UKC

I have a shunt for self lining but i hear that petzl now don't recomend it for self lining. I have tried my ropman and a grigri but none of them are as good as the shunt. u can back up the the shunt with a ropeman on another rope but apperently the drag is terrible. is the shunt really that dodgey. i have seen a guy use one on Right Wall on the Cromlec in the pass and he was not phased.

In reply to captainfire576: The shunt is fine, as is the mini traxion which Petzl do reckon is ok for self belay.

In reply to captainfire576:
I have loads of friends that use a shunt for self belying.

The mini traction is scary to use as a self belay as it has teeth.

In reply to captainfire576:

Compared to an ISC Rocker or DMM Buddy (which are both twice the price!), a Shunt is fairly dodgy for self lining.

Shunts are not particularly safe in that the pressed body can fail under fairly moderate forces but neither are they particularly dangerous.

It all depends what you consider is an acceptable risk.

It is worth bearing in mind that what recreational climbers (like the one you saw on Right Wall) consider a perfectly acceptable risk may be around 100x riskier than what would be considered acceptable for a work environment which is what guides Petzl and other manufacturers when they produce their guidance.

In reply to captainfire576: I have tried a grigri and a ropeman as well. the shunt seems to be smoothest, the ropeman has scary teeth and i am worried about sheath damage and the grigri doesn't run too well and often needs feeding manually and u have all the falling upsidown worries. Petzl don't really recomend anything and advise u need second back up rope with another divice ie jumar or micro traxion. they also seem to think a Basic ascender would be the prefered option. u would think with the internet and the moon landings someone should be able to sort this out! lol. i also take the point about acceptable risk. no one has a backup rope when the second jumars up the pitches on El Cap. i guess it's practicality vs risk.

In reply to captainfire576: the ISC Rocker looks quite good. has anyone used one of these?

In reply to The Ex-Engineer: that is a good point

Are you looking for Fall Prevention or Fall Arrest ?

What about using a route setting type setup ?

In reply to Scott_vzr: fall arrest on real rock ie climbing not setting

In reply to captainfire576:

DMM Buddy ?

Free following etc

I would be wary of the rope diameters. The Grigri two is sensitive to rope diameters and slightly worn ropes. If you set it up for bottom belaying and pull the climber rope end sometimes with certain diameters it pulls through. It is only supposed to be used for a finite range.

In reply to Scott_vzr:

From PETZL - For 8.9 to 11 mm single ropes (optimized for 9.4 mm to 10.3 mm ropes)

In reply to Scott_vzr: mmm... not fully up top speed on the rocker or the buddy but the rocker seems better

In reply to Scott_vzr: not looking to lead on it. got a silent partner for that and if u think the shunt is scary, the sp is mind blowing lol

In reply to captainfire576: I have used the ISC Rocker as well as Shunt and Mini Traxion and find them all pretty able. You can pick a Rocker up on Ebay for washers.

In reply to the weegy: cool will check it out

In reply to the weegy: hopefully not second hand though lol

In reply to captainfire576:

This may also make the decision more informed.

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing...

In reply to Scott_vzr: thanx 4 that. i have seen it before but was looking for it again. u see my dilema lol