UKC

Hey everyone. Always fancied do a bit of DWS. Where are some good places in the UK to start DWS on grades in the Severe band? Cheers,

Ed

In reply to eddzzz:

There's a good selection at the grade in Torbay. The Long Traverse 4+ is the classic expedition but lots more beside. The prevailing wind is SW so the sea conditions tend to be more friendly.

In reply to eddzzz:

Gads, you'd need to clime with a wetsuit in this country.

In reply to eddzzz: You will not find many DWS routes at Severe, the Torbay area (already mentioned) which features a number of long traverses is your best bet, be warned though that a Sport grade of 4+ is more like VS than S in Trad money. Generally rock has to be vertical or overhanging for DWS to be safe, so grades tend to be higher than Severe - you do not want to be hitting ledges if you fall off.
Aside from Torbay you will find some good starter DWS routes on Aquanaut Buttress at Swanage, several of these are probably around HS in standard, although like most DWS they are given Sport Grades. An abseil is required to gain access a good ledge above the climbs.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8231
Temporary Lifestyle situated East of the Lighthouse at Portland is another relatively amenable classic at HS,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13911
the Red Crane Traverse nearby is technically a little harder, but less intimidating as you are never high above the drink.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13887

In reply to Chris Duddy:
No you don't, pick a warm day in August/ September. It's awesome.

In reply to eddzzz:

Don't need a wetsuit but you need to get on something a bit harder to make it a bit safer...

Jb.

In reply to eddzzz: Portland has some good DWS routes, especially around the lighthouse. Durdle Door is the best DWS in our area though.

In reply to eddzzz:

Forgot to mention Coastguard Cliff at Berry Head. Loads of short stuff there, some given trad grades but actually far more fun (and probably safer) as DWS. S 4a equates to 3+ roughly.

In reply to eddzzz: First climbing I ever did was DWS in Torquay. Went to London Bridge and did pt. 1 of the Watchtower traverse, pt. 2 of the 5* traverse, a couple of the Duck named routes and then fell off trying to get on Freddie the Frog hits Torquay. Plenty to get your teeth into but make sure you're happy with falling first - take a couple of jumps to get used to it.

If you get over to the Long Traverse at Anstey's Cove, you can then climb Midget Gem at Long Quarry - a great entry level DWS (5+?) where the climb to it is probably harder than the route. There's also a 4+ish route that climbs the right face of the Blowhole pinnacle there and takes you close to the really wild DWS routes in that area - feels very high at that grade but good for an inmtroduction.

Dpon't fall in and it's not cold.

In reply to eddzzz: Reckon you could try DWS at almost any crag in the UK at present

In reply to David Staples:
Has Durdle Door got any 'easy' DWS, I thought it was mostly in the 7s, with the easier stuff being at Stair Hole (The Maypole etc.)?

In reply to eddzzz:
Is Cliffhanger now running DWS?

In reply to Reach>Talent: The only in the guide book are hard 6's and 7's but they are on the back of the arch and falling off these would not to be plesent as you would have to try and miss the belay ledge on the way down

However there are loads you can do on the under and front side of the arch that are quite easy. Though you wont find them in any book at the moment. I made a couple of routes up last summer that were probably hard 5's.

Stair Hole has some easy ones as well.

Portland rockfax book has some good DWS routes in it.