UKC

Off to North Wales on Sunday. I expect the weather will be crappy.
I'm looking for back up plans really. I've got Reade's Route down as one to do if it's not raining too much. Does anyone have any ideas for an easy climb into a good walk? I thought Ordinary Route up Idwal and then off to Tryfan. Or perhaps 1st Pinnacle Route and then off Tryfan towards Idwal.
Any other ideas?
Two of us climbing. Getting back into climbing after a year off each, so V Diff ish grade.

In reply to fijibaby: Something on Craig Cwm Silyn, as its the edge of Snowdonia it can often escape the rain.. Outside Edge Vdiff and Original route? Diff are the two easy classics.. then off along Nantlle Ridge..

In reply to fijibaby: Here's a cracker for you.
Ogwen Cottage:
1. Gribbin Facet - Monolith Crack - Sev
Walk to over to Gylder Fach cliff
2. Chasm Route - VD.

Then you're pretty much on top of Fach.

Read the descriptions as they're not everyones cup of tea ), but I'd prefer these than an exposed wet Ordinary Route.

In reply to fijibaby: Hi

try the routes on little tryfan, or failing that a trip to holyhead mountain would be worth a try. it can wet be dry when the mountain routes are wet

In reply to fijibaby: I've had 'Flying Buttress' and 'Spiral Stairs' in the Pass both suggested. That and 'Charity' on Idwal.
I hate climbing in the rain, but it looks as though it's going to be the best chance I get at climbing this month, so there we are.

In reply to fijibaby:

I know it's not really climbing but snakes and ladders and tunnels is an excellent wet weather alternative.

In reply to Winterbotty:

Monolith Crack...now there's a route

Enjoyed it twice, way back when. Once wet, once dry - both times entertaining.

I also watched a mate who was cruising E3 at the time have a go at this. Sunglasses and snoopy t-shirt didn't last long and his smooth attempt soon reverted to good old fashioned "traditional" climbing - punctuated by much grunting and swearing.

To the OP - a great suggestion by Winterbotty, especially the advice to do some research. This type of climbing is not everyone's thing (some people just don't have a sense of tradition...)

Whatever you end up doing, hope you have a good time

I

In reply to Ianto Bach:

Monolith crack is very size dependent isn't it. I remember having a look at it 15years ago and I couldn't get my chest in. Of course that may be that I just felt claustrophobic and used it as an excuse. Now I almost certainly couldn't get in if it was tight before.

In reply to fijibaby:
Perhaps consider a day's scrambling if it's properly wet. Saves carrying kit, and keeps you moving! Could do the following from one of the ogwen lay-bys.
Car
Little gully/north ridge Tryfan
Bristly Ridge Glyder Fach
Along the plateau and down Senior's ridge
Up Cneifon arete
Down gribin
Back to car.

Could be lengthened (it's only a half day loop really) by going back up tryfan after descending the gribin and then down whichever of north ridge/little gully you didn't go up. I just think that a day's scrambling in the wet would be more worthwhile for people who haven't done much climbing recently.

In reply to tjhare1: Good suggestion! I hadn't really considered scrambles but that really makes sense.
I'll look it up.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Traditional climbing was what I was raised on. Bowline round the waist and never the option of turning back! So I'll take a look at the more grubby options.

In reply to fijibaby:

Lockwoods Chimney is always a good wet weather jolly if you are in that area. It's been a while so perhaps my memory has "adjusted" the experience. Definitely another traditional day out. Anyone with recent info on this classic?

In reply to fijibaby: remember the easier popular routes like the Slabs can be very polished in the dry, never mind when it's wet and greasy

In reply to toad:

The scramble off the top is riskier than the slabs. We've been up them with snow in the corners and a film of melt water running over the whole lot and had plenty of friction.

In reply to EZ: I suppose ability helps. When I've climbed in the wet I look like Wile. E. Coyote just after he's run off the cliff - helpless windmilling legs just before the looong drop to the canyon floor

In reply to toad:

Oi! That's no way to talk about my cousin Wile. E.

In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Haha meep meep

In reply to fijibaby: Don't underestimate Reade's route, quite serious for VDif especially in wet conditions. Some of those old pioneering routes pack a bit of a punch, same goes for anything on Llwydd.

Reade's Route is "sporting", whatever the grade. I don't remember placing any gear above the cam at the "step".

In reply to fijibaby:
If Ordinary Route on Idwal has queues (which it did when we went to climb it in torrential rain a couple of years ago) then you could scramble up to do Cneifion Arete instead.or do it after Ordinary Route.

Two of my other best wet weather days were Lockwoods Chimney, and Bryants Gully.

In reply to EZ:

Monolith Crack is about HVS up the outside on the top section when dry. There is also a nice bypass out round the arete on the right.

No way would you catch me trying to climb it in the wet. Wide cracks are a speciality of mine and the second cleft is hard enough friction udging when dry (HS at least). I also don't fit through the top cleft but I did try hard, unlike Moff who gets a bit claustrophobic.

In reply to caradoc:

No it doesnt, Slanting Buttress isnt too bad in the wet on LLiwedd.

In reply to fijibaby: The sun always shines in Tremadog even if it is hacking it down in Capel Curig. Also Hollyhead is a good place to run in the rain.

In reply to EZ and fijibaby:

Seconded a most excellent wet weather day out! Video here if interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Quo5Uhnv_Rk&feature=plcp

In reply to EeeByGum: We were up north a few weeks ago, rain was so bad we were heading down to The Rock in Harlech for a bit of indoor comfort, and yes, the sun was shining in Tremadog... if you're looking for a vdiff you can't go wrong with Boo Boo

In reply to Offwidth: You're right about Slanting Buttress but I was thinking of the main face above heather terrace where the holds seem to slope downwards.

In reply to fijibaby:
Something on the Gribin Facet, Monolith Crack perhaps. followed by a trudge up into the Cwm for Cniefion Arete followed by a walk to the summit. Lockwoods is ok in the rain, do all the pitches though, it's quite a challenge in the wet. Some of the routes above Betws y Coed are very do-able in wet weather but don't lead into a walk.

In reply to Toreador: Lockwoods Chimney was apparently what my Dad's climbing mates used to do "after they'd had a few". This was in the 60's though, when that sort of thing was OK.
He took me up it once, and I think they had a point. More like caving than climbing!

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Excellent. But clearly not a climbing video... The music was appropriate :-O

And that just didn't show what an epic struggle the chain is. Those pipes come as such a relief.

In reply to EZ:

Thanks dude! Yep the snake is a bit of a battle but all good fun and games, especially as slate is so grippy in the wet...