rurp: OK. Good advice. Thank you.

In reply to jules699:

Just back from a Font trip with an injury. It was OK once I realised I could have a good time just doing slabby problems.

In reply to jules699:

I believe there is some good advice and information about pulley injuries on Dave Macleod's blog in the online climbing coach section. Well worth reading as I think its fair to say he knows what he's talking about.